A minimalistic, geometric, mathematical representation of a swallow. Prints in two parts that are glued together. No supports, just a fine layer height might improve the result...
Happy printing!

W!LD Swallow

swallow_l.stl

swallow_r.stl

A minimalistic, geometric, mathematical representation of a sparrow. Prints in two parts that are glued together. No supports needed, just a fine layer height might improve the result.
Happy printing!

W!LD Sparrow

sparrow_6_l.stl

sparrow_6_r.stl

**Design**
This is an advanced version of our original nologo!SKATE spool holder with some advanced features you might find useful! Since we are really printing a lot and mostly with big spools we were always skeptical of mounting the spools to the printer's frame since the movement (especially when retracting) induces some movement and vibration into the printer. Besides that our sometimes very long print durations also require a reliably setup ensuring safe operation with spools falling / jumping of, etc. Therefore we developed our own spool holder design and have been using it extensively on our printers for quite some time.

We have added a filament inlet that prevents the spool from jumping off the spool holder as well as an attachment for a reverse Bowden tube connecting directly to you filament inlet at the printer plus another option to very simply have slipping and sliding prevented.

Besides the printed parts you will (optionally) need the following parts:

4 pcs. 608 ball bearings (22 x 7 mm with 8mm bore, which you can get from Amazon)
1 pcs. PTFE tube 10 cm (in case you want to use the self securing functionality preventing the spool from jumping off)
1 pcs. PTFE tube of the length required to connect from the spool holder to you printer (in case you want to use the reverse Bowden functionality)
2 pcs. simply and standard rubber bands

The spool holder does also function without any of the additional features with just the printed parts.

**Construction**
The spool holder consists of two body parts which are connected by the slide part, which lets you adjust the different width of different spools. The left body part has two holes connected by a duct. On each end a piece of PTFE Bowden tube can be inserted.

The one on the short side receives a short piece of PTFE tube and is the filament inlet. By guiding the filament into and through the spool holder the spool itself is prevented from jumping off the spool holder since any tension or pull on the filament goes vertically straight towards the spool holder (actually a “reverse reverse Bowden”)

The one on the long sides receives the long piece of PTFE tube and connects to the filament inlet on your printer. This reverse Bowden prevents any pull on the filament holder when feeding filament into the printer. So you can literally place your spool holder anywhere around and in any direction towards your printer. Just be aware that PTFE tubes are very smooth but do still have some friction. The longer the connection tube gets the more friction it has and that might adverse effects on filament feeding if it gets too long.

Four plugs attach the ball bearings (or their printed replacement) to the two body parts.

The oval grooves at the bottom side of the body parts receive and hold the rubber bands in place to prevent slipping and sliding.

**Slicing & Printing**
The parts are design to be primarily printed with a 0.4mm nozzle and 4 perimeters (for a little added stability).

We suggest printing the two body parts standing upright with manual supports on just the edges of the opening for the slide. Please do not print with automatically generated supports since these would also fill the duct (which does not need supports) for the PTFE tubes and render it unusable.

Besides that everything should just print like a charm.

**Assembly**
Once printed you simply mount the ball bearings (or their printed replacement with a little grease) with the plugs.
Slide the slide part through the right body part and fix it in the left body part with a few drops of glue.
As such the spool holder does already work and if you want to use the added functionality you can now insert the two PTFE tubes and fix it with just on drop of glue on the outside if you will (not necessarily required).
Finally hook the rubber bands in the grooves at the bottom and you are done. These steps are also shown in the pics and will assist you and setting up your durable and reliable SL!DE.

SL!DE Spoolholder

nologo_design_skate_ball_bearing_replacement.stl

nologo_design_skate_body_r.stl

nologo_design_skate_body_l.stl

nologo_design_skate_plug.stl

nologo_design_skate_slide.stl

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling), less is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an half an hour / under 15 minutes with input shaping) and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 0 - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case

minimal_zero_2_case_01_wo_cooling.stl

minimal_zero_2_case_01_wo_cooling.stp

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