NOTE: The dragons are not included! You can find them both in my collection of models to purchase.

These stands have been designed to work with my "Version 2" articulated dragons. 
They come in 3 bend styles and 2 heights.

The curves have been made to support the width of my Dragons links when printed at the largest size I provide them in. If you made the dragons smaller, they should still fit, but the "hooks" won't likely reach them to hold them in place on the steeper bends.

**PETG IS STRONGLY ADVISED.
PLA filament breaks too easily on the bends, as they are thin.**

On the S curve and C curve, some hooks are present to hold links in place, so they do not slide off the stands. As these are made to fit my Version 2 dragons, I cannot guarantee anyone else's dragon designs will fit them.

You can mix and match the different stand heights and bend styles to pose your dragon in a wide range of ways, however, be aware that the hooks on the S curve style are intended for supporting the head and neck so they may not fit if using it backwards, for an uplifted tail for example.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Stands for V2 Articulated Dragons

Standsv3_CrealityPrint.3mf

**IMPORTANT! SUPPORTS ARE REQUIRED. A brim is also recommended due to the nature of the support layout. Supports are required on the arms to help the socket-joint to print properly.**

This model is based on the Warden from Minecraft; it has simple ball-jointing on the arms, legs, and head. The joints don't move up or down very well due to the blocky nature of the design and serve only for rotation.

There is a full-colour version, which I have tried to optimise the flush volumes of to reduce waste, but it is still a filament-eater. I have provided a flat colour option too, if you'd rather paint him yourself.

If you'd rather not use supports on the main body, simply lower the body into the plate before printing. Doing this tells the slicer to remove the back ribs/spine, and any supports that were needed before will be removed.

**The 3MF was made in Bambu Studio, so all paint data will not show up when imported into other slicers. If you only want the support data, I recommend the PRUSA 3MF.**

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

The Warden Articulated Toy

warden-G.stl

This little keyring is based on my larger Articulated Shenron v1 model. It has some articulation, but the legs do not move, and the neck doesn't move either due to the addition of whiskers.

I would not print it any smaller than the provided file. I also would not use it on items that go in a pocket or a bag. It's best used on the outside of a bag.

**Only the 3MF has the "negative part" to make this a keyring; otherwise, it's just a smaller version of the Shenron v1 toy with built-in whiskers. RAW STLs also do not have paint data on them, and the 3MF may not open outside Bambu Studio.**

If you'd rather not have it as a keyring, simply delete the negative cylinder part as shown in the picture, and you're good to go!

I printed mine without a brim, but if you have adhesion issues, I would suggest using one.

**Supports are not needed for 99% of this model; do not use them or the model can break when you remove it from the supports!**

HOWEVER; I have painted supports on the whiskers, as they float from the hotbed and would fail to print without them. Do not change the support settings, or you'll lose the manual painting I did. If for some reason the supports aren't there, or you're using the RAW STL, you can paint them yourself; just make sure it looks similar to the image and you should be good.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Little Shenron Keyring

dragon-keyrings.stl

This little keyring is based on my larger Articulated Kohaku River Spirit model. It has some articulation, but the legs do not move, and the neck doesn't move either due to the addition of whiskers.

I would not print it any smaller than the provided file. I also would not use it on items that go in a pocket or a bag. It's best used on the outside of a bag.

I have optimised the 3MF for printing on the BambuLab X1C; it can print up to 5 keyrings at the same time and generates the same waste as if you only printed 3. See the video of 5 being printed at the same time:

Due to the limit of 4 colours, the pupils are not black. A dab of acrylic or permanent marker works fine.

**Only the 3MF has the "negative part" to make this a keyring; otherwise, it's just a smaller version of the Articulated Kohaku Toy with built-in whiskers. RAW STLs also do not have paint data on them, and the 3MF may not open outside Bambu Studio.**

If you'd rather not have it as a keyring, simply delete the negative cylinder part as shown in the picture, and you're good to go!
(both Kohaku and Shenron have the hole in the same place)

I printed mine without a brim, but if you have adhesion issues, I would suggest using one.
Supports are not needed on this model; do not use them or the model can break when you remove it from the supports!

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Little Kohaku Keyring

dragon-keyrings-2.stl

**IMPORTANT: The Dragons are not included.**
These stands are a complete rework of the ones I made for Patreon, which are still included with the old Articulated Dragon STL files.

The poles have been made slimmer with a flat resting area, as most dragons are print-in-place with flat underbellies.

There are three lengths; small, medium, and large. Note that the longer/taller the pole gets, the more fragile it becomes.

I printed mine in PLA but I recommend using a stronger filament if your dragon is long or heavy. I also did not need a brim on any of them during printing.

**3 base types are available.**
**Plain** is for you to lay out your stands however you want, but because they are individual they do not have additional base support, so may tip over if the dragon is long or heavy. I recommend the loose base for aiding dragons that can stand up, like my Articulated Aku Dragon.

**Curved** is made for your dragon to “fly” with. You can slot whichever stand height you want into the base slots, so they can fly low, or fly high, it's really up to you!

**Swirled** is for your dragon to fly up or down with; you can have them wrap around for a take-off or a landing!

Both Swirled and Curved have been designed to look like rocky terrain.

The poles slot into the holes in each base. I have tried putting as many holes as I can into the Swirled and Curved bases without ruining the base design.
As there are hundreds of different dragon models out there, in different shapes and sizes, I can not guarantee the poles will fit every single one. They do fit my dragons, but I am sure with some experimenting with the different pole heights you'll find something that works for anyone else's dragons too.

**Please be aware that the 3MF was made in Bambu Studio and may not open in other slicers. Please use the PRUSA 3MF or RAW STLs if this is the case.**

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Stands & Bases for Articulated Dragons

PRUSA-dragonstands-poles-plainbase.3mf

**Raw STL's do not have paint data or support data attached to them. The 3MF files provided have them, but the coloured file only opens in Bambu Studio. The PRUSA 3MF only has support data.**

This model is a complete rework of my old Cubone Toy, which for some reason I had not shared outside of MakerWorld (the old model is no longer available).
Part of the model is print-in-place (the tail and body), whilst other parts require you to snap joints together (head and arms).

As the model prints upright, the arms and head must be printed loose. A benefit of this is that they now make use of ball-and-socket joints, which give them better movement options than the old chainlinks they once used. 

The ball joints are shallow so that the arms can be popped out easily, to interchange them, and reduce the chance of the ball breaking in the socket. If you want the arms to stay in forever, use glue.

A groove has been added to the bone club, which will help stick the club into either hand with the aid of glue. Due to the thickness of the hand, my original method of making a peg-joint would compromise its strength. So, I would advise supergluing the bone to the hand, or using the arm that has the bone already attached. This method, however, means you'll need a multicolour printer to make the bone a different colour.

**To snap the helmet onto the head,** first align the “horns” of the head with the widest portion of the skull base, then apply pressure until the horns are inserted. The rest of the head should pop right in behind them. Once the helmet is on it may not come off.

**IMPORTANT! Supports and brim are needed on this model.**

If printing on a Textured PEI plate, a brim is strongly recommended on all parts. **Please be aware that printing with brims or supports on the head will cover the socket joint hole, so carefully remove this covering with pliers. _The head does have a hole!_**

A brim is advised on the bone regardless of what plate you use, otherwise, it is likely to be dragged off the hotplate should too much filament extrude onto it.

The helmet now requires a brim and supports to ensure it prints cleanly (the horns no longer print with a flat defect). The arms require support to print correctly.
So long as “only touching buildplate” is checked on your support generator, you should be good.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
 If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Cubone Toy

cubone.stl

**The 3MF was made in Bambu Studio, and will only open in the latest version of Prusa Slicer, but will not retain any paint data. If you want the paint data, please use Bambu Studio. Use the RAW STL files for other slicers.**

Ancient Marvels in Miniature: 3D Print Dinosaur Fossil Skull Magnets!

Step back in time with this meticulously crafted collection of 3D-printed dinosaur fossil magnets. Each captures the essence of prehistoric life, bringing iconic skulls to your fridge or other metallic surfaces.
The skulls are modelled from photographs or scans of real fossils!

🦴 Intricate Detail: From the fearsome T. rex to the elegant Velociraptor, every skull is a testament to precision. Delicate ridges, hollow eye sockets, and serrated teeth— I've designed these magnets faithfully to replicate the fossilized remains.
🔍 Educational Delight: Whether adorning your fridge or classroom board, these magnets spark curiosity. Designed as a relief, you can feel the contours of each skull.
🏡 Home Decor with a Twist: Forget mundane magnets; these fossils add character to any space. Arrange them on a magnetic board, and create a palaeontologist’s corner!
🤩 Conversations Starter: Brace yourself for exclamations like “Is that a Velociraptor?” or “I loved Jurassic Park!” These magnets will bridge generations, inviting stories and igniting fascination.
🌎 A Journey Through Eras: Display a mix of Triceratops, Allosaurus, and Pteranodon—each a chapter in Earth’s history. Invite wonder and celebrate the resilience of life across epochs.

Whether you’re a dino enthusiast, a science teacher, or simply someone who appreciates the ancient, these 3D-printed magnets will add a charm of the prehistoric to your living or working environment! 🌿🌏✨

The magnet size for the back is 18mm x 5mm. You can see them here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09PTZQFQ2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title.

Superglue is required to keep the magnets in place.
Supports are only needed for the magnet-hole.
You can print these larger and make a hook for them, to make wall-plaquards instead!

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
 If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Dinosaur Fossil Skull Magnets

allo-magnet.3mf

NOTE: The 3MF file was made in Bambu Studio and may not open in other slicers. Please use the RAW STLs if this is the case for you.

The duo of Triceratops and Styracosaurus are articulated with 13 joints. The body parts can move up, down, left, or right. See the below video for their range of movement.

The Stegosaurus and Ankylosaurus seen in the video are exclusives to my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards/shop/flexi-stegosaurus-ankylosaurus-48733?source=storefront

You can print them smaller, but for best results print at the provided size. You can print them bigger for a greater range of movement, and at a higher quality to see all the details in the models better.

Do not print them with supports; they do not need them, and can damage the model when you try removing it from the supports! Brims should not be needed either.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Ceratopsian Toys

flexi-trike.stl

**If you want to use other slicing software, please use the raw STLs when importing into your slicer, as the Bambu Studio one does not work outside Bambu Studio. Please be aware that only the Bambu Studio 3MF has paint data on them.**

These articulated snakes have 36 joints, though at the scale I have provided there is plenty of room for more links, should you want to add them!

All body links, except the one closest to the tail-tip, and the rattle, are identical so you can copy/paste them to make the body longer.

The size I have provided is the largest I could make the full-colour version before printing time became too long. Be aware that bleeding can occur if your filament has additional qualities to it (such as sparkle glitter).

If you use a textured PEI plate, a brim is needed.

Whilst supports are NOT needed on the Rattlesnake/Ekans, I recommend using supports on the "head" portion of the Cobra/Arbok, as it is tall. Do not use supports anywhere else.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Ekans and Arbok Snake Toys

arbok.stl

This series of files consists of a full 8x8 Chessboard, which can be assembled via the four individual parts. RAW STL files have no paint data on them, and the painted Chessboard only open in Bambu Studio.

It's a battle between Team Herbivore and Team Carnivore, which have a dinosaur design for all the regular chess pieces.
**Pawns: Velociraptor and Parasaurolophus
Knights: Dilophosaurus and Triceratops
Bishops: Carnotaurtus and Pachycephalosaurus
Castles: Volcano and Mountain
Kings: T.Rex and Stegosaurus
Queens: Spinosaurus and Ankylosaurus**

Please note that, at the provided printing size, this set is small and has been designed for travel/pop-up use. I recommend printing the chess pieces larger to see the details better, as at the provided size some details can become lost, in which you will need to scale up the storage container too. 

A brim should only be needed on a Textured PEI plate for the chess pieces, but only if an attempt printing without one ends in failure.

For use of other slicers, outside of Bambu Studio, please use the raw STLs.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Portable Dinosaur-themed Chess Set + Container

carnivore-chess.stl

This money box/piggybank, when printed at the provided size, can output coins of 2.5cm diameter at the base but can devour coins of 3 to 4cm diameter.

The coins are inserted into the mouth and can be removed by unscrewing the cap at the base or tipping the piggybank forwards for coins to come out of the mouth.

**The 3MF was made in Bambu Studio and may not open in other slicers.**

- Supports are required on this model. 
- The Ankylosaurus and Stegosaurus are not included and are in my model store.
- Use the “tree” support style, and don't use any brims.
- Printing it larger is always recommended. Do not print it any smaller unless the coins you intend to use are small.
- I recommend printing it with matte filaments as it shows the scale details better and is easier to paint on.
- Whilst a solid version of the model is provided, to reduce the amount of scarring from supports, I advise using the “chopped” version.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

T.Rex Moneybox

rexy-moneybox.stl

There are two different price displays: Stand and Hanger. The text of the cards is 3D for that added visual flare.

**Stand**
This price stand lets you slide up to 3 symbols into the base. You can orientate it up (tall side) or lay it down for convenience, though laying it down means you cannot slide in the cards all the way, but you can rest them in the slot.

**Hanger**
This version lets you hang the prices on metal mesh racks. I would not recommend using them on string or other fabric-based lines.
3 versions support for 3 characters, 4 characters, and 5 characters.

**Sadly all paint data only displays in Bambu Studio when using the provided 3MF; this file does not open in any other slicer.**

I have provided a plate and STL for the Euro, Dollar, Riyal, Afghani, Yen, Won, Rupee, and Pound symbols. Use whichever suits your needs best. Also, I have included some creature emoji as well to add more decorative flair to your price stand. I have also included some new cards with this file that can label your items as “each” or “for #number”.

You can use these printed stands to display prices in a quirky way on your trading table, or garage sale stands! (Just don't sell the prints of them!)

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute without attribution. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is allowed but again providing attribution is required.
 If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Price Cards with Stands + Hangers

pricings.stl

IMPORTANT! Please read the description carefully before printing. The 3MF was made using Bambu Studio and may not open in other slicers, and is the only file with paint data.

- You will need to use a brim if you use a Textured PEI plate in an enclosed printer otherwise parts will fail to stick.
- Using a Cool Plate with gluestick, you do not need a brim. I recommend this option over a Textured PEI plate.
- Superglue is recommended if you use the beard, as it can slip out of the slot if you need to sand the insertion bit.
- The long limbs are a loose option I have provided for those who want them. I would recommend just using the shorter ones.
- The hands/forearms of the MINI Aku do not move even if they look like they should. This size guides those who want to shrink the original two options. MINI is the smallest the model can print before detail gets lost on the face and the shoulder joints start losing strength.
- No supports are required for this model, even if your slicer says it needs them. The _ONLY_ component that needs support is the beard.
 
**Behold! The Master of Darkness! And no pesky Samurai!**

The Shogun of Sorrow is articulated with 12 limb joints and up to 30 body links on his longest size.
He doesn't stand up on his own, due to his long body, but he is my most flexible dragon so far!

This model, being so large, can be a filament eater. The short version is my recommendation.
I have tried to modify the purge settings on the Bambu Studio 3mf so that he doesn't eat additional filament in colour changes, but if the red you use has a strong dye in it, you may get bleeding when the white parts print.

He looks great with or without the beard. It's provided in the optional parts if you choose to use it. Aside from adding supports for the beard, and using a brim if printing on a textured pei plate, no additional set-up is required for this model.

This file covers PERSONAL use. If you want to sell prints of this model, please join the "Commercial License" tier of my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Aku Dragon Toy

aku.stl

Please note that the 3MF files were made in Bambu Studio and may not open in other slicers. Use the RAW STL files if you're unsure if the 3MF will open. 
Be aware that the RAW STLs have not been cut up to fit on the hotplate, and will be missing the large holes for threading the straps, so you will have to do those things yourself, as I don't have time to do them.

**These masks were designed for you to paint and customise! **
Print them in matte filament for best painting results, colouring this way will blend better with any other features you put on the mask. For example; you could stick paper leaves or string vine designs down the antlers, sculpt ivy around the face with air-dry clay, or dab on some fake moss to the antlers to give it that “old woodland” look. It's your mask, make it look how you want it to!

With the Year of the Dragon (wood element) around the corner, I decided to make masks to celebrate. Fae are spirits in my country, usually found in forests with large pointed ears, so I mashed them together with a Dragon to create these masks.

Rather than uploading each elemental dragon mask separately, I am bundling them into this one profile. You can choose a Wood Fae (antlers) and a Water Fae (horns).

---Wearing the mask---

Holes for threading straps are found on the sides, below the ears. If you don't want to use these large holes, simply delete the “negative part” in Bambu Studio. 
A set of concealed holes can be found on the back of the ear base, where you'd find the default holes; these holes were added just in case you want to thread more straps for a better fit, or if you did not want visible holes on the mask exterior. They do, however, only take 1 to 1.5mm cords whilst the large holes can fit up to around 10mm thick cords. The thicker the cord/strap, the better.
The mask was sculpted over a standard styrofoam mannequin head model (https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/mannequin-head-full-size). This size fits all four of my family members, but the ears can make it a bit tight on those with a wide front temple. This mask fits children or smaller people best.

---Print Set-up---

Assembly is required. Due to the size of the masks, they are split into 3 sections: face, ear/horn left, and ear/horn right. They are attached via plugs. If the plugs do not fit, I recommend sanding them and trying them again. I would also advise you to glue them together to ensure they don't come off.

**Supports are required to print these masks**; without them, the mask will not print well, if at all.

Turn supports ON.
Set the type to “normal - Auto”.
Set the style to “Snug”.
The threshold angle should be unchanged (the default is 30).
Tick the “on build plate only” box.
If you don't want to use the narrow supports for the muzzle, simply use “normal - manual” type and paint a larger area on the muzzle like the below picture (the default supports haven't broken for me, but every printer is different)


Using a brim is optional, but is highly recommended, as the mask profile is narrow it is at risk of coming off the hotbed without the brim. The horns/ears should not need a brim at all, but it's safe to still use them.

 

This file is for PERSONAL use. To sell prints of the masks, please join the "COmmercial License" tier of my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Year of the Dragon Masquerade Masks

fae-dragon-masks.stl

This Chameleon is articulated with 21 joints. The body parts can move up, down, left, or right. Forearms move side-to-side, arms move in all directions, and hands can move up and down. 

The 3MF files were made in Bambu Studio and may not open in all slicers. I recommend using the STL file if you are unsure if your slicer will open the 3MF.

You can print it smaller, but for best results print it at the provided size. You can print it bigger for a greater range of movement, and at a higher quality to see all the details in the model better. 

I print it without a brim in PLA just fine. So long as your hotbed is clean/freshly glued you shouldn't have any issues. 

**Do not print it with supports**; it does not need them, and can damage the model when you try removing it from the supports!

The range of movement can be seen in the video. 

This file covers PERSONAL printing use. If you would like to sell prints, please join the "Commerical License" tier of my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Chameleon Toy

flexi_chameleon.stl

VERSION 2 OF KOHAKU IS NOW AVAILABLE. THIS VERSION NO LONGER RECEIVES UPDATES.

Grab the model from the following pages:
https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/66f6b2e5c3bc2dd50dc78f31?source=6
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/articulated-kohaku-river-spirit-dragon-toy-v2


**NOTE: The 3MF was made using Bambu Studio and is the only file with paint data on it, so this file may not open in other slicers.**

This Kohaku model comes in two sizes; short, and long. The short dragon has 14 joints down its body, the long has 25 joints.

The whiskers are just strips of filament that I have glued into the holes on the side of the muzzle, a filament size of 1.75mm fits in the holes nicely.

Due to the limit of 4 colours, the pupils are not black. A dab of acrylic or permanent marker works fine.

I printed mine without a brim; providing your hotbed is clean/freshly glued, you shouldn't need a brim either.

Supports are not needed, so don't print it with any or you'll end up wasting filament and risk damaging the joints when removing supports. If you are having issues with the toes/claws not printing well, do the following:

Turn supports ON.
Set the type to “normal(manual)”.
Set style to “snug”.
Tick the box for “touching buildplate only”.
Paint the base of the palm/fingers/toes in support paint mode.
This way only supports are generated on the hands, and not anywhere else.

You can add another two segments to the LONG version tail and neck to make it longer, but due to limited space on the hotbed, I wouldn't make the model itself larger. I wouldn't print it any smaller as the joints will likely lose strength.

The joints can move in almost all directions. The arms and legs do not move.

You can see the range of movement in the video. 

This file covers PERSONAL use. If you want to sell prints of this model, please subscribe to the "Commercial License" tier on my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Kohaku River Spirit Dragon Toy

River-Spirit-Dragon-TaperedTail.3mf

VERSION 2 OF SHENRON IS A SEPERATE FILE. THIS VERSION NO LONGER RECEIVES UPDATES.

--What's Changed in V2?--
Version 2 has been made from scratch, with improved link design, greater detail, and more accurate source material features.

The model will be for sale ONLY and can be found on the following pages:
https://www.printables.com/@zuperbuu_1527797
https://cults3d.com/en/users/zuperbuu/3d-models
https://www.crealitycloud.com/user-profile/1399948366

**The 3MF is the only file with paint data on it, and it will only open in Bambu Studio (the software it was made on.)**

**IMPORTANT:** If you use a P1S/P1P and experience issues printing the top of the head, please configure the print profile speed to 80mm for the outer wall, and give the model 3 walls.

If you use the Textured PEI plate, a brim is necessary regardless of what machine you use. A brim is not needed if you use the Cool Plate in an enclosed machine, that has a stable temperature.
This Shenron model comes in two sizes; short, and long. The short dragon has 12 joints down its body, the long has a whopping 31 joints!

The whiskers are just strips of filament that I have glued into the holes on the side of the muzzle, a filament size of 1.75mm fits in the holes nicely.

I printed mine without a brim; providing your hotbed is clean/freshly glued, you shouldn't need a brim either. Supports are not needed for this model; do not use them or the model can break when you remove it from the supports!

Be aware that the long version of the model gets VERY close to the plate edges, so you won't be able to make this model any larger. I wouldn't print it any smaller as the joints will likely lose strength.

The joints can move in almost all directions, though the hips have the least movement. The arms and legs do not move.

You can see the range of movement in the video.

This file covers PERSONAL use. If you want to sell prints of this model, please subscribe to the "Commercial License" on my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Shenron Dragon Toy

shenron-long.stl

Printed using PLA on an X1C with Cool Plate; using these parameters, a brim and supports are not needed. Glue on the cool plate is still recommended.
Baby Smaug is articulated with 18 joints.

The body parts can move up, down, left, or right. The wings and forearms can only move from side to side.

You can print him smaller, but for best results print at the provided size. You can print it bigger for a greater range of movement, and at a higher quality to see all the details in the model better.

The range of movement is similar to the Axolotl: https://youtube.com/shorts/vtFoYjRUSQc

This file covers PERSONAL printing use. If you would like to sell prints, please sign up to the "Commercial License" on my Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards/

Articulated Baby Smaug Dragon Toy

flexi-babySmaug.stl

River-Spirit-Dragon-LONGTaperedTail.stl

River-Spirit-Dragon-SHORTTaperedTail.stl

wood-dragon-mask.3mf

river-dragon-mask.3mf

hanging-prices.stl

hanging-prices-extracards.stl

Price-Stands.3mf

pricings-2.3mf

pricings-extratags.stl

This cute little Axolotl is articulated with 18 joints. The feet hinge up and down slightly, the forearms swivel side to side, and the rest of the body parts can move up, down, left, or right.

The file named "SMALL" is the smallest suggested size to print the model, to maintain the arms' movability. The hands do not move very well at this small size.
You can print it bigger than the “LARGE” file for a greater range of movement, though it loses its cute charm the bigger it gets.

My examples are printed using a BambuLab X1C, using a freshly glued cool plate, in a wide range of PLA filaments. You may have to adjust the Bambu Studio 3MF depending on your machine, as it is optimised for multicolour printing on the X1C.

This model includes the following: SMALL.stl, LARGE.stl, and both sizes are provided in .3mf for those who use BambuLab Studio to print in multicolour.** This 3mf may NOT open in other slicers; RAW STLs do not contain colour data.**
The range of movement can be seen in the video.

This file covers personal, non-commercial use; do not share or redistribute. Do not sell the files or prints of the files. Remixing is not allowed.
If you want to sell prints of this model, please visit my Patreon to learn how to obtain a Commercial License: https://www.patreon.com/thomastedwards

Articulated Axolotl Toy

flexi-axolotyl-full-colour.3mf

flexi-axolotyl-LARGE.stl

flexi-axolotyl-SMALL.stl

I'm an artist and author of various mediums and styles. I have two websites: one for 3D models, and another for other projects.

For other projects please visit http://www.zuperbuu.com
For 3D models please visit allmeshedup.square.site

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