This is a 2x3 Gridfinity bin for holding spools of thread. I use it for leatherworking, specifically to hold small spools of Ritza Tiger Thread, but it works for any standard size thread spool.

This model consists of a single cutout that holds six spools of thread and a rectangular cutout conveniently sized for an envelope of John James saddler needles.

This is a bit taller than it has to be to prevent spools from getting knocked out or unwinding, or to prevent a stray arm and/or hammer from clipping the needles and bending them.

Gridfinity Ritza Tiger Thread Spool Holder

Leatherworking_ThreadHolder v2.stl

This is a 2x1 Gridfinity rivet/snap/etc. setter holder. It's intended for a six-piece Craftool Pro rivet-setting set from Tandy but the dimensions of the tools and contents of the kits seem to be pretty standard so it'll probably work for other products as well.

It consists of five circular holes to hold the setting tools and a rectangular slot to hold to the anvil.

This is a pretty tall bin because the tools tend to be heavy and I don't want them falling out.

Gridfinity Leatherworking Rivet-Setter Holder

Leatherworking_RivetSetterHolder.stl

This is a "girdle" that fits around the vertical ballistic missile tubes in the HobbyBoss 1:350 scale Typhoon-class submarine model kit (83532). This is a great kit and one of the only ones that correctly models the submarine's rear below the waterline, but there's a glaring omission: the kit includes the missile tubes and missiles, and can be built with the missile doors open, but nothing supports the tubes.

As can be seen in the photos for this project, this is incorrect: there is in fact support structure for the tubes that appears to be a flat piece (well, many welded pieces) of steel or titanium that attaches to the two pressure hulls on either side.

Issues of correctness aside, this also causes modeling issues. The tubes are fairly tall and are secured by molded protrusions that don't provide any help supporting or aligning them. This results in a tendency for them to splay both side-to-side and bow-to-stern, and it may not be noticeable until you fit the upper hull and can see that they're obviously off-center. Captain Ramius deserves better.

This girdle corrects both problems by holding the tubes upright and providing the correct visible support structure for observers.

Scale model parts are usually best printed in resin but this is simple enough that it shouldn't matter - any decent primer will hide the evidence if you use FDM. The one in my sample photos was made on a Prusa using cheap PLA. It's a tight fit so make sure your printer is calibrated well.

**Modeling Details**
Color photographic evidence is hard to come by but from what I can tell this should be painted the same chromate green as the missile tubes.

The tubes were not inside a pressure vessel and as a result were exposed to seawater when the submarine was submerged, so rust and salt staining is definitely appropriate if you weather the model.

The distance between the support structure and tops of the missile tubes appears to be about half a Russian sailor, so a 2mm or 3mm piece of masking tape is the perfect guide for aligning it vertically on the tubes.

I don't model the pressure hulls since it adds complexity to both the model and the print and there's poor visibility to the front, back, or sides even with the doors open. That said, someone might be able to see the inside of the model's shell from the right angle, so consider either painting the interior black or using a "lip" of black PlastiCard around the girdle to hide the interior completely if you're a stickler for detail.

Missile Girdle for 1:350 Scale Typhoon Submarine Model (HobbyBoss 83532)

Missile Girdle Final.3mf

Do you work in a sea of gray like I do? Are you disorganized like I am? Did you learn, the hard way, that driving a screw into a cubicle wall gets you nothing but disappointment?

This is a hook that allows you to suspend [MultiBoard](https://www.multiboard.io) tiles from a cubicle wall. The single hook currently available is 80mm because that's a typical wide wall size in the US. It's offset from the wall by 15mm and uses the big thread profile.

The sample pictures use [15mm offset snaps and connectors ](https://www.multiboard.io/parts-library/mounting-systems) for the board itself and [8mm "big thread" nuts](https://thangs.com/search/%22MB82%22%20creator%3A%22Keep%20Making%22?scope=thangs&view=list&affiliateCode=tnl) to attach the hooks to the board. The nuts go on from the front of the board.

In exchange for not getting in trouble with your boss and/or facilities department, you have to give up something. These are not and cannot be as strong as a proper wall-mounted setup. My unscientific tests suggest that the setup pictured can hold at least 20 pounds (~10kg), but still I would highly recommend keeping it simple. Use this for your car keys, wallet, pens and pencils, some minor aesthetic things, and the loud keyboard you don't use when other people are around. If you're looking for a solution for holding your full-tower, dual-Xeon workstation, look elsewhere (or, add more hooks and let me know how it works out).

Print settings:
- Printer: Prusa Mk. 4
- Filament: Elegoo Rapid PLA+
- Temp: 215C nozzle, 60C bed
- Layer height: 0.2mm
- Perimeters: 3
- Infill: 15%
- Supports: No
- [MultiBoard thread STEP files used](https://thangs.com/designer/Keep%20Making/3d-model/Big%20Threads%20-%20STEP%20Multiboard%20Remixing%20Files-994679?affiliateCode=tnl)

Multiboard-Compatible Cubicle Hangars

Cube Hook 80mm.3mf

A display tray to hold the models from the Lego Insect Collection. The tray can be used by itself, but I've also included a Multiboard-compatible mount so it can be mounted as well.

The tray is designed so that the top of the model base fits mostly flush with the lip. The "octagons" on the lego set have two different edge lengths and the interior shelf of the tray has corresponding long edges and short edges. The model should sit flat when it's aligned correctly. The OUTSIDE of the tray, however, has eight equal edge lengths so it can fit in any orientation in the holder.

The holder is designed to use with two Multiboard push-fit snaps. It's 13.5mm tall and is tapered so the tray fits inside it securely without any fasteners. It's also offset from the board by about 25mm so the beetle's giant wings clear it. As you can see in the last picture, it's top-heavy and I have to hold it on my sample board tile. As such, I'd strongly recommend securing it to a Multiboard that is wall-mounted, pole-mounted, or cleat-mounted, NOT one that uses feet.

For additional security against overzealous dusting, I use museum putty to hold the models in their trays, and more museum putty to hold the tray in its holder once I have it aligned in a way I like.

Print Info:
- Printer: Prusa Mk. 4
- Filament: Elegoo Rapid PLA+
- Temp: 215C nozzle, 60C bed
- Infill: 15%
- Supports: No

- [The Multiboard System](https://www.multiboard.io)
- [MultiBoard Push-Fit Templates](https://thangs.com/designer/Keep%20Making/3d-model/Push-Fits%20-%20STEP%20Multiboard%20Remixing%20Files-994678?affiliateCode=tnl)

Lego Insect Display Tray - Multiboard Compatible

Lego Insect Display Tray v1.3mf

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Gridfinity Ritza Tiger Thread Spool Holder

Gridfinity Leatherworking Rivet-Setter Holder

Missile Girdle for 1:350 Scale Typhoon Submarine Model (HobbyBoss 83532)

Multiboard-Compatible Cubicle Hangars

Lego Insect Display Tray - Multiboard Compatible