**Detailed, Customisable, and highly posable.**
Whilst this wolf has been inspired by Moro of Princess Mononoke, you can easily switch her twin-tails out for a single one, and repaint her to look like any other species of wolf-like canine!

Choose from a solid tail, a flexible "print in place" tail, or a pair of them!

**Important Information**
If you use the raw STL files, this model requires additional steps before printing can start. Please see below for details.
Raw STL files do not come with paint data; only the Bambu Studio 3MF files have painting data on them, and this 3mf may not open in other slicers.

**SUPPORTS ARE REQUIRED.**
See below for an image showing the ideal support set-up. Auto-supports are safe to use as long as “Touching Buildplate Only” is turned ON.
support-information.png
- You can find an instructions card in pictures and attachments for the model, which will help you set up your own supports should the 3MF be faulty in your slicer, or if you use the raw STLs.
- While the shorter forearms (as seen in my samples) are provided, they are VERY stiff to insert and are not recommended; please use the default ones provided.
- If you find the ball and socket joints too difficult to insert, run them under warm water before trying again; if you force the joints too much they may break.
- The joints will wear out over time and use if printed using PLA filament; I recommend using a more durable filament for this model, such as ABS or even TPU. Silk/Blend PLA is not recommended.
- The larger the model becomes, the heavier it gets. if printing the model or bigger, expect it to be unable to hold some poses without support.
- Do not lower the infill density below 10%; this increases the chances of joints snapping when you insert the ball into the socket.
- Infill pattern does not matter, use whichever pattern suits your taste, though the 3MF patterns are set to “Grid” by default.
- Do not print the model too small; the size I have provided is the safest small size I tested to print it.
See the card in attachments for the easiest method for assembly.
See the range of motion in the video!

-Q&A-
Please see the questions below before asking any in the comments; your answer may be here already.

-I want to sell prints of this model. Is this allowed?-
Not without paying for the right to do so. The fee on this model is for private printing use. If you wish to sell prints of this model, you must subscribe to the “Commercial License" tier of my Patreon and can only sell prints for the period you subscribe for, so if you pay for a month and then cancel, you only have a License for one month. The “Free membership” plans do not cover paid-for models: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards/membership

-I want to remix this model. Is this allowed?-
You can only remix this model for private use. You cannot upload your remix or any model you have made that uses any of this model's parts.

-How long does it take to print this model?-
This depends on 4 things; your printer's speed, the model's size, if it uses multiple colours, and if you're printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.
My examples are usually printed on a BambuLab X1C.
The wolf takes around 12 to 14 hours to print.
Printing the model as loose parts and assembling it is highly recommended for the full-colour version, as it drastically reduces the number of colour changes and any resulting waste. It also means you don't have to leave your machine running for over 24 hours to make one of these models.

-How large is this model?-
If printed at the provided size it is approximately 16cm long from snout to base of the hips. The tails vary in length by a few cm each, but are around 10cm long.
The model, when standing, is approximately 10cm tall.

-What materials/colours are used in your examples?-
I used PLA filament from various companies.
BambuLab Matte PLA White and Black, PLA Granite. eSun Matte PLA Pink.

-Will it fit on my printer?-
This depends on 2 things; how large your printer is, and if you are printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.
Most printers have a print space of 250x250mm and can print this model with almost everything on a single plate.
Tiny printers such as the A1 Mini have a printing space of 180x180mm which can print the model as clusters of parts perfectly fine, though you may be unable to print everything on one plate.

-I'm having issues with adhesion. What would you suggest?-
A majority of adhesion issues are user-end problems and are not associated with the model itself. There are numerous things you can do to troubleshoot your adhesion issues.
First, establish if your printing plate is clean; gently clean it with dish soap and warm water, and dry it with a clean cloth. Try not to touch the surface of the plate, as the natural oils in our skin will contaminate the surface, making it dirty again; hold the plate in the corners or in areas you won't be printing on.
If the plate is clean, and you still have adhesion problems, and you are using a smooth plate, you could try applying glue to it. However, only use glue recommended by your plate's manufacturer.
If the plate surface is damaged in any way, you should consider replacing it; the surface should be free of scratches or deep marks.
Try printing with a brim or levelling your hotbed.
Try a different style of plate; if you used a textured PEI, why not have a go on a smooth plate?
The material you are using might be too wet; dry out your filament before printing with it again, or try another type of material.
If your nozzle is over-extruding, it can “pull” the model from the plate during printing, making it seem like an adhesion issue when in reality, it's an extrusion issue. Ensure your nozzle isn't over-extruding filament.
You may want to investigate if your machine's firmware needs updating, or if there is a known fault with your machine/plate type.
Once all user-end problems have been ruled out as the issue for adhesion, THEN you can ask me to help.

-The model messed up. Can you help?-
I need to know HOW it has “messed up”, and WHERE in the model it has “messed up”, before troubleshooting anything. If you provide no details to me, I can't help you.

-The model broke when I touched it. What happened?-
Anything could have happened, it depends on numerous user-end factors.
Don't “rip” your models from the plate when they are done, even if you saw some YouTuber do it; this guarantees you'll eventually break a model, often a result of putting unnecessary strain on joints/links as you rip the model off the plate. Study proper model removal procedures, such as “flexing” your plate at all four corners to help lift the model from its surface, and gently use a scraper to get under any stubborn parts.
Don't print the model too small; chain links and the socket joints become more delicate the smaller they become.
Don't print using a brittle filament. Whilst I print all my items in PLA and PLA+, and the parts hold up fine, if you want something guaranteed to be stronger I recommend giving ABS a try.
Double-check your printer's layer settings, and ensure the nozzle is clean; it may have skipped a layer, or the nozzle may have had a clog and failed to extrude part of a layer. Bad layer adhesion can cause weak joints/links on all models.
If a socket joint broke when inserting a ball joint, double-check you orientated the socket joints as shown in the pictures. If orientated correctly, and all support material is removed from the ball and socket, the joints shouldn't break.
If you add additional walls to the model it makes the model thicker, resulting in parts fusing or the balls will no longer fit in the sockets. Do not add additional walls.
The infill density must not be set too low, as it will weaken the model. I print mine at no less than 10%.

-Something else went wrong/I have a question that wasn't answered here.-
Read the instructions first if you haven't already, then please provide your issue in the comments. If you require my help, please be clear and precise about what went wrong.
If you have another question, please leave it in the comments and I will do my best to answer it.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Mystical Moro Wolf Toy

balljointed-wolf.3mf

My own design of Metal Sonic has been sculpted with various details, such as vents, bolts, screws, and numerous other plate or joint patterns. Most details show up even at 0.20mm layer height!

The model's feet bank sideways, allowing you to pose him on uneven surfaces.
Print the model large enough, and you can use articulated fingers; choose from two-digits or three-digits for your thumbs and fingers!

**Go big, or go small!**
Metal Sonic comes with pre-painted 3MF files optimised for full colour printing on the BambuLab X1C, in both a small and large size. The raw STL files provided are all sized appropriately to match the “Large” size.Please be aware that RAW STL files do not have paint data on them, and that the 3MF may not open outside Bambu Studio.

**Important Information**
- If using the 3MF files, please be aware that the head requires 5 colours; If you only have 4 AMS slots, I recommend assigning the RED colour (eyes) to the YELLOW colour (ears) and manually change your spool to yellow once the red portion of the eyes has finished.
- If you use the raw STL files, this model requires additional steps before printing can start. Please see below for details.
- Raw STL files do not come with paint data; only the Bambu Studio 3MF files have painting data on them.

**SUPPORTS ARE REQUIRED.**
You can find an instructions card for the model in the pictures, which will help you set up your own supports should the 3MF be faulty in your slicer, or if you use the raw STLs.
- The articulated hands with fingers are NOT recommended on the small size; scale all the parts up if you want to use them on a size smaller than the "LARGE".
- If you find the ball and socket joints too difficult to insert, run them under warm water before trying again; if you force the joints too much they may break.
- The joints will wear out over time and use if printed using PLA filament; I recommend using a more durable filament for this model. Silk/Blend PLA is not recommended.
- Whilst provided in 0.20mm in the 3MF, this is only suitable for the small model. Layer heights of 0.20mm or 0.24mm are not advised for the large size, as it can weaken the model.
- The larger the model becomes, the heavier it gets, which means it cannot keep its arms up. if printing the LARGE model or bigger, expect it to be unable to hold some poses without support.
- Do not lower the infill density below 10%; this increases the chances of joints snapping when you insert the ball into the socket.
- Infill pattern does not matter, use whichever pattern suits your taste, though the 3MF patterns are set to “Grid” by default.
- Do not print the model too small; the SMALL size I have provided in 3MF is the safest small size I tested to print it.

**Q&A**
Please see the questions below before asking any in the comments; your answer may be here already.

**I want to sell prints of this model. Is this allowed?**
Not without paying for the right to do so. The fee on this model is for private printing use. If you wish to sell prints of this model, you must subscribe to the “Commercial License" tier of my Patreon and can only sell prints for the period you subscribe for. “Free membership” plans do not cover paid-for models: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards/membership

**I want to remix this model. Is this allowed?**
You can only remix this model for private use. You cannot upload your remix or any model you have made that uses any of this model's parts.

**How long does it take to print this model?**
This depends on 4 things; your printer's speed, the model's size, if it uses multiple colours, and if you're printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.
My examples were printed on a BambuLab X1C. The models were printed as loose parts on multiple plates and assembled afterwards.
The large full-colour took about 31 hours.
The smaller flat colour took around 10 hours.
The smaller full-colour was around 18 hours.
Printing the model as loose parts and assembling it is highly recommended for the full-colour version, as it drastically reduces the number of colour changes and any resulting waste. It also means you don't have to leave your machine running for over 24 hours to make one of these models.

**How large is this model?**
If printed at the recommended small size, he stands at roughly 15 ½ cm.
If printed at the large size, which is the same as the raw STLs, he stands at around 28 ½ cm.

**What materials/colours are used in your examples?**
I used PLA filament from various companies for these examples.
Flat Colours: Gratkit tri-colour (silver, copper, gold)
Full Colours (SMALL): BambuLab Metal Black, Matte Lemon Yellow. 3DTomorrow Galaxy Blue. Eryone Sparkle Red. The silver was unbranded.
Full Colours (LARGE): BambuLab Matte Black, Scarlet Red, Lemon Yellow. Prusament Silver Blend, Royal Blue Blend.

**Will it fit on my printer?**
This depends on 2 things; how large your printer is, and if you are printing everything on one plate or as loose parts.
Most printers have a print space of 250x250mm and can print this model even at the larger size without making any changes to it. (If making it bigger or smaller, be sure to scale everything at the same time to ensure all parts fit when assembled).
Tiny printers such as the A1 Mini have a printing space of 180x180mm which can print the SMALL model perfectly fine. However, if printing the LARGE, you will need to adjust everything to print either individually, or as close as possible to one another.

**I'm having issues with adhesion. What would you suggest?**
A majority of adhesion issues are user-end problems and are not associated with the model itself. There are numerous things you can do to troubleshoot your adhesion issues.
First, establish if your printing plate is clean; gently clean it with dish soap and warm water, and dry it with a clean cloth. Try not to touch the surface of the plate, as the natural oils in our skin will contaminate the surface, making it dirty again; hold the plate in the corners or in areas you won't be printing on.
If the plate is clean, and you still have adhesion problems, and you are using a smooth plate, you could try applying glue to it. However, only use glue recommended by your plate's manufacturer.
If the plate surface is damaged in any way, you should consider replacing it; the surface should be free of scratches or deep marks.
Try printing with a brim or levelling your hotbed.
Try a different style of plate; if you used a textured PEI, why not have a go on a smooth plate?
The material you are using might be too wet; dry out your filament before printing with it again, or try another type of material.
If your nozzle is over-extruding, it can “pull” the model from the plate during printing, making it seem like an adhesion issue when in reality, it's an extrusion issue. Ensure your nozzle isn't over-extruding filament.
You may want to investigate if your machine's firmware needs updating, or if there is a known fault with your machine/plate type.
Once all user-end problems have been ruled out as the issue for adhesion, THEN you can ask me to help.

**The model messed up. Can you help?**
I need to know HOW it has “messed up”, and WHERE in the model it has “messed up”, before troubleshooting anything. If you provide no details to me, I can't help you.

**The model broke when I touched it. What happened?**
Anything could have happened, it depends on numerous user-end factors.
Don't “rip” your models from the plate when they are done, even if you saw some YouTuber do it; this guarantees you'll eventually break a model, often a result of putting unnecessary strain on joints/links as you rip the model off the plate. Study proper model removal procedures, such as “flexing” your plate at all four corners to help lift the model from its surface, and gently use a scraper to get under any stubborn parts.
Don't print the model too small; chain links and the socket joints become more delicate the smaller they become.
Don't print using a brittle filament. Whilst I print all my items in PLA and PLA+, and the parts hold up fine, if you want something guaranteed to be stronger I recommend giving ABS a try.
Double-check your printer's layer settings, and ensure the nozzle is clean; it may have skipped a layer, or the nozzle may have had a clog and failed to extrude part of a layer. Bad layer adhesion can cause weak joints/links on all models.
If a socket joint broke when inserting a ball joint, double-check you orientated the socket joints as shown in the pictures. If orientated correctly, and all support material is removed from the ball and socket, the joints shouldn't break.
If you add additional walls to the model it makes the model thicker, resulting in parts fusing or the balls will no longer fit in the sockets. Do not add additional walls.
The infill density must not be set too low, as it will weaken the model. I print mine at no less than 10%.

**Something else went wrong/I have a question that wasn't answered here.**
Read the instructions first if you haven't already, then please provide your issue in the comments. If you require my help, please be clear and precise about what went wrong.
If you have another question, please leave it in the comments and I will do my best to answer it.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Metal Sonic Toy

metalsonic-Articulated-Hands.stl

The Leopard Gecko is articulated with 18 joints. The feet hinge up and down slightly, the forearms swivel side to side, and the rest of the body parts can move up, down, left, or right.

The file named "SMALL" is the smallest suggested size to print the model, to maintain the arms' movability. The hands do not move very well at this small size.
You can print it bigger than the “LARGE” file for a greater range of movement, though it loses its cute charm the bigger it gets.

This model includes the following: SMALL.stl, LARGE.stl, and both sizes are provided in a .3mf for those who use BambuLab Studio, to print in multicolour. **This 3mf may NOT open in other slicers; RAW STLs do not contain paint data.**

The range of movement can be seen in the video.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Leopard Gecko Toy

flexi-leopardgecko-LARGE.stl

This cute little Axolotl is articulated with 18 joints. The feet hinge up and down slightly, the forearms swivel side to side, and the rest of the body parts can move up, down, left, or right.

The file named "SMALL" is the smallest suggested size to print the model, to maintain the arms' movability. The hands do not move very well at this small size.
You can print it bigger than the “LARGE” file for a greater range of movement, though it loses its cute charm the bigger it gets.

My examples are printed using a BambuLab X1C, using a freshly glued cool plate, in a wide range of PLA filaments. You may have to adjust the Bambu Studio 3MF depending on your machine, as it is optimised for multicolour printing on the X1C.

This model includes the following: SMALL.stl, LARGE.stl, and both sizes are provided in .3mf for those who use BambuLab Studio to print in multicolour.** This 3mf may NOT open in other slicers; RAW STLs do not contain colour data.**
The range of movement can be seen in the video.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Axolotl Toy

flexi-axolotyl-LARGE.stl

VERSION 2 OF KOHAKU IS NOW AVAILABLE. THIS VERSION NO LONGER RECEIVES UPDATES.

Grab the model from the following pages:
https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/66f6b2e5c3bc2dd50dc78f31?source=6
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/articulated-kohaku-river-spirit-dragon-toy-v2


**NOTE: The 3MF was made using Bambu Studio and is the only file with paint data on it, so this file may not open in other slicers.**

This Kohaku model comes in two sizes; short, and long. The short dragon has 14 joints down its body, the long has 25 joints.

The whiskers are just strips of filament that I have glued into the holes on the side of the muzzle, a filament size of 1.75mm fits in the holes nicely.

Due to the limit of 4 colours, the pupils are not black. A dab of acrylic or permanent marker works fine.

I printed mine without a brim; providing your hotbed is clean/freshly glued, you shouldn't need a brim either.

Supports are not needed, so don't print it with any or you'll end up wasting filament and risk damaging the joints when removing supports. If you are having issues with the toes/claws not printing well, do the following:

Turn supports ON.
Set the type to “normal(manual)”.
Set style to “snug”.
Tick the box for “touching buildplate only”.
Paint the base of the palm/fingers/toes in support paint mode.
This way only supports are generated on the hands, and not anywhere else.

You can add another two segments to the LONG version tail and neck to make it longer, but due to limited space on the hotbed, I wouldn't make the model itself larger. I wouldn't print it any smaller as the joints will likely lose strength.

The joints can move in almost all directions. The arms and legs do not move.

You can see the range of movement in the video. 

This file covers PERSONAL use. If you want to sell prints of this model, please subscribe to the "Commercial License" tier on my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Kohaku River Spirit Dragon Toy

River-Spirit-Dragon-LONGTaperedTail.stl

River-Spirit-Dragon-SHORTTaperedTail.stl

River-Spirit-Dragon-TaperedTail.3mf

Please note that the 3MF files were made in Bambu Studio and may not open in other slicers. Use the RAW STL files if you're unsure if the 3MF will open. 
Be aware that the RAW STLs have not been cut up to fit on the hotplate, and will be missing the large holes for threading the straps, so you will have to do those things yourself, as I don't have time to do them.

**These masks were designed for you to paint and customise! **
Print them in matte filament for best painting results, colouring this way will blend better with any other features you put on the mask. For example; you could stick paper leaves or string vine designs down the antlers, sculpt ivy around the face with air-dry clay, or dab on some fake moss to the antlers to give it that “old woodland” look. It's your mask, make it look how you want it to!

With the Year of the Dragon (wood element) around the corner, I decided to make masks to celebrate. Fae are spirits in my country, usually found in forests with large pointed ears, so I mashed them together with a Dragon to create these masks.

Rather than uploading each elemental dragon mask separately, I am bundling them into this one profile. You can choose a Wood Fae (antlers) and a Water Fae (horns).

---Wearing the mask---

Holes for threading straps are found on the sides, below the ears. If you don't want to use these large holes, simply delete the “negative part” in Bambu Studio. 
A set of concealed holes can be found on the back of the ear base, where you'd find the default holes; these holes were added just in case you want to thread more straps for a better fit, or if you did not want visible holes on the mask exterior. They do, however, only take 1 to 1.5mm cords whilst the large holes can fit up to around 10mm thick cords. The thicker the cord/strap, the better.
The mask was sculpted over a standard styrofoam mannequin head model (https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/mannequin-head-full-size). This size fits all four of my family members, but the ears can make it a bit tight on those with a wide front temple. This mask fits children or smaller people best.

---Print Set-up---

Assembly is required. Due to the size of the masks, they are split into 3 sections: face, ear/horn left, and ear/horn right. They are attached via plugs. If the plugs do not fit, I recommend sanding them and trying them again. I would also advise you to glue them together to ensure they don't come off.

**Supports are required to print these masks**; without them, the mask will not print well, if at all.

Turn supports ON.
Set the type to “normal - Auto”.
Set the style to “Snug”.
The threshold angle should be unchanged (the default is 30).
Tick the “on build plate only” box.
If you don't want to use the narrow supports for the muzzle, simply use “normal - manual” type and paint a larger area on the muzzle like the below picture (the default supports haven't broken for me, but every printer is different)


Using a brim is optional, but is highly recommended, as the mask profile is narrow it is at risk of coming off the hotbed without the brim. The horns/ears should not need a brim at all, but it's safe to still use them.

 

This file is for PERSONAL use. To sell prints of the masks, please join the "COmmercial License" tier of my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Year of the Dragon Masquerade Masks

wood-dragon-mask.3mf

river-dragon-mask.3mf

fae-dragon-masks.stl

There are two different price displays: Stand and Hanger. The text of the cards is 3D for that added visual flare.

**Stand**
This price stand lets you slide up to 3 symbols into the base. You can orientate it up (tall side) or lay it down for convenience, though laying it down means you cannot slide in the cards all the way, but you can rest them in the slot.

**Hanger**
This version lets you hang the prices on metal mesh racks. I would not recommend using them on string or other fabric-based lines.
3 versions support for 3 characters, 4 characters, and 5 characters.

**Sadly all paint data only displays in Bambu Studio when using the provided 3MF; this file does not open in any other slicer.**

I have provided a plate and STL for the Euro, Dollar, Riyal, Afghani, Yen, Won, Rupee, and Pound symbols. Use whichever suits your needs best. Also, I have included some creature emoji as well to add more decorative flair to your price stand. I have also included some new cards with this file that can label your items as “each” or “for #number”.

You can use these printed stands to display prices in a quirky way on your trading table, or garage sale stands! (Just don't sell the prints of them!)

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
 If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Price Cards with Stands + Hangers

hanging-prices.stl

hanging-prices-extracards.stl

Price-Stands.3mf

pricings.stl

pricings-2.3mf

pricings-extratags.stl

flexi-axolotyl-full-colour.3mf

flexi-axolotyl-SMALL.stl

I'm an artist and author of various mediums and styles. I have two websites: one for 3D models, and another for other projects.

For other projects please visit http://www.zuperbuu.com
For 3D models please visit allmeshedup.square.site

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Pinned models

Articulated Kohaku River Spirit Dragon Toy

Year of the Dragon Masquerade Masks

Price Cards with Stands + Hangers

Articulated Axolotl Toy

Articulated Mystical Moro Wolf Toy

Articulated Metal Sonic Toy

Articulated Leopard Gecko Toy

Articulated Axolotl Toy