**Disclaimer!!! Do not use this to dispose of radioactive material :)**

An overcomplicated but interesting storage place for my classroom sticky balls (I know that sounds terrible).

Easy Print! 

No supports needed!

Some gluing and painting required. 

Use M3*30 (or longer) to secure hinge at the back.

***Inner diameter of barrel is 65mm/ Hight 105mm

Radiation Disposal Bin (***Do Not Use For Radioactive Disposal***)

Barrel.stl

This model is a _customization pack_ for The Ultimate Collapsible Lightsaber/Twinsaber model. You can find the base model and printing instructions here:

https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/The%20Ultimate%20Collapsible%20Lightsaber%2FTwinsaber%20%28Extremely%20Durable%20Hilt%29-1161756?source=Recent

*Note*
Use "Joiner Pommel" in this model if you want to join two swords. This joiner pommel has been altered to ensure the sword faces line up.


Ronin Collapsible Lightsaber (Customization Pack)

RON08-02.stl

**Check out the Ronin Customization Pack here:**
https://thangs.com/designer/pneulegend/3d-model/Ronin%20Collapsible%20Lightsaber%20%28Customization%20Pack%29-1165101?source=All+Files



Most lightsaber hilts print standing up, making them prone to break along the layer lines. With my multi-part hilt design, I was able to avoid the fragility of layer lines while also allowing for color customization. 

**Assembly:**
I designed this model to assemble without glue. However, you can glue the parts together for a permanent and more robust result. 

**Printing:**
All parts were printed on Ender S1 Plus, but parts also fit on 220X220 build plates. 
I printed and tested parts with 0.4mm nozzle. 
No supports required.
Print the core halves and calibration ring first. The calibration ring should be used to ensure the jacket parts fit “snugly” over the core. If the calibration ring slides too freely over the core, adjust your X and Y values in your slicer software to compensate before printing jacket parts.

**Material:**
I used PETG for all parts. You can also use PLA (hilt only). 
I printed all my hilt parts at 100% infill to give weight to the hilt, but if you want to save on filament you can print with 2-4 wall lines and 15% infill.

**Blades:**
Blades should be printed in vase mode, at 0.9 line width. 
(I got best results printing slowly 25mm/s with 20% fan. But different filaments might have different results)

**TwinBlade Mod:**
I designed a joiner pommel to allow two swords to be joined. This pommel is printed in two parts lying down and joined by a wedge to ensure maximum strength. Again, glue is not necessary, but glue can be used for a more permanent and robust result. 

The Ultimate Collapsible Lightsaber/Twinsaber (Extremely Durable Hilt)

Saber Core Part 1 .stl

blade1.stl

blade2.stl

blade3.stl

blade4.stl

blade5.stl

Futuristic-looking, semi-automatic disk launcher. Launches 10, 30mm disks in under 5 seconds.

Frame:
Model frame should be printed on its back (as shown in slicer photo), no supports required. For best results print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2 resolution.

Trigger and Launcher:
Print with PETG at max wall-line count for optimal strenght.

Disk:
Print disk with 0.3mm or 0.2mm nozzle.


Please post your makes, and feel free to leave suggestions!

Thanks, Enjoy!!!

Nitro Disk Launcher

Nitro Disk Launcher Frame (Band Version).stl

Disk.stl

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Radiation Disposal Bin (Do Not Use For Radioactive Disposal)

Ronin Collapsible Lightsaber (Customization Pack)

The Ultimate Collapsible Lightsaber/Twinsaber (Extremely Durable Hilt)

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