Our M!N!MAL case for all the Raspberry PI's out there...

M!N!MAL Raspberry PI Cases

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 5 in the version with cooling. Since the guys a Raspberry did such a great job providing a perfect cooling fan / heatsink for the Pi 5 there is no more need for any fan mounts (like on our models for the Pi 0, 3 and 4). So this case provides enough space for the Pi5 with the Raspberry Pi Active Cooler. Since the cooler is very small you will find  two versions of the case, one that provides just the space needed but has the Ethernet and USB sockets still looking out of the case (the 'slim' version) and one going up the full height, covering Ethernet and USB ports (the 'full' version).
Like all its predecessors it is still a foldable, print in place housing with live hinges that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour), fold and use it…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI,...) and the fan if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will then contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface and fan openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 4 bottom / 5 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 5 CH - Raspberry Pi 5 Case

pi_5_case_w_cooling_slim.stl

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 5 in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling and heatsink), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset Pin,...) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will than contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 5 - Raspberry Pi 5 Case

pi_5_case_wo_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 4 in the version with cooling, providing space for a 25mm fan and / or a heatsink, (we have another model that is without cooling), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) and the fan mount (snap in without screws) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will then contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface and fan openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 4 bottom / 5 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 4 CH - Raspberry Pi 4 Case

pi_4_case_w_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 4 in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling and heatsink), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will than contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 4 - Raspberry Pi 4 Case

pi_4_case_wo_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 3 in the version with cooling, providing space for a 25mm fan and / or a heatsink, (we have another model that is without cooling), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an hour) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) and the fan mount (snap in without screws) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will then contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface and fan openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 4 bottom / 5 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 3 CH - Raspberry Pi 3 Case

pi_3_case_w_cooling.stl

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi 3 in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling and heatsink), less than that is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an half an hour / under 15 minutes with input shaping) and use…
The design does consist of a frame and the top and bottom shells, which do have subparts that can provide openings to all interfaces on the board (GPIO, DSI, CSI, Reset, Pin) if removed from the part before printing.
The shell itself can be printed without perimeters and top / bottom layers, just infill, and will than contribute to maximize the airflow.

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.
Once the part is imported you can split it into parts (or even objects if you do not move it) and manipulate / delete the interface openings as well as the shell infill.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

(Not only) for opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

If you want the airy top and bottom shell you just have to (after splitting into parts) set the top and bottom layers as well as the perimeter count to 0. We had the best results with an infill of 40% with cubic, gyroid or rectelinear infill since these provide enough stability for the shall and many other available patterns do not make sense here since they disintegrate without perimeters and bottom / top layers.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 3 - Raspberry Pi 3 Case

pi_3_case_wo_cooling.stp

A minimal, foldable print in place, housing for the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 or Banana Pi M2 with cooling and heatsink.

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) or the Banana Pi M2 in the version with cooling and heatsink. Especially the Banana Pi M2 should definitely be used with  heatsink and cooling since it runs a lot hotter than the Raspberry. For the Raspberry we also have cases without or with just cooling that have a smaller form factor. Besides the cooling these smaller ones will not work for the Banana Pi since the preinstalled GPIO pins require a bigger case anyway. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. There is a clip in for a 25mm fan without screws. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) are rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP along the STL file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The parts prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

- For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.
- The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.
In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
First you need to connect the fan to the Raspberry, probably by soldering the cables to the board or the GPIO pins (in case you need to find out which ones just google Raspberry or Banana Pi pinout). Please note that the cables have to be connected from the top (see pics) and that the soldering spot on the bottom side is as small as possible. There is a little hole in the case below the pins but since everything is minimized there is not a lot of space… Glue the heatsinks on the board, click the fan in place, stow the cable and place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

The 25 x 25 x 6 mm 5V fans and the 14x14 mm heatsinks are widely available and you should easily be able to get them online.

**Happy printing and assembling!**

M!N!MAL 0 CH - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 / Banana Pi M2 Case / Housing / Sleeve with Heatsink & Cooling

zero_m2_case_01.stl

**Design**
I have been looking for a nice three dimensional heart shape for a while and did not really find a nice one, so I made one myself. Maybe you are also on the search and like to use this mine, to print or as a starting point for your own project or creation!

**Construction**
Since the shape is complex (actually more complex than I would have thought when starting it) I added the complete shape and also half models (STL and STEP) to make it easier to use in your projects…

**Happy Designing!**

S!MPLE Heart

simple_heart.stl

A wearable 2 finger vise with thumb operated clamps.

**Design**
F!NGERV!SE is a versatile sleeve worn over two fingers, equipped with two levers for easy operation. By simply pushing with the thumb, users can open and close each part of the vise independently. This innovative tool is perfect for situations where space is limited, and items cannot be brought to a workbench. It provides a stable platform for tasks like soldering, even for those with limited dexterity and coordination.

**Construction**
F!NGERW!SE utilizes two repurposed fold-back binder clips, stripped of their handles, which slide into front extensions on the finger sleeve and into the levers. This design ensures a secure and tight grip, allowing users to position items precisely for tasks like soldering.

The binder clips used are the 15mm type, readily available online.

And following a kind remark from a maker we added a file version with wider brackets for the original Staples Mini Binder Clips since these have a slightly different diameter than all the others…

**Slicing, Printing**
Printing should not be any problem since wall thicknesses are optimized and all fillets clipped at 35°. You can choose if you want to print with supports with the parts laying on the big area of their side surfaces (and small supports under the vise extensions) or without supports (if you have good bed adhesion and cooling) on the side surface of the small vise extensions of both the sleeve as well as the levers. You may want to choose 4 perimeters in order to get strong parts and avoid small infill areas. Both options are readily prepared and there are STLs with either part orientation already set.

**Assembly**
Remove the handles from the binder clips and slide them into the vise extensions. Start by attaching them to the sleeve, then attach the levers. Ensure each binder clip is pushed to the end of its respective gap. Once all clips are on the sleeve and levers are attached, F!NGERV!SE is ready for use.

**Happy printing and clamping!**

F!NGERV!SE - A SMALL WEARABLE VISE

fingervise_lever_1_staples_wo_supports.stl

Aesthetic mic shock absorber for noise-free tabletop recordings. Sleek design, easy assembly.

**Design**
S!LENT is a ring ring with outward curved slits to mount rubber bands or hair ties absorbing vibrations and noise coming from the tabletop. Its reduced shape and form does not interfere with any design or style of table or other equipment and decoration on the table. Always decently in the background.

**Construction**
Nothing from outer space, a ring, curved outwards, a few cutouts to minimize contact with the table and to slide cables under plus a few cut in slits from the top for the rubbers… Keep it simple, keep it stupid!

Depending on the weight of your microphone you will need 4 to 8 rubber bands…

**Slicing & Printing**
Although the part can be printed without supports if you have good cooling and take it slow but we still would suggest to have a few supports under the cutouts which will probably improve the result. Besides that standard settings will completely do the trick, nothing special required…

**Assembly**
Simply attach rubber bands and place the microphone for effortless setup and noise-free recording sessions!

**Happy Printing and Noise Free Conversations!**

S!LENT Desktop Conference Microphone Shock Mount

desktop_microphone_shock_mount.stl

A minimal, foldable print in place case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 with live hinges (with cooling).

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) in the version with cooling (we have another model that is prepared without cooling), less is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. There is a clip in for a 25mm fan without screws. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than one hour / less than half an hour input shaping) and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The parts prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed but printing in PETG is suggested since it delivers the best transparency.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
First you need to connect the fan to the Raspberry, probably by soldering the cables to the board. Please note that the cables have to be connected from the top (see pics) and that the soldering spot on the bottom side is as small as possible. There is a little hole in the case below the pins but since everything is minimized there is not a lot of space… Then click the fan in place, stow the cable and place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place. Needs a little attention with the hinge side pins, which need to be place and inserted first.

The 25 x 25 x 6 mm 5V fans are widely available and you should easily be able to get them online.

**Happy printing and assembling!**

M!N!MAL Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case / Housing / Sleeve with Cooling

minimal_zero_2_case_01_w_cooling.stl

**Design**
This is the reduced to the max case / housing / sleeve for the Raspberry Pi Zero (2 W) in the version without cooling (we have another model that is prepared for cooling), less is hard to imagine. A foldable print in place housing with live hinge that is less than 2mm bigger than the Raspberry itself. All interfaces are accessible and the board itself is covered and protected. Above that it prints as one piece, the assembly is easy and no tools or screws are needed. Just print (in less than an half an hour / under 15 minutes with input shaping) and use…

**Construction**
The case itself has a wall thickness of 0.8mm, optimized for printing with 0.4mm nozzles. The live hinges are exactly one layer (with a layer height of 0.2 mm) high and all openings can easily be bridged with standard cooling settings. All corners and edges (as far as possible) have rounded with fillets clipped at 35° to avoid any overhangs that would need supports.

Since this minimum of a case could be a starting point for your own Raspberry Pi Zero project we also included a STEP file below…

**Slicing, Printing**
The part prints with standard settings (0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom / 4 top layers) without any issues but in case you want to take it one step further and optimize the result there are two recommendations, one for opaque and one for transparent / translucent filaments:

For the opaque materials we suggest to orient the infill at 90° (based on the orientation the file has) since the infill lines of the first layer do then run perpendicular to the live hinges, which is good for their strength and also give a nice outside with beads oriented at the part geometry. Besides that you may also want to set the perimeter count to just 1 in order to get less “frame” around the infill areas. The top layers should be set to 0, the bottom layers to 5 and infill should be set to 100% concentric, which gives the best result for the pins and tubes (especially when we have just 1 perimeter). Usually the part should print without brim which also gives you nice, clean edges.

The super transparent version is a bit more tricky since it uses just one orientation for infill lines. Layer height and perimeters are the same as for the opaque version above but the top and bottom layers both need to be set to zero. The infill is at 100% aligned rectilinear infill set at an angle of 90°. Again no brim will be needed.

In any case auto cooling should be enabled since the layer times are very low towards the end. If you still experience issues with curled areas you might want to try to print two parts at the same time, then all parts should have sufficient cooling time between the layers.

Just one last thing: We recommend “initializing” live hinges direct after printing, and on the print bed when taking the parts off. Just fold them when still warm and you will have a much nicer bend at the live hinges…

**Assembly**
Not much of an assembly actually, place the Raspberry in the case, fold the top and click in place.

**Happy printing!**

M!N!MAL 0 - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case

minimal_zero_2_case_01_wo_cooling.stp

**Design**
This is an advanced version of our original nologo!SKATE spool holder with some advanced features you might find useful! Since we are really printing a lot and mostly with big spools we were always skeptical of mounting the spools to the printer's frame since the movement (especially when retracting) induces some movement and vibration into the printer. Besides that our sometimes very long print durations also require a reliably setup ensuring safe operation with spools falling / jumping of, etc. Therefore we developed our own spool holder design and have been using it extensively on our printers for quite some time.

We have added a filament inlet that prevents the spool from jumping off the spool holder as well as an attachment for a reverse Bowden tube connecting directly to you filament inlet at the printer plus another option to very simply have slipping and sliding prevented.

Besides the printed parts you will (optionally) need the following parts:

4 pcs. 608 ball bearings (22 x 7 mm with 8mm bore, which you can get from Amazon)
1 pcs. PTFE tube 10 cm (in case you want to use the self securing functionality preventing the spool from jumping off)
1 pcs. PTFE tube of the length required to connect from the spool holder to you printer (in case you want to use the reverse Bowden functionality)
2 pcs. simply and standard rubber bands

The spool holder does also function without any of the additional features with just the printed parts.

**Construction**
The spool holder consists of two body parts which are connected by the slide part, which lets you adjust the different width of different spools. The left body part has two holes connected by a duct. On each end a piece of PTFE Bowden tube can be inserted.

The one on the short side receives a short piece of PTFE tube and is the filament inlet. By guiding the filament into and through the spool holder the spool itself is prevented from jumping off the spool holder since any tension or pull on the filament goes vertically straight towards the spool holder (actually a “reverse reverse Bowden”)

The one on the long sides receives the long piece of PTFE tube and connects to the filament inlet on your printer. This reverse Bowden prevents any pull on the filament holder when feeding filament into the printer. So you can literally place your spool holder anywhere around and in any direction towards your printer. Just be aware that PTFE tubes are very smooth but do still have some friction. The longer the connection tube gets the more friction it has and that might adverse effects on filament feeding if it gets too long.

Four plugs attach the ball bearings (or their printed replacement) to the two body parts.

The oval grooves at the bottom side of the body parts receive and hold the rubber bands in place to prevent slipping and sliding.

**Slicing & Printing**
The parts are design to be primarily printed with a 0.4mm nozzle and 4 perimeters (for a little added stability).

We suggest printing the two body parts standing upright with manual supports on just the edges of the opening for the slide. Please do not print with automatically generated supports since these would also fill the duct (which does not need supports) for the PTFE tubes and render it unusable.

Besides that everything should just print like a charm.

**Assembly**
Once printed you simply mount the ball bearings (or their printed replacement with a little grease) with the plugs.
Slide the slide part through the right body part and fix it in the left body part with a few drops of glue.
As such the spool holder does already work and if you want to use the added functionality you can now insert the two PTFE tubes and fix it with just on drop of glue on the outside if you will (not necessarily required).
Finally hook the rubber bands in the grooves at the bottom and you are done. These steps are also shown in the pics and will assist you and setting up your durable and reliable SL!DE.

SL!DE Spoolholder

nologo_design_skate_body_l.stl

**Design**
Tuning the first layer is challenging at times! Once you manage to level the bed, adjust nozzle distance it looks nice and works as it should. But is it really the thickness it should be? Will the overall height of your print be on the point? Since extrusion width as well as flow settings play a role (not only) in the first layer as well we always found it useful to measure the effective height and do some additional tuning and dialling btw. nozzle distance, flow and extrusion width. Doing that with a calliper was always a bit complicated and unreliable (directly on the bed) so we designed a quick tool to measure the first layer's thickness directly on the bed.

**Construction**
The indicator needle is articulated at the left side and relates to some simple notches at the right side, each indicating a 0.1 mm step. The frame has a flat surface for stability and a ruler / guide like bottom to place it flat on the print bed. If you slide the gauge over the bed and the ‘feeler’ moves over the skirt or brim you see the needle move to the thickness indicated by the notches.

**Slicing, Printing**
The design is optimized for printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.15 mm layer height. Please make sure that your slicer settings for the first layer are not thicker than 0.2 mm otherwise the indicator needle will be attached to the frame. No brim, raft or supports needed.

**Assembly**

Once printed you just need to break the slight connection the indicator will have with the frame. Do so by pushing the indicator needle slightly towards the bottom edge starting at the right / indicator step side. It should come loose easily… That is all!
 

Happy printing and measuring!

F!RST Layer

22086-221202-2-cad-os-first_layer_gauge_02.stl

**Design**
Both the Banana and the Raspberry Zero are great little devices but especially the Banana definitely needs cooling, active if possible. An antenna to improve WiFi connection is also an add on you might want to have. This design puts it all together in one case, the Banana or Raspberry, a 30 mm fan and an antenna. Easily printable with no supports, in around 3 hrs, for add-on parts that are standard and widely available on the internet and quickly mounted to any 20 or 40 mm aluminium extrusion with cable ties. I personally use (and designed) the case for the Banana Zeros as OctoPrint servers for the 3D printers in my farm.

**Construction**
The design is made of 3 printed parts, the case itself, a clip to fix the SBC inside the case and an end cap that you might or might not need / want (I use mine without to maximise airflow). The clip (and the Zero)  is held in place by the fan's screws, the antenna socket screws on and the end cap fits tightly into the upper end of the case. The case has 2 x 2 openings for cable ties with ducts which are designed so a 2.6 mm cable tie can just be pushed through and will come out the opposite side.

Besides the prints these other parts have been used: 

[Fan](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B095WJL5TF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details), [Heatsinks](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09KXY6674?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details), [Antenna](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09K41BDYL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

**Slicing, Printing**
All three parts print completely without supports if printed in the orientation in the files.

The case and the clip part should be perfectly fine with standard settings (e.g. 0.4 mm nozzle, ~0.15 mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom/top layers, 20% infill) and are designed to be printed with a 0.4mm nozzle.

The endcap (if needed) should be printed flat on the bed, with no top and bottom layers and a grid infill around 15%. This will give you the thinnest mesh structure with adjustable openings by changing the infill percentage.

Plain PLA should be perfectly fine for the parts.

**Assembly**
While the parts are printing I suggest preparing the Banana or Raspberry Zero by connecting (soldering) the fan cables to the right pins on the SBC (Pin 4 +5V and Pin 6 GND) and mounting the heatsinks onto the SBC. And please see also the assembly sequence pic ord PDF to which also the numbering is related.

First thing after finishing the prints is to mount the antenna connector (with the antenna cable) into the case (1). Do not forget to use the (usually) supplied washer on the outside of the case to ensure a tight fit before screwing on the antenna (2) and pluging the cable onto the Zero (3, 4).

Next slide the clip on the fan cables (5). Make sure the flat side faces towards the fan.

Now slide the Zero into the case (5) (through the fan side opening, heatsinks point towards the antenna mount) and position it into the two “clamps” at the other side. Please make sure that the antenna cable is also guided through the case, as a loop, always on the top side of the SBC.

Position the clip into the case (6, 7)so it fixes the two still loose corners of your Zero. Make sure to position the clip in the right rotation since the grooves holding the Zero are different on each side. But there is a notch in the case that fits exactly into the gap of the clip which will help you identify the right orientation.

Next step is to screw on the fan and I suggest starting with the two screws that go into the case (8) and only then screw in the screws that go into the clip (9).

You can now bend the antenna cable loop that is looking out of the case on the top side to the underside of the SBC where it will stay by itself (10, 11). And finally you can clip on the end cap (12).

Sounds actually a bit more difficult than it is. Should actually all be fairly easy and done within a few minutes!

 

Happy printing and assembling!



SH!ELD Zero - Case for Banana Pi BPI-M2 ZERO or Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W

23000-230401-2-cad-os-banana_pi_case_complete.stl

STOP !T is a very simple and plain doorstop for doors with an automatic door closer. It actually uses the automatic door closer to keep the door open without scratching the floor, entangling with the carper, accidentially getting kicked away… Just open the door, slide it in the automatic door closers slot and softly release the door. It will rest against stop!T and remain open… When unused just place it on top of the automatic door opener, so it is always at hand when needed. Used mine for years now and would not want to miss it!

STOP !T doorstop

23000-231026-2-cad-os-doorstop.stl

The R!SE tablet is a sleek and minimalist tablet stand designed to elevate your device to the perfect viewing angle. Crafted for ease and aesthetics, it's ideally suited for fast and material-efficient spiral vase printing.

R!SE tablet

tablet_stand_01.stl

The R!SE phone is a sleek and minimalist phone stand designed to elevate your device to the perfect viewing angle. Crafted for ease and aesthetics, it's ideally suited for fast and material-efficient spiral vase printing.

R!SE phone

nologo_rise_phone.stl

A minimalistic, geometric, mathematical representation of a sparrow. Prints in two parts that are glued together. No supports needed, just a fine layer height might improve the result.
Happy printing!

W!LD Sparrow

sparrow_6_l.stl

A minimalistic, geometric, mathematical representation of a swallow. Prints in two parts that are glued together. No supports, just a fine layer height might improve the result...
Happy printing!

nologodesign

Achievements

Seedling

Debutant

Pinned models

W!LD Swallow

W!LD Sparrow

SL!DE Spoolholder

M!N!MAL 0 - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case

M!N!MAL Raspberry PI Cases

M!N!MAL 5 CH - Raspberry Pi 5 Case

M!N!MAL 5 - Raspberry Pi 5 Case

M!N!MAL 4 CH - Raspberry Pi 4 Case

M!N!MAL 4 - Raspberry Pi 4 Case

M!N!MAL 3 CH - Raspberry Pi 3 Case

M!N!MAL 3 - Raspberry Pi 3 Case

M!N!MAL 0 CH - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 / Banana Pi M2 Case / Housing / Sleeve with Heatsink & Cooling

S!MPLE Heart

F!NGERV!SE - A SMALL WEARABLE VISE

S!LENT Desktop Conference Microphone Shock Mount

M!N!MAL Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case / Housing / Sleeve with Cooling

M!N!MAL 0 - Raspberry Pi Zero 2 Case

SL!DE Spoolholder

F!RST Layer

SH!ELD Zero - Case for Banana Pi BPI-M2 ZERO or Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W

STOP !T doorstop

R!SE tablet

R!SE phone

W!LD Sparrow

W!LD Swallow