'm in the middle of a Micron+ build, and needed some of the 222 style Wago's in my build for the mains wiring. Since the Micron+ uses DIN rails, I assumed there would already be a model available. I was wrong, and here is mine. I used the Voron DIN mount as my inspiration for this design, though it is 100% my own CAD and model.

This is specific for the larger 222 style, which are generally what you will find with the generic Wago's available all over Amazon, and other sources. It is designed for the 413, 3 pin model, but it will absolutely hold the larger models; I have 5 conductor 415's, and they snap in just fine. The 2 conductor model, 412, does not fit, though you could Z scale the model down to 7mm thick, and the 412 would then fit.

Usage is get your wiring in order, and everything in place, then snap the Wago's down into the holder. You can get them out again by pulling from the bottom (opposite the connector levers) to pop it out of the retention clip. The DIN portion just snaps to standard DIN rails. I've printed mine in ASA and ABS+, and baring that I would think PETG would be a great material. Not sure I would recommend PLA, as it's more rigid.

3 x Wago 222-413 DIN Mount

This is the culmination of projects while I've been printing parts to build a Voron. I decided it was time to convert the X axis to a linear rail. I combined this with my shroud design which will hold any E3D V6 compatible hotend.

The X Carriage design is blatantly inspired by the Voron Switchwire; it is my design from scratch, but you can see the inspiration clear as day. You will need to print both halves. You will also need the 2 E3D mount parts, as well as two of the belt holders.

Hardware wise, you will need: 
18 x M3x8mm SHCS
3 x M3x45mm SHCS
2 x M3x16mm SHCS
3 x M3 nuts
10 x M3 heat set inserts 4mm ~ 6mm
4 x M5x8mm BHCS
4 x M5 T nuts
2 x M5x16mm BHCS
2 x M5 nuts
6 x M3 T nuts
1 x 300mm MGN12H Linear Rail
~650mm GT2 Belt.
4 x F695 Bearings
4 x 1mm M5 shim spacers.
Zip ties.

Printed parts should be in ABS or PETG if you don't plan on printing ABS. 40% infill, 4 perimeters, 4 top and bottom layers.

1 x X_Carriage - Part 1
1 x X_Carriage - Part 2
1 x IronM1E3DMountShroudBase
1 x IronM1E3DMountShroudTop
2 x BeltHolder
2 x F695_LowerMount

I've included a screenshot showing the plating of the parts for print orientation.

Most likely you will need to ream holes slightly. I left them a little on the tight side. I also recommend lightly sanding the mating surfaces of the E3D holder to ensure a snug closure.

For assembly, refer to the attached photos and the assembly model. It's pretty easy. You will end up with the hotend about 8mm lower, and 20mm forward. You will need to setup new offsets in order to get you You may also need to reduce your Y bed size to 200 from 235.

This is specifically for the Simax3D Iron M1, but it would most likely adapt to darn near any printer that uses a 2020 v-rail extrusion for the X gantry, such as the Ender series.

The STL files are included here, along with the .step file for the assembly picture.

Simax 3D X Axis Linear Rail Conversion

X Carriage A

Belt Holder

E3D Mount + Shroud Base

E3D Mount + Shroud Top

X Carriage B

I designed this for mains wiring up a 3D printer under the hood. The Voron SW uses 2 power supplys, and needs some wiring to be done. I could have used blades, and made a wire harness, but I wanted something I could easily take apart to service. I could have used wire nuts, but they sort of suck. I settles on Wago 222-413 connector blocks. This part is designed to hold 3 of them for the ground, common, and neutral wires from mains wiring.

It is designed with the Voron Swithwire in mind, but it should work on any frame with enough clearance for the Wago connectors and the wires.

Wago connectors snap into place, and are held quite firmly. You can remove them, but it take a bit of force.

Print in ABS or PETG at 40% infill; PLA will work too, but this is most likely going to be under your heated bed with your electronics, making ABS the correct choice.

3030 Extrusion Mount For 3 Wago 222-413 Blocks

I've been printing ABS with my Iron M1, and having lots of problems with the draft caused by the E3D heat sink cooler. This new mount and shroud takes care of that, with a duct that directs the airflow to the side away from the heaterblock. I recommend using this part cooler: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2469775

Specifically the right hand 5015 blower model, which will fit perfectly.

The "b" part needs to be printed front down, with support touching the bed. I recommend you don't support the holes, just the ears, and the slopes on the sides. The "a" part needs no supports.

This is designed for heat set M3 threaded inserts, up to 6mm long. You will need 7 of them to assemble. 

To ensure a better seal of the heat sink cooling chamber, you can wrap a layer or 2 of narrow kapton tape around the very bottom of the heatsink where it interfaces with the bottom of the shroud.

I recommend test fitting the heatsink and hotend before assembly. Ensure when assembled there is no wiggle of the heatsink at the mount. If there is, gently sand the mating surfaces, test fitting while you do this, until you have a snug fit, and reasonable seal of the heatsink chamber.

Print in ABS, 40% infill. You can print it with whatever you want, but if you're going to print ABS, you want this part printed in ABS. PLA or PETG will deform over time at ABS printing temps.

Simax3D IronM1 E3D Mount & Fan Shroud

IronM1E3DShroudR2_a.stl

Simple design to prevent a 2S battery from being ejected during a crash. Designed around the Tatu 450mAh 2S HV packs.

Print in TPU, and secure with top plate screws over the top plate. That's it.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

Tinyhawk II Freestyle Battery Tray

This is hopefully my last variation on this design. Decided I wanted a hand rest, and happened to be mucking about with a Duke Nukem 3D maker coin. The result is this variation.

You need to print the centre piece in either PETG or ABS. PLA does not have strong enough layer adhesion; it will split. The centre piece needs to have the slots for the throttle axis levers scraped out on the surface that is bridged during printing. It should be a tight fit, not a press fit. Print with 50% infill. Can be printed at 0.3mm layers, though 0.2 will probably give you less post processing.

You need to print 2 grip panels, one for either side. These can be whatever you want. I used a silk copper PLA, but I am going to print some in TPU to see if they're more comfortable. Print with 25% ~ 50% infill. 0.2mm layers, or finer.

Lastly you need to print the hand rest, and the end cap. These can also be printed in PLA, or whatever material you wish. I wouldn't use TPU for these. Print at 0.2mm layers, with 50% infill.

Lastly, you will need 11 M3x6mm screws, cap, or round head will work, to assemble it. Use the metal throttle arms, and assemble it fully off the THQ. The last step should be installing it on the THQ. Be sure to place the slot cutouts to the inside for the captive square nuts.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

VKB NXT THQ KG12 Throttle Large with Rest

NXT-L39Throttle-EndCap.stl

This is a replacement plate for the Simax3D Iron M1, which replaces the stock hotend assembly with an E3D V6 mount.

I designed this because the stock hotend assembly is insanely loud. You will need to sort out a part cooler. I'm using a really nice one that runs off a 5015 blower; you can get that here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2469775
You can reuse the 5015 from the stock hotend assembly. You do want to get a high quality 24V hotend cooler, as the original stock fans are really bad.

I printed mine in PLA+, though PETG or ABS would be better. I used 50% infill, and I'm a dozen prints in on this setup, and no drooping, or other issues. Bed leveling has held solidly.

Do install the silicon boot on your heater block, and secure it with some kapton tape. I found that cooler was too efficient, and the hotend was struggling to maintain PETG temps.

Simax3D Iron M1 E3D V6 Mount

E3D V6 Mount Plate R2.stl

This is the 3rd iteration of my throttle handle. You need to print one centre piece, and 2 grip panels. You will need 8 M3x6mm~10mm to assemble it.

Take care to scrape out the slots for the throttle levers. I use a small standard screw driver to gently scrape the slot where the print is bridged. Do this, and check the fit. It should be a snug fit, but not quite a press fit.

Print the center portion in PETG or ABS; you need a strong material, or it will split on the layers when you insert the throttle levers.

For assembly, remove the throttle levers from the THQ base, and fit them into the handle; the t-nuts will be press fit. Don't over tighten the screws or you will risk splitting the plastic on the layers. Once the levers are installed in the handle, install the unit into your THQ base, as directed by VKB (lock the clutches to prevent any damage).

Print the grip panels in PLA, or whatever you want. Something that will give you some reasonable detail.

Secure the grip panels to the centre with the 8 M3 screws.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

VKB NXT THQ KG12 Large Throttle Handle

NXT-L39Throttle_CentreMK3.stl

I've been working on this for the last couple of days. This is the easier to print, and slightly refined version of my one piece design. Dimensionally, this is the same size as the one piece; same width, mounting position, and radius. There are some differences in the design to give it some more character.

Further, it is broken into 2 parts; a centre, and a grip. You need 1 centre, and 2 grips, along with 8 M3x6mm screws to assemble it.
Print the centre piece in PETG or ABS; PLA has a strong tendency to split on the layers when inserting the throttle axis arms. After printing, use a small standard screw driver to scrape the bridged portion of the socket that the throttle arms mount in. The fit should be snug, not press fit. I spent a lot of time and prints making sure it was snug, not loose. This requires some minor work to finish the sockets, which is scraping gently on the bridged side.
The grips can be printed in PETG, ABS, PLA, TPU. I'd suggest PLA or TPU. A firm TPU gives a nice grip.
Print everything with 20% ~ 30% infill. Orient parts flat on the print surface; it will be pretty obvious how to orient them.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

VKB NXT THQ KG12 Throttle Grip MK2

NXT-L39Throttle_CentreMK2.stl

I recently picked up an L-39 in MS Flight Sim 2020, and loved the look of the throttle in cockpit. It in fact looks a lot like the KG12 throttle handle VKB has been teasing for literally over a year now.

I decided to make my own.

Print it in the orientation shown in the screenshot, with the cylinder end with the longest mount arm down. I used 0.3mm layers to print it, so it was faster. There really is no reason to use 0.2mm layers, it gives no advantage. Print it with auto supports, and it should print perfectly. You will need to spend some time cleaning out the actual mount holes, but otherwise should be very easy to clean up.

I printed mine in PLA, though you could easily print it in PETG or ABS too.

When mounted, keep in mind that the taller side encroaches a little on the adjacent throttle lever. If there is no lever to that side, no problem. Otherwise you may need to lower that lever handle to clear it. Mine is setup with the prop control beside and below the throttle handle. Handle is 96mm wide in total, and quite comfortable to use.

UPDATE: Check out the multi-part MK2 here: https://thangs.com/Darkstar77/VKB%20NXT%20THQ%20KG12%20Throttle%20Grip%20MK2-53569

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

VKB NXT THQ Dual Throttle Handle

I recently picked up an L-39 in MS Flight Sim 2020, and loved the look of the throttle in cockpit. It in fact looks a lot like the KG12 throttle handle VKB has been teasing for literally over a year now.

I decided to make my own.

Print it in the orientation shown in the screenshot, with the cylinder end with the longest mount arm down. I used 0.3mm layers to print it, so it was faster. There really is no reason to use 0.2mm layers, it gives no advantage. Print it with auto supports, and it should print perfectly. You will need to spend some time cleaning out the actual mount holes, but otherwise should be very easy to clean up.

I printed mine in PLA, though you could easily print it in PETG or ABS too.

When mounted, keep in mind that the taller side encroaches a little on the adjacent throttle lever. If there is no lever to that side, no problem. Otherwise you may need to lower that lever handle to clear it. Mine is setup with the prop control beside and below the throttle handle. Handle is 96mm wide in total, and quite comfortable to use.

I recently designed a bunch of parts for my friend with his Bangarang 3". Initially I was just going to re-use my old Bangarang parts, but instead ended up designing new parts, which are better than my previous ones. These all mount on the rear standoffs. This includes the following:

1 - A Standalone SMA/RPSMA pigtail holder on a 45 degree angle, with a channel for your power lead. The channel includes small zip tie holes to secure the power lead, and keep it away from your props. This is the only non modular part of the set.

2 - The same part as above, but to be used with the rest of the parts.

3 - A Rx tray for most dual antenna Rx's, from the XM+ to the R-XSR and so on. This part will accept antenna tube with an OD between 3.3mm ~ 3.5mm. Smaller OD stuff will most likely need a drop of glue to secure. I have some 3.4mm stuff which friction fits in the prints I've done so far. Includes zip tie holes for small zip ties to secure the Rx to the tray, or you could use double sided tape.

4 - A Rx tray for ExpressLRS Rx's that include the T style antenna's. I have specifically used the Jumper Aion, but in theory anything with a similarly sized T joint antenna should be able to fit. There are zip tie holes for the antenna and the Rx.

5 - A tray that routes and holds the same style antenna as above, which also includes a notch for the power lead to route up through the VTx pigtail holder. Again, should fit any antenna that is similarly sized, but I have specifically been using the Jumper Aion ExpressLRS Rx's.

Print these in PLA, PETG, or TPU. The 2 of the Rx trays need to be printed with supports touching the bed. The ELRS antenna guide and holder should be printed upside down (as oriented in the object), no supports needed. The VTx pigtail holder, either version, should be printed upside down, with no supports. You will need to flip the model in your slicer.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

Bangarang XL VTx & Rx parts.

VTx Offset Mount + Power.stl

These parts are designed to fit over the rear stand offs on the standard Bangarang 3" chassis; may fit the 4" and 5" models, but will not fit the XL 5" and 6" models.

First part is a stand alone VTX pigtail mount with a channel for the battery lead that includes zip tie slots for a small zip tie to hold the power lead in place. This is if you don't need the Rx tray.

The second 2 parts are to be used together. The upper VTX pigtail mount and power lead holder, and the lower Rx tray. The Rx tray should hold up to a XM+ (it will hang a little off towards the stack), but was designed with the R-XSR (no header block), the Radiomaster R81, or similar dual antenna Rx's in mind. There is of course slots for a small zip tie to secure the Rx. The antenna routing holes should accept antenna tube with an OD of around 3.3mm~3.5mm; you may need to add a drop of glue to secure them. The 3.4mm stuff I have friction fits. Alternately you can just run the antenna wires through the holes, and use zip ties and shrink wrap off the arms to mount the antennas. Angle of the holes is 50 degrees, which is slightly tighter than the arms, but should give you good clearance and nearly 90 degree separation of the antennas for best reception.

Print in PLA, PETG, or TPU. The VTX pigtail holders will print without supports; arrange them upside down on the build plate for best results. The Rx tray needs to be printed with supports touching the build plate.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

Bangarang 3 Inch VTX Pigtail Mount & Rx Tray

VTxOffsetMountPower-StandAlone-Bangarang3.stl

After living with my original design for a while, I saw some flaws in it; mainly that I was hitting keys I didn't mean to using the throttles, and that it was harder to reach than it needed to be. This is the second version, which mounts the gherkin keyboard on a 26 degree angle, while moving it back a little. Clears the SEM and THQ modules in the vertical position, not so sure about the FSM-GA module however; it might clear just fine, it might not. I don't own that module.

Print it with the large face, the face the keyboard mounts to, down and you won't need any supports. 0.2 layers are fine. You could probably get away with 0.3 to speed up the print.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

VKB MFH Gherkin Mount Angled

After living with my original design for a while, I saw some flaws in it. This is the second version, which mounts the gherkin keyboard on a 26 degree angle, while moving it back a little. Clears the SEM and THQ modules, not so sure about the FSM-GA module however; it might clear just fine.

This is a mount that will sit on the VKB GNX MFH with holes to mount a Gherkin Keyboard. Gives you a nice 3x10 keyboard right on your VKB GNX setup. I've tested with the SEM vertical module, and the THQ module mounted on my MFH, and nothing gets in the way. Use some relegeneable keycaps, and you're off to the races on expanding functionality.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

VKB MFH Gherkin Mount

This is a mount that will sit on the VKB GNX MFH with holes to mount a Gherkin Keyboard. Gives you a nice 3x10 keyboard right on your VKB GNX setup. I've tested with the SEM vertical module, and the THQ module mounted on my MFH, and nothing gets in the way. Use some relegeneable keycaps, and you're off to the races on expanding functionality.

Remember that stupid FAD of spinners? Before they were everywhere, I had designed a bunch of them, and was giving them to people, or selling them. This is my entire collection of designs. Some are good, some are bad. They all use your standard skate bearing.

Print them in whatever you want. I used PLA in the past. 

My Spinner Collection

SpinThingFlower-SingleBearing.stl

Key fob designed to look like the old school leather fobs that used to come with a new motorcycle, instead of those stupid "jet" safety pulls.

Print it in TPU, and use a 4mm tall chicago screw to assemble the loop for the key ring. Print it in 2 colours if you can; one for the base, and one for the text.

Super Tenere Keyfob

SuperTenereKeyFob.stl

This is a simple part that you print with one copy mirrored. Designed to work with M2 hardware, and use a screw hole meant for the original foot, and an existing assemble screw. Small recess for a peel and stick rubber foot. Gives a 5 degree angle to the board, which I find more comfortable. 

Print in PLA, top side down on the build plate.

Discipline Keyboard Feet

This is my Armattan Mongoose Rx and VTx trays. Easily holds a XM+ Rx or smaller, with a zip tie, and easy antenna routing out to the rear arms to be shrink wrapped to a zip tie. The upper portion can hold a older style VTx, or the pigtail from a stack mount VTx. There are two models for the VTx holder; with prop protecting fingers to route the battery lead up, or without.

I raced a Mongoose with this setup for 2 years, and it handled a lot of crashes, never once cut a battery lead, VTx antenna, or broke any of the printed parts.

Print in PLA, PETG, or ABS. TPU should work too, though is not needed.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

Armattan Mongoose VTX and RX trays.

MongooseVTxRxTrayV3_Bottom.stl

This is my second version of my Stryfe Foregrip. I personally prefer this one, and it's the one that is installed on my Stryfe.

Print it in PLA or PETG, ABS works too.

Nerf Stryfe Foregrip MK2

StryfeForeGripMK2.stl

Foregrip for the Nerf Stryfe. This is my original design. I prefer the MK2, but I'm uploading this because it was popular on Thingiverse.

Print in PLA or PETG. ABS works too.

Nerf Stryfe Foregrip MK1

MainGrip.stl

Really simple print designed to mount over the FC on standoffs. Designed to hold a FrSky XM+ and a eachine VTX03. Print in PLA or PETG

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

30.5 x 30.5 XM+ VTX03 Equipment Tray

Really simple print designed to mount over the FC on standoffs. Designed to hold a FrSky XM+ and a eachine VTX03. Print in PLA or PETG

Simple-ish set of parts to make mounting a Rx and VTX a little easier on the back end of a Bangarang XL. Print it in PLA or PETG or even TPU. Slide fit over the rear standoffs, and clamps down with the top plate.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

Sabotage RC Bangarang XL Rx Tray & VTx Holder

RxTray.stl

Print in PETG or ABS. 5 walls, 5 top & bottom, 100% infill. Base model is 10mm, can be easily scaled on the Z axis to fit whatever size you need. Prints fast.

Traxxas Shock Preload Spacer

This is a Rx box I designed after not being able to buy one at the local hobby shop. It fits the LCG chassis, which I have, and should fit the regular slash as well. It is not water proof, though with some shoe goop, it could be made so. I have bashed it as is in snow and mud, and nothing has made it into the box. Use standard M3 screws to afix the lid; M3x16 ~ M3x20 will do.

Can be printed in PLA, though I recommend PETG or ABS. You could probably get away with a more rigid TPU as well. Print with 5 walls and 5 top and bottom, 40% infill. It should print mostly solid with those settings, and be quite strong.

Licensed under Creative Commons, Attribution, Non Commercial, version 4. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/legalcode.txt

Traxxas Slash RX Box

V2RxBox-Bottom.stl

This is a simple design to strengthen the Y Axis belt mount, and in addition, potentially make it easier to replace the belt. I recommend printing it in PETG or ABS.

Simax3D Iron M1 Y Axis Belt Mount

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