**furniture hook designed to fit on 19mmx19mm vertical profile. - profiles of IKEA FJÄLLBO rack in my case.**

one wall is thin so it can bend to fit around the profile at any height. on the opposite side there is a hole for one M4 screw to tighten the hook so it wont slide down.

I printed mine with ABS with triple perimeter at 30% infill so that it definitely wont crack under heavy load. no supports and no brim.

**model can be very easily resized to fit on different profile sizes. **

IKEA hook.stl

a compact case for arduino nano. i changed a design i found online to add a micro switch. this switch can cycle through different light modes. Power via usb, route output cables through the other end. 

arduino nano case .stl

nano case1 .stl

I wanted a goofy banner for my 3d printer enclosure so i designed this 3d printable slogan that encapsulates the whole 3D printing hobby. **Style obviously inspired by the Live Laugh love decorations.**

**Printing:**
dimensions obviously doesn't matter but the bigger, the better. i printed mine with no brim as i figured it would be a nightmare to remove later so i leveled my bed and crossed my fingers, but it worked. It really is a benchmark of proper first layer adhesion.

Problem - design - solution.stl

banner.stl

I designed this mold to make a bunch of plaster pots shaped like a lychee fruit for - guess what. Lychee plants. It's obviously more worth it to print this mold if you're planning on making at least multiple pots.

**Material:**
Raw plaster isn't a good idea for storing moist soil as it will degrade the material. so you can print an insert and grow the plant in it and thus isolate plaster from water. (transparent filament is really cool for this as you can see the soil from beneath) other suitable materials would be concrete, clay or epoxy resin. really whatever you want but plaster of paris is obviously the cheapest choice. from my tests. about 2kg of my plaster with 1.4l of water mix fill the entire mold fully. As i printed my mold with regular PLA, i was initially worried about the plaster overheating the plastic during the curing process, but turned out to be a non issue.

**Using the mold:**
5 mold parts have to be printed separately, it took me about 3 days to print. Sides have to be sanded smooth so that the parting line (the vertical line where the two mold parts meet) will be hardly visible. same has to be done to the core part of the mold to ensure easy removal*. 4 sides of the mold have to be screwed together tightly. After assembling the mold, the inside can be coated with thin layer of vegetable oil to make sure the plaster wont stick to rough print lines. same must be done to core part.
After the plaster mix is made. Pour it into the mold, then insert the weighted-down core (I used metal pellets and water) to make sure that the core won't get pushed up to the surface during curing. shake the mold around a little bit or use a vibrating drill to remove the bubbles as they can easily get stuck on the top of the mold. 
After the plaster has cured. core can be removed. mold sides disasembled and the pot removed for hardening.
Before the plaster fully hardens, you can gently scrape off any parting lines or imperfections.
After hardening you can drill holes in the bottom for water drainage. 

**Printing:**
 I used .6mm nozzle with 1.2mm wall thickness. very low infill.
Model is pretty big so a total of about 650g of filament was used. Printing the parts one at a time ensures no blobs or stringing from printhead traveling from one part to the next. It's a good idea to print the core out of transparent filament (cheap transparent PETG in my case) as you can see the cross section of the mold during casting and know if you poured enough plaster mix. 


*the first version of the core had straight, vertical walls so as the draft angle was too low, vaccum was created during the removal of the core. I corrected that by tapering the walls inward. so now it's much simpler to remove a pot from the mold. 
I tried adding some silicone gasket but then realized it's completely unnecessary as slightly thick plaster doesnt leak through tightly squashed plastic walls. This is mainly due to the allignment notches that also increase contact surface area.

***Note that this project was pretty much my first time with plaster casting so i might have made some obvious mistakes. 

Lychee fruit shaped pot mold 

Liczi mold (with extra screw holes).stl

**1:4 reduction gear assembly**
from my project i'm designing. It's a compact, clever way of mounting Nema 17 stepper motor below a turntable that uses a lazy susan bearing. gear should slide onto the motor shaft with no need for glue or screws. I made a demonstration video of how all of it is put together. Note that the project is unfinished and i already opted out for a different bearing type so it's not all finished although the gears themselves work very smoothly.

1:4 reduction bevel gear assembly Nema17.stl

assembly example.stl

**HDD drive rack**
I designed this rack to hold 16 drives in total. 8 3.5inch drives and 8 2.5inch drives.
If you're anything like me. You have a pile of decent, salvaged drives lying around the house. With a rack like this, you can organize them neatly in one location and wire them into a JBOD storage.

**Overview and features:**

**Drive mounting:**
Drives are slid into place and secured with two machine screws each. Big drive goes into the upper part of the compartment while the smaller drive goes to the lower part. For hot-swappable functionality. you could ignore screws and just install rubber pads to securely squish drives in and out of place. Note that drives wont fall through the back side because of the guard wall on the side so no need to worry. Drives do actually wobble around inside as there is a little extra space that can be used to glue some rubber/foam pads to dampen vibrations 

**Rack mounting:**
The whole print can free stand on a desk. it has a big footprint so it won't tip over very easily. But for me, I added two big holes to screw the whole rack to a surface vertically. A side of a desk in my case. with extra holes on the opposite side to allow easy screwdriver access. 

**Cooling:**
 there are holes added to each compartment, both to save filament and to allow for airflow to at least cool the drives with convection. For a more efficient solution. you could easily mount a fan to the back with some self tapping screws.  

Extra features:
-There are semi-rings on the side wall which allow for some zipties or velcro straps to be used for routing cables. they are very strong due to the layer orientation.
-each compartment has a small pocket for notes and labels. Just cut a 40x15mm piece of paper and slide it in. Its shape ensures that nothing will fall out. 


**Bonus:**
I'm adding the original .blend file. I use non-destructive workflow so you are free to edit the model for your preference. All Bolean modifiers are there. 

**Printing:**
this model is big (about 400g of PLA in my case) it just barely fits on a 30x30cm print bed, altough you could just print it in parts. the model is printed on its back side which has relatively small footprint. so i reccomend using a brim and some glue stick. Also make sure you dont allign the Z-Seam on the inside because any oozed filament and blobs might be hard to remove.

Drive rack.stl

drawing tablet wall mount meant to be slid into place on a wall with two screws already screwed into the wall. Mount was designed for Artisul D16 drawing tablet (but bigger tablets should still fit) and its regulated stand as well as the drawing pen with a hole on a left. Soft PLA doesn't scratch the tablet. I mounted mine above my middle screen. You can quickly remove tablet from the mount and start drawing. There are two semi rings on the front,  you can hook some velcro straps on them to guide some cables. they are very strong. Model is pretty big. I printed mine rotated 45 degrees to snuggly fit on a 30x30cm build plate. you can scale it down a lot just make sure there is some room for the tablet to fit without too much screen scratching

drawing tablet wall mount.stl

tablet holder.stl

Really proud of this one. Soldering wire stand with print in place hinge and metal shaft slid into a hole. supports most sizes of soldering wire spools, many spools can be installed at once. If you want to access the spools, just lift the metal shaft up. If a small wire spool is installed, there is always more room for insulation tape, scotch tape etc
it works incredibly smoothly and is very strong. the bottom of the stand is corrugated so it grips nicely to a rough desk but there are also round holes for rubber pads.
The middle section has all the main lead exposure health hazards noted down for when you'll inevitably forget about them from all the lead fumes you have been inhaling. The sides have tin and lead elements decals.

_The model is supposed to be printed laying down with the hinge's shaft touching the build plate. The orientation here is very important so that the hinge works properly. I printed mine with .6mm nozzle at .14mm layer height and 10% infill. it's very strong and the letters & decals and perfectly readable. No brim and only one support for the shaft slot on the left side.
After printing, a ~10cm long, 10mm wide shaft is supposed to be pushed into the hole above the hinge. If you dont have a metal shaft, you can always 3d print one though it wont look as neat._

Soldering wire stand (Print in place)

simple handle with a hinge. Print the whole thing then remove the brim and bend the handle a few times to loosen the hinge. It prints already assembled and is suprisingly smooth and sturdy. The rotational range is about 210 degrees. I added only a few supports for the elevated flat parts. Print at low infill with thicker walls depending on the expected load. The hinge is very strong and it hardly flexes when being twisted. for addidtional strength, two machine screws and nuts can be slid into the holes in the hinge. Tolerances in the hinge are pretty high so it should print well on most printers. It can be down-scaled within reason if needed.

I printed mine with black PLA at 50C Bed and 195C nozzle with 100% cooling to better handle the overhangs
the hinge is very squeaky but the noise gets reduced the more the hinge is used, a little bit of thick lubricant can be added to mitigate the issue

Print in place handle with a hinge .stl

Wall mounted battery charger holder, designed to work with a stock canon battery charger but should probably work with other brands. Power cord is routed around the charger through the clips down to the wall plug. Textured back of the print allows for sticking the holder to the wall with double sided tape but it can also be screwed through the holes on the sides.

I printed mine with standard PLA at very low infill and wall thickness to allow for some flex so the charger can be easily removed if needed. If the model is printed with the filament color closely matching the wall color, in blends nicely and is hardly visible.

Camera battery charge wall mount .stl

All in one holder designed for standard 3d printer spatula and these cheap brass brushes often sold in kits of 3, you can store all of them convinientely push-fit in their spots.
I printed mine with abs at low infill and super glued it to the side of my 3d printer enclosure for easy access, however the holes in the back of the holder allow for also using zip-ties, screws and the corrugated backing sticks well to double sided tape.

Spatula & brush holder.stl

Simple Hot glue gun stand designed to be screwed into a side of a desk (3cm thick desk in my case). The hole at the bottom can be plugged with a metal cup (like a glass jar lid) which will collect dripping hot glue without damaging the plastic shell

I printed mine with abs with some tree supports for the top part. no brim needed

Hot glue gun stand.stl

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Pinned models

Drive rack.stl

IKEA hook.stl

arduino nano case .stl

Problem - design - solution.stl

Lychee fruit shaped pot mold

1:4 reduction bevel gear assembly Nema17.stl

Drive rack.stl

drawing tablet wall mount.stl

Soldering wire stand (Print in place)

Print in place handle with a hinge .stl

Camera battery charge wall mount .stl

Spatula & brush holder.stl

Hot glue gun stand.stl