Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5384821.

These books are all intended to go with [reddadsteve's](https://www.thingiverse.com/reddadsteve/designs)  wonderful [Opus Library model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4377837). Big thanks to him for releasing this into the world and for coaching me through some of the machinations of Blender!

I felt like Opus might be shocked by the world today and would need to look to all sources for solutions to todays problems!

My personal library is not complete. I fully expect I'll be adding to it as time permits so check back for new additions! If you make any of your own, please share!

Some of these are originals, some are rescales. I hesitate to call a rescale a remix as all I did was resize them to make them to fit.

Some of the originals are just covers and will need the appropriate pages insert from [reddadsteve's model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4377837). Rather than just using white or ivory for pages in everything, I used colors that I thought might go with the theme of the book. For example, I used a translucent red for the pages in the Necronomicon.

Settings will vary based on filament and desired level of detail. I printed all of mine with PLA of different colors from different manufacturers but I had the best results from Paramount 3D, Polymaker and Duramic.

Some of these are STLs, some are 3MFs as I have parts organized by intended filament color and it was just easier for me. The 3MF files can be found on [Printables here](https://www.printables.com/model/204714-books-for-opus-library) as Thingiverse doesnt support 3MF files.

Some of these do NOT require printing all parts, such as the Halloween Spellbook as my intention was only to have it as a book on a shelf, not a working toy. 

If you print any of these, please take the time to “like” and don't forget share your makes!

If you have any special requests regarding these, please don't hesitate to ask! If it's something I can do to further enhance the library, by all means, I am interrested.

 

Thanks to all the folks below for their wonderful work as well!

Rescales: 

[Harry Potter book by drabisko found here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4050203)

[Secret Book by BODY3D found here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4333760)

[The Monster Book of Monsters by Faeslich found here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4725536)

[Genshin Impact || Barbara's Book by Kyle C. Ho found here](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-genshin-impact-barbara-s-book-141416)

[Halloween Spell book by 3DSIMO found here](https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/halloween-spell-book-box-or-themed-jack-in-the-box)

[Necronomicon by V0g3l found here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4808139)

Books for Opus' Library

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5377136.

This is a remix of the [Lumberjack Engineering design found here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799628). Same issue apply re: clones / off-brands.

I have the MRW cover and related cover interface components installed on my 300ZLT which pretty much renders all of the 1515 rail mount versions incompatible. 

PanelDue 7i Railcore cover friendly mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5327924.

Quick and simple tilted paint rack for Testors enamels.  

[Companion to round racks located here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335841)

I wanted something that would fit nicely in a drawer on an Ikea Alex Drawer unit that would make more paint visible for unopened bottles but maintain visibility on the caps so I could see dried paint dots equally as well. These are designed with a 30 degree tilt which seems to work well for me.

I've included a few different configurations I used while figuring out what worked for me.

I've also included the Fusion 360 file for a single unit that can then be replicated using the "Create Rectangular Pattern" function to create a rack of whatever dimensions others might find practical.

Also setting up a companion rack that fits Model Master / Revell and Humbrol tins.

Would probably work well as a customizer in OpenSCAD but I dont know my way around it well enough yet.

Testors Paint Rack

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335841.

Quick and simple tilted paint rack for Testors' Model Master paint. Also fits Humbrol and Revell. Hole is 33mm so it may work for others as well.

Companion to my [Testors racks here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5327924).

I wanted something that would fit nicely in a drawer on an Ikea Alex Drawer unit that would make more paint visible for unopened bottles but maintain visibility on the caps so I could see dried paint dots equally as well. These are designed with a 30 degree tilt which seems to work well for me.

I've included a few different configurations I used while figuring out what worked for me.

I've also included the Fusion 360 file for a single unit that can then be replicated using the "Create Rectangular Pattern" function to create a rack of whatever dimensions others might find practical.

Would probably work well as a customizer in OpenSCAD but I dont know my way around it well enough yet.

Testors / Model Master paint rack

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5150765.

Modified [jstevewhite's cover interface for railcore](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3569321) to allow the use of a PC4-M10 push-fitting on the inside of the printer so filament could be fed from the outside.

Railcore Cover Interface w/ filament pass-thru

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5338928.

<b>Warning: This project, as designed, calls for a 650nm 5mw laser. NEVER POINT A 
LASER AT ANYONES EYES, INCLUDING YOUR OWN, EVER! That means using proper safety equipment and being aware of reflective surfaces.

BE SMART. BE AWARE. BE SAFE!!! Even low power lasers can cause retinal damage.
 
***BUILD THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!***</b>


Tony Akens was kind enough to make a [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeFGLb8Gf6U) on how to properly acquire calibration distances between each of the bed pivot points and the nozzle. While I found the video super helpful, I got frustrated trying to work my hands and eyes around the print head to take measurements and make markings.


Note:
I am NOT including assembly instructions for this project. If you cannot figure it out from
the photo and parts list, you probably should not be building this. This project requires
knowledge of how to use all tools and parts necessary for completion in a safe manner.


Caveats:
Designed for use with E3DV6 hotend. May work with others.

Parts list:
1 x [650nm red laser protection goggles](https://www.amazon.com/650nm-Protection-Goggles-Safety-Glasses/dp/B075SSJCKX)
1 x M6 nozzle
1 x [2 position SPDT slide switch](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD1SPYG) 
1 x [5mw laser diode cross unit](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L3ZLJ29) 

<b>IF YOU BUY A DIFFERENT LASER,  MAKE SURE YOU GET THE CORRECT SAFETY GOGGLES!</b>

3 x AG13 or compatible 1.5V batteries
2 x M2x4x2.0 heatserts
1 x M2x10mm socket cap screw (laser-side hole)
1 x M2x8mm socket cap screw (nozzle-side hole)
1/16" (or metric equivalent) heat shrink tubing
[Nickle strips for battery terminals](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07811NCH3)
Short length 22AWG wire
Solder
Flux


Tools:
1.5mm Hex key for M2 socket screws
Soldering iron
Heat gun
Cutters to trim terminal strips
Right angle tool to check alignment of laser-to-housing (prior to mounting) and housing-to-print bed.

How to use:

1) [Watch the video.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeFGLb8Gf6U)
2) You will still need to measure the offset to the z-probe as described in the video. The laser tool is too tall to make it easy to measure the distance to the probe. I found that taping a piece of cardboard to the bed and jogging the nozzle down to make in impression or hole in it worked better for me than trying to mess with a pencil.
3) Remove nozzle
4) MAKE SURE HOT END IS TURNED OFF AND THAT IT HAS COOLED TO AMBIENT TEMPERATURE!
5) Lower bed and replace nozzle on print head with alignment tool. 
6) Ensure cross is aligned in x/y with bed by tightening or loosening the tool. Alignment is more important than being tight. A right-angle tool placed against the edge of the bed is helpful in aligning.
7) Move print head in x/y per video above.
8) Center on pivot points using laser and measure from center of cross to pivot points and take notes.
9) complete for all 3 pivots
10) replace tool with nozzle and properly tighten
11) check / remeasure Z-offset
12) Make your config.g updates 

Railcore bed pivot offset laser calibration aid

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5392277.

Wanted a simple, snap-fit spool for filaments from a Paramount3d sample pack.

I've included both 15mm and 30mm versions. Any combination of 2 should snap right together so you could actually make a 22.5mm version if desired.

YASS! (Yet Another Sample Spool!)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5150750.

Modified rail-mount piece for cynical_owl's railcore drag chain ends to be cover-interface friendly.

Railcore Drag Chain Cover friendly inside rail mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4976435.

Case for Zixtec LM2596 buck converter

LM2596 Buck Converter Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5019462.

Simple shelf bracket. 75mm x 30mm

Intended for 10-12cm deep shelves.

Simple shelf bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4983456.

Replacement screw insert to support M8 threaded rod-based universal spool holders.
It is essentially just a cut and rejoin of the spool holder part from wwendorf's thing (below).

Uses frame mount from:
[Filament Spool Holder for Railcore II](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3227257)
Just replace the spool holder part with it and insert M8 threaded rod.

I used the following additional things for mine but it should easily work with anything that's designed around an M8 rod mount. 

Spool Holder:
[Parametric universal spool holder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767317)

Wingnut (for convenience):
[Instant Wingnut Adapter M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121898)

Additional parts:
3 x M8 hex nuts (one for each end and one as a spacer with washers on either side between  the frame mount and inside hub bearing)
4 x M8 washers


Railcore M8 adapter for universal spool holders

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5348852.

Replacement volume knob for Alesis Nitro Mesh DM7X controller.

Picked up kit on C/L for teenage son and rehabbed it. Volume knob was missing
so I printed one up. Figured I'd share it in case anyone else needed one.

Generated by openscad knurled-knob Thing.

Drilled a tiny hole that aligns with hi/low marks on controller and filled with white enamel paint and threw on some clear coat to protect.

Nitro Mesh Controller Volume Knob

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6081911.

Made and tested a Kleenex version (see .stl) and decided to share the parametric .f3d file. 

Parameters are pretty straight forward. 

If you want a long box, you will need to swap out the mouth by editing the Hole Patterns sketch and then editing the Extrude Hole operation. You can change the number of cubes on the long side by altering the lHorizSquares function.

Lastly, it's a long print and it's intended to be a snug fit. As a test to ensure your box of tissue actually fits the way you want it too and not wasting time and materials, I recommend rewinding to just after the “Extrude Hole” function, generate the STL and then use the Prusaslicer “cut” function to print a small cross section. 6mm seems to be rigid enough to gauge fitment.

Enjoy!

Parametric MCM Tissue Box Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5401244.

I made this so I could wire the outlet up to a power supply on my bench and not shock myself because I ran out of insulated disconnects. I figured others might benefit from it.

This is a remake of thing [2234072 by larsch.](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2234072/)
Unfortunately, the original was just a bit too small for the units I bought.

The one fits the version from [Antrader here.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTC5JVV)



Switched AC Inlet housing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5022261.

Loved [gurol's model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839103) but I wanted it to be able to sit upright so I made new lower torso with spot for two extra magnets allowing Megabot to sit upright.

Looks great on a shelf!



Megabot - Sitting

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5079635.

Remix of wwendorf's extremely useful cable clip for Misumi 1515 extrusion.
I wanted a second, separate channel for wiring for my LED lighting kit and 
for [anti-crash kit](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3952941)

Z-axis can be scaled to adjust desired.

This thing is intended to print on-end so consider using a brim based on height.
I found 1mm of brim per 10mm of Z height above 20mm seems to work well.

Misumi 1515 dual channel cable clip

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