Noxious odors emanating after a gastrointestinal event?  Well reach for the Yankee Candle Concentrated Room spray located nearby in this handy spray holder.  Two versions are available, on plain and the other with a noxious odor logo.  

I printed it flat, with support for the internal parts, but you should be able to print upright.

Yankee Candle Spray Holder

SprayHolder-logo3.STL

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2980893.

As DrZzs call this; Jumper Holder Thingy

Some of the new Sonoff Basics ( and probably others ) are being delivered with solder filling the  serial programming interface.   

So if you want to flash it, you need to either remove the solder or you will need some dexterity to hold your 4 wires (Vcc, Gnd, RX, TX) to the proper point, depress the button, plug in your USB UART TTL adapter (3.3 volts only), release the button and flash the device. Do-able, but difficult.

That's where this clip comes in. Print it, put in pogo-pins in , connect to your USB UART TTL adapter and it will hold the pins to the right connectors.

The pogo pins I am using are P75-E2 Convex Tip Metal Spring Test Probe Pin, 1.5 mm Diameter.  Link here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YPQ6ZK/  


Update:  I found over a little time, the pressure was reducing on the pogo pins to the board, resulting in having to add a rubber band or squeeze the pins a little while programming.   So the result is V5.  I have added a 3/8" x 2" (10mm x 50mm ) Barrel spring other types would work, just dont want too much pressure.  This seems to work very nicely.  I will leave v4 in here also.  

Note:  Rotate  model so it sits flat in your slicer for printing.





Sonoff Basic Programming Clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2828627.

NEW VERSION FAN DUCT..............................


HE3D K200 is a good delta, but is slightly different from the 'standard' kossel based machines.  As for the kossel, I am using the mini kossel as defined here ( https://github.com/jcrocholl/kossel ) as the standard reference.
First, the distance between the rods is 42 mm ( as opposed to 40 on the kossel ) and the other difference is the distance from the towers to the build platform is small.  What his means is you need to keep all hot end accessories as close to the effector as close as possible, else you will limit your max build.  

My requirements:
1- E3D V6 hot end
2- Autolevel - Optical Sensor
3- 2 part cooling fans and 1 hot end fan ( for a total of 3 )
4- Minimum loss of build volume

Credit:
I have scoured the entire INTERNET ( and did indeed reach the end ( http://endoftheinternet.com/ )) looking for suitable designs either to use in its entirety or glean ideas from.  Since the K200 has that @#!$ 42mm spacing, my selection of use as-is choices are limited.  So, I decided to create my own, using existing designs and ideas. Major design influences are  listed below, but all designs may have had subtle effects on my thinking process and design. 
 
Effector: The E3D V6 Clamp above the effector is extremely common, there is no one person I can point to to thank.  So thanks to the entire community. I also put in a 1mm recess for the z-probe ( Autolevel ).

Autolevel:  The main design idea cam from Thingiverse user wallie for the Z-probe mount with optical switch located here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:605729 I heavily modified it to fit, but the concept is his.  I also used the footprint for the retractable ( z-probe ) mount.

Fan Shroud: The basis of the design belongs to Thingiverse user Hatsyflatsy for his Triple fan holder 30mm located here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2459766 .  Here I modified it for a closer hotend cooling fan and also added the E3D V6 heatsink clip to the piece.

All parts were designed in SOLIDWORKS and placed in an assembly to verify alignment.  SOLIDWORKS is an amazing tool.  

Parts Required other than the Effector, Clip, Autolevel mount and fan shroud
3-  30x30x10 fans.
12- #4x5/8 sheetmetal screws to mount the fans.
2-  3mm x 16 Socket Cap Head screws ( E3D Clip )
2-  3mm x 10 Socket Cap Head screws  ( Autolevel mount )
2-  3mm x  Socket Cap Head screws  ( Optical Sensor Mounting)
4-  3mm Nuts ( Autolevel mount and E3D Clip )
1-  2mm x 10 Socket Cap Head screws ( attach fan shroud and effector )
1-  1.5mm hex ( Allen ) key or similar ( Actual Z-probe )

Update 02/06/2019:
I have been using it for about a month now and I am very pleased with it.  A couple of notes:
1- put a thin washer in between the effector and the fan shroud on the 2mm socket cap screw.  This will keep a small separation so that the rod ball joints do not hit the part cooling fans.
2- With the 2 part cooling fans, I now normally run 70% fan speed..
3- I put on a silicone sock on the E3D heater.  This helps stabilize temperatures.  It is a good idea anyway.
4- The part cooling fan outlet is close to the same level as the bottom of the nozzle.  Just check your installation to make sure it does not go any lower..

UPDATE 02/11/2019
Made the following changes to improve the Fan Shroud Only.  All other parts the same.
1- Made the top ( where it meets the effector) 1..5 mm taller so that the washer ( #1 above) is not required, and the Diagonal Rod Ball Joints have clearance.
2- Re enforced the fan outlet duct to the body with larder fillets.  One of my outlet ducts snapped to this should correct it. 
3-  Eliminated the small gap where the heat sink cooling fan was allowing air to hit the heat block.

-I have lowered my standard fan to 50% ( was 70 in the notes above ) but maximum is still 100 ( for bridging.)
-Silicone Heat Sock is still recommended.
-Double check you installation at z=0 to make sure the fan duct does not hit the bed. 
 

HE3D K200 HotEnd Assembly

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4133801.

I decided to install TLSmoothers on my Anycubic Predator and I really really liked SolidRye's Anycubic Predator TL Smoother Holder here-> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3794073.  I ordered my smoothers ( I like TriangleLabs products and I wanted a heatsink ) and printed SolidRyes holder.   Much to my dismay, my parts did not fit the holder.  Upon a closer examination (well most would say a cursory examination aka look at the pictures and THINK), I see that SolidRyes smoothers are different from mine.        Bummer.....

So, whats an avid 3Der to do............

Using his design as inspiration I created a holder for a single TL ( as in TriangleLabs ) TLSmoother.  This will work on the AC Predator and any other 2020 (or 3030) like extrusions.  

So here it is, 3 iterations later; the TL TLSmoother holder.
Files included are pictures, the obligatory stl ( whats a thing without an stl?) and the next to final blender design file.  
The only difference between this design file ( *3.blend) and the final *4) is that the clip objects are not locked down with a Boolean Union so you can push/pull/tweek/move/etc if you like. 

The Tl-TLSmoother slides in to holder so it will not fall out. 

So there you have it.  Hope you like it and is useful.  Again, thanks to SolidRye for the inspiration.

P.S. not sure if this is a remix, as it is redesigned from scratch, but it has the same license agreement as his and I give SolidRye credit for the initial design, so it probably does not matter.

A TL TL Smoother Holder 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2558378.

The HE3d K200 has a small piece of acrylic that mounts to the corner frame and receives the adjustment bolt.  The design leaves a little to be desired.  While this modification is not perfect ( a better one would probably attach to both side of each corner piece ) I do believe it is better.  
The source thing has a recessed hole, space for a 4mm washer, and a recessed hole for the 3mm nut.  
The changes for this design include correcting the distance between holes (mounting to adjustment) to what the HE3D needs ( as opposed to what the Anycubic needs) and also recessed the spring hole to capture the spring from moving.

Included is the openscad source file so you can change the clearance of the nut, spring and bolt holes as required for your printer ( the one printing the part).  I do not suggest you change other sizes as it my surprise you as to what you get. (i.e. non-elegant way to get the shape I wanted )

Thanks to TheManMall for his initial design and to PeterH on the He3d delta printer owner group for pointing me to TheManMall's solution

He3d K200 Heat Bed Adjustable Sprint Mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2482409.

On my davinci jr, I replaced the Bowden feeder and mounted it outside the unit.  There is a filament sensor that is in the stock feeder that I wanted to keep.  I also wanted my Raspberry Pi to be mounted inside the unit so I created this bracket.  
There are two versions of this.  First is a solid bracket, and the other is honeycomb.


This is designed in openSCAD.  

Thanks to EvanCarlsen for the honeycomb generator code in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1652822 that I used and 
to mattjoyce for his parametric 90 degree code in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2366480 that I used.

RPi Filament Sensor Mount for the da Vinci Jr

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2483023.

I wanted to test reading NTAG213 RFID cards, so looking through the internet, I found the schematic to connect a PN532 card to an Arduino Nano using the SPI interface.  With code available thru ebay, I have a functioning card reader.

Created in openSCAD

Thanks to raster and is Arduino Nano Holder , thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1586850 for the code for the basic nano holder.
and KitWallace for showing how to use the fonts



RFID Tag Scanner Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3315698.

UPDATE.  DO NOT USE.  The user tested out this clip and the S31 board is too loose to have stable connections on the pins.   Without an S31 device to use to model, I cannot correct this.  See comment section .........   Sorry.


A user requested a 6 pin version because the Sonoff S31 outlet has 6 pins on the serial port connector ( VCC, 2 pairs of RX/TX and then GND).  My standard sonoff basic clip only has 5 pins.

Print it, put in pogo-pins in , connect to your USB UART TTL adapter and it will hold the pins to the right connectors.

The pogo pins I am using are P75-E2 Convex Tip Metal Spring Test Probe Pin, 1.5 mm Diameter. Link here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YPQ6ZK/


Note: Rotate model so it sits flat in your slicer for printing.

Note2:  I have not made this myself, as I do not have a S31 outlet.  

Sonoff 6 pin Programming clip.

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3029152.

Made https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9325 , but noticed the bar clamp had about 2 mm of extra room in it.  I created a new look-a-like, but removing 1.5 mm of that space.

This goes with thing 9325 and the rest of those parts are required for a complete bottle cutter.

Thanks to 4ndy for his original design.

Rail Clamp for bottle cutter 

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