I modified https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151810 so my direct drive extruder doesn't smack into it when mounted on the top rail. 

## Remixes: 
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151810 by (Venares)[https://www.thingiverse.com/Venares]

BigTreeTech Smart Filament Detector

I modified https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151810 so my direct drive extruder doesn't smack into it when mounted on the top rail. 

## Remixes: 
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4151810 by (Venares)[https://www.thingiverse.com/Venares]

## Origin
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4820853

<a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/"><img alt="Creative Commons License" style="border-width:0" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by/4.0/88x31.png" /></a><br />This work is licensed under a <a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License</a>.

BTT_SFDM_end_mount.stl

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4848479.

A very simple but well fitting Z-max physical endstop for the Ender 3 and other printers that use a 2020 frame and v-rollers.

Recent Marlin uses #define MECHANICAL_GANTRY_CALIBRATION to provide a menu option and G-code to align dual-Z motors, it even works on two steppers working on one driver and is a port from prusa firmware. There's a second variant that requires two stepper drivers that uses the bed probe that can cause bed skew to drift as it levels from the bed and then you level the bed from the gantry and repeat...

You should have TMC steppers in UART mode to drop the current to use the G34 method, but I was disabling the steppers and winding both screws up by hand so the rollers hit the stops then homing. Before that I was resorting to two blocks under the gantry which meant finding what I'd done with them.

Anyway, the Ender 3 style frame needs these stops for all this to work and I made some that are a really good fit on the frame. The long tab is the top and this prints strongest as the stl is supplied on one side with some supports. It prints easy with the 3 tabs sticking up and no support but it's not as strong. I used cheap pla+ and it seems to be strong enough, but I printed it solid.

It's designed for M5x16 screws and you will have to tap a thread in the 2020 extrusion. Remove it from the frame before doing this as the screws securing it to the upright get in the way.

Here's a video of it in action, it explains better than I can. https://youtu.be/CWfAdz4vtpY

Z Endstop for Dual Z alignment G34

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707613.

Movement tray/base for a 1992 board game from the workshop for battle with the masters

Movement Base for Battle with the Masters

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4767786.

My generic keyboard shelf runners were missing one of the rubber endcaps, so i made some. 

V5 Has tighter tolerences and prints in TPU, but the .f3d is fuly parametric. Athough the chances sre if you ave F360 you already made yoyr own.

If you can't print flexibles, use V2, PET-G is just flexible enough, I think it might be better in hard TPU but I dont have any. PLA shattered on me getting it to fit. Covers sharp end nicely though.

keyboard shelf runner end bumper

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4899304.

# Ender 3 v2 Hydra Mount

Part removed from thingiverse due to their anti-adblocker system requiring me to turn off all of Firefox's tracking protection. This is intrusive and I don't like it. I don't run an adblocker, but I like my privacy. Part is available at https://github.com/strayr/small-fff-projects/tree/main/E3V2_Hydra

## Description

Added an extra tab tab to cut down on some of the rocking moments that an DD extruder can introduce. It's just a bit more rigidly mounted to the X carriage. Has been working really well for me for months, although I think my initial problems that caused me to design this may have been a partial blockage. Either way my setup is really stiff, which makes for really accurate pressure control, which gives really tidy corners and seams on fast prints.

First published on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4899304

Remixes: 
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707481 by (newphreak)[https://www.thingiverse.com/newphreak]
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242 by (BoothyBoothy)[https://www.thingiverse.com/BoothyBoothy]

License: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/



Reenforced E3V2 Hydra Bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4764162.

I print at least one vase mode 40mm cube for every filament roll that shows up. I have lots. I thought I'd make them useful by making a lid that would turn them into desiccant holders for both my storage boxes and my print boxes.

Should be a friction fit but for a loose cube a few dots from a filament pen, or hot glue sorts it out.

Uses the vase mode cube in this knowledge made article https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257

http://prusa3d.com/downloads/others/cube-40-40-40.zip


Dessicant cap for 40mm extrusion multiplier cube

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4742888.

All the existing arms have the opening wehere myu filament comes in so I made a new ring for the arm I like best.

I've thrown just the ring and the step for it up as well in case anyone finds it useful

If I can get the STEP I'll tidy it up some.

End Caps for Open V-Slot 2020 with Open Hardware logo.

This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515


Ender 3 Filament Guide for rear + wall + overhead spools

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