Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5349728.

This covered water bowl is intended for goslings or similar water foul who need to be able to stick their head into the water to drink, while preventing them from turning it into a poultry wading pool.

Water bowl for goslings or ducklings

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5330075.

I needed a mounting bracket for a Tekonsha Primus IQ brake controller. The Primus IQ is an older style than the more common Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller series, and uses a slightly different mounting tab setup. Since there were no existing models available, I produced this quick sketch in FreeCAD to fit my needs.

It could be prettier, it could be fancier, but this is enough to hold your brake controller nice and secure.

Tekonsha Primus IQ mounting bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5255435.

This is a simple remix of the Oculus strap lock without the extra peg on the base, so it can be used as a full replacement for the stock switch strap lock button. You will still need the spring from your original broken button.

Switch Remote Strap Lock Button

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4806200.

This bracket is designed to hold a Meanwell RS-15-5 power supply, as well as [this HiLetGo "D1 mini" relay shield](https://smile.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Relay-Shield-Module-WeMos/dp/B01NACU547) with the +5v ground and signal wires soldered directly to the board.

The intent of this item is as a standby power supply for a modified Anycubic Mega Zero, where the mainboard itself has Marlin configured to be able to call for full power from the primary 350w 24v supply at will. It is also compatible with octoprint and it's enclosure module or similar.

I've added a second version of the "top" piece with a double drilled hole to give more space for larger diameter wiring, as the first version is a VERY tight fit with 4 runs of my high voltage power wiring through it, and adding the servo cable seems likely to cause damage.  It's a bit of a hack, but gets the job done if you want to use a heavier gauge wire for switching the higher wattage power supply.

Mega Zero under bed standby power bracket (Meanwell RS-15-5)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799503.

I wanted to locate a LRS-350-24 under the center of the Anycubic Mega Zero while adding a heated bed, but couldn't find any mounting options which were intended for this. Fortunately, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4341934 already existed for the Ender-3 and with some mild adaptation seems to be up to the task pretty well.

UPDATE: The model has been edited to include a slotted screw hole on the power terminal cover end, this should make things easier to assemble since you can start the screws into their holes before collapsing and inserting the whole assembly up into the bottom of your printer frame as a unit now.

FreeCAD projects are included if anyone else would like to make changes. The front piece was done in two projects as a workaround when needing to export and reimport as a mesh to avoid crashing bugs, or maybe just a general lack of knowledge with what I'm doing in FreeCAD so far

Anycubic Mega Zero under bed power supply (LRS-350-24)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5191028.

This is a modded version of the "Badnoob" AB-BN 28 (also AB-BN 30) Dragon hotend rear half, with a simple BLTouch probe mount added off the left hand side. The vertical offset is non-exact so you still need to space things out with some springs or a stack of M3 nuts or washers as needed.

This was mostly just a quick hack to move my probe mount off the Ender-5 backplate so I could reuse my existing Voron Afterburner and finish the conversion over to the ZeroG Mercury One coreXY platform and print a new EVA hotend mount instead.

Modifications made with FreeCAD.

AB-BN 30 Dragon Hotend BLTouch mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4811910.

This is nearly identical to the original https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631288 except the "middle" section between the fan and the flat bottom area has been reduced in height to 80% to accommodate the slightly shorter Creality Ender compatible MK8 style hot end.

If you have clearance issues between the printed duct and the corner of the metal fan shroud on your printer, you can briefly heat that area of the printed part with a lighter, and then press it up flush in place and it will form-fit that extra half mm or so if required to get things 'flush' for a perfectly level alignment.

Update 4/29/21, A second version of the duct with a different mounting attachment has been created. This version will properly attach onto the Creality branded 24v Ender-3 fans as well. As the mounting attachment is less sturdy, there's also now a third hanger eyelet on the right side of the duct to provide a paperclip tie off point to keep it from drooping out of level. The original v1 duct with the stock mounting for the stock 12v AMZ1 fans is still available for download if you prefer that version.

The FreeCAD project will be available from my github, but it's apparently over the Thingiverse size limit.

Mega Zero shorter ring cooling duct upgrade (MK8 compatible)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4970162.

My wife thought the "Curvy Pen Pencil Holder" by SpaceDog3D would make a good orchid pot, but it needed drainage in the bottom. This is the result.

Curvy Orchid Pot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4810003.

NOTE: This is for the AMZ version 1, the new Mega Zero v2 seems to need the mounting point resized a bit before this will fit. The FreeCAD project is included if someone else would care to remix things to fit that version, or I may try to come back and update this later myself if I have the opportunity.


After seeing variations of the filament guide, I decided to make my first "from scratch" freecad project. This filament sensor for the Anycubic Mega Zero re-uses the "go big" filament guide wheels from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683505 that I had already printed. I also copied some of the dimensions for the screw less mounting bracket slot from that same project to ensure a similar perfect fit of my design.

The sensors are inspired by the idea behind https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319350 and the wiring and configuration should be similar.

Switches should be wired in series, in their normally open positions, so that they are "closed" when the filament sensor is depressed and the tangle arm is in it's relaxed position. The circuit should be connected when in a printing-ready state. Switches should be connected between signal and ground on the filament sensor plug on your board. Marlin can then be set to read them in the same manner as the endstop, where either switch being triggered will activate a pause in marlin while awaiting user intervention.

My Marlin/Configuration.h contains the following changes:

\#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR

\#define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE     HIGH
\#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP

I used [these amazon microswitches](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW3W79B/) and modified them by pulling the metal arm off with pliers as required. These are also conveniently compatible with [this excellent allen key bed probe](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574066) that is also designed for the Mega Zero.

### 4/10/21 v1.1b
Repaired the missing filament guide tube that should have been present in v1.1

### 4/9/21 v1.1
Updated to allow reverse feeding of filament through the runout sensor, allowing for direct mechanical attachment to the extruder intake tube without jamming on runout. Also add a zip-tie loop to remove strain from the electrical connections.

### 3/29/21 v1.0
Initial public version

Mega Zero combination filament runout and tangle sensor

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4787203.

This is an adaptation of the [Anycubic Mega Zero SKR Mini V2.0 Enclosure](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4584262), to be printable as two flanged pieces to give better top surface quality.

The USB hole has also been enlarged slightly to allow the use of stock Creality v4 boards with the same mounting screw pattern, but a slightly wider USB micro plug. Giving an even lower cost option for a silent board with native heated bed support.

The flanged parts attach together using M2 screws and nuts, 4mm will work but will only catch about half of the nut, M2x5mm recommended.

4/9/21 - A second version of the rear half with an additional hole for a kill switch button has been added. I used [these buttons from Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XXLHLT6/) but most 1/4" buttons should fit fine.

8/5/21 - An alternate "big hole" version of the front is available now, where the encoder knob opening has been enlarged and offset a bit to fit a Creality Ender stock display as well. Also, a version without the side mounting tab has been posted, which works quite well as a stand alone case when reusing an old or damaged v4 board as a stand alone hot-end heater for repair or cleaning work on the bench.

Two piece Mega Zero enclosure for Creality v4 board or SKR Mini-E3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4946479.

This is a simplified version of the low poly plant pot drip tray, without the clip connectors. This was remixed specifically for [this orchid pot](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3439462), though my printed version of it had been scaled down in size.

Octogon Drip Tray (simplified)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4801089.

If you have a pair of M3x20mm screws around you should use [this replacement fan shroud and duct](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419531) instead. It replaces the whole assembly, and fits perfectly on the Anycubic Mega-Zero v1 with an MK8 end, just move the existing fans over.

For anyone else who wants to attempt this, I did have to modify the bottom of the stock metal fan shroud with a Dremel for clearance of the new block and sock.

This is a 2mm shorter version of the factory "wind nozzle" blower fan duct. I needed a quick replacement that was compatible with a Creality MK8 (Ender-5) hot end with a titanium all-metal heat break, as the creality hot end combo is slightly shorter than the factory part.

FreeCAD project is provided as well.

Mega Zero Creality MK8 hot end (Ender-3) compatible fan duct

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5247675.

This is a relatively quick design of a servo based nozzle brush for an ender-5 style cube frame.

You will need an F695-2RS bearing and an Hitech HS-225MG servo, and a [basic wood handle brass brush](https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Brass-Brush-Tooth-Brushes/dp/B07FN6K9J9/) as found in many hardware stores, and some M3 5x4 heatset thread inserts, M3x20 bolts, and M5x8 bolts and T-nuts (Or the holes in the corner need a slight adjustment to line up with the stock threads)

The stock brush arm size fits my specific printer, with a ZeroG Merc1.1 EVA with a Dragon HF hotend and a 12" bed using the ZeroG "hydra" kinematic mount system.

The FreeCAD project is included for anyone else to customize the arm thickness as required for their own printer setup.

Print all parts flat side down with no supports. When assembling, you need to mount the servo bracket to the frame only tight enough to stay in place under gravity but still be a sliding fit. Then test fit the assembly to get the proper height to tighten up the bracket body. Once the body bracket is in place, slide in the servo/arm/corner assembly straight in, then add the end cap and all 4 screws, testing to ensure the servo doesn't start to bind throughout it's movement.

Here's [a short video of it in action](https://youtube.com/shorts/oigPHtdPFxo).

Mercury One (Ender-5) servo nozzle brush

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4911925.

This direct connection adapter from a "v6" top to an M10x0.9 thread was designed to attach a BTT Smart Filament Sensor onto a "BMG" extruder on my Flsun Q5. It should also work on the original Titan extruder as well.. The first version is the "listed" PC4 fitting thread size, the v2 version has the threads scaled up to 110% to (~M11x1.0) and is a better fit in my BTT smart filament sensor.

A new version 3 is out, this is a bit more of a specialty item than just a thread fitting, however it fits great in my smart filament sensor, and removes the need to use a tube insert.

Smart filament sensor to v6 extruder clamp coupler

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4792296.

This is a modular webcam mount with a 15mm span to fit the cheapest (currently $6) unbranded hardware encoding webcam found on amazon. The "HUICCN HD 1080p".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089N79LKR/

"HD 1080P" webcam mount (15mm span)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4908525.

This is a universal hanging mounting bracket for the [Planet Audio P350MB](https://smile.amazon.com/Planet-Audio-P350MB-Multimedia-Stereo/dp/B08KRRKQXF/), and very likely fits additional 1-DIN head units that share the same retaining ring clip mounts on the sides.

I designed this to be able to mount a 12v car radio under the workbench in the front of my enclosed car hauler, though it should be useful for just about anywhere you'd like to be able to hang a radio.

The FreeCAD project file is included in case anybody would care to adapt this bracket to fit other devices or mounting styles.

Planet Audio P350MB Mouting Bracket

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4829497.

This is an enclosure to mount [this IEC320 C14 fuse and switch combo](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQV2NPN/) onto the back of the 4040 rails on a Mega Zero.

I did additionally have to tap threads into the rear of the 4040 extrusion, as the holes didn't come pre-threaded from the factory.

The FreeCAD project is available if anyone wants to tweak things as well.

Mega Zero IEC320 rear mount enclosure

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4797709.

This is a simple FreeCAD drawing and .stl model of a drilling template to fit a stock Creality brand hotbed, with the holes placed 170mm center to center.

The template itself is sized so the corners will touch but not cover the existing mounting holes in the Anycubic Mega Zero Y carriage plate, and was designed to assist in proper alignment for drilling new mounting holes to accommodate an upgrade to a stock heated bed intended for an Ender-3 or compatible.

Holes are sized to drill as 1/8" (3.175mm) which will give plenty of clearance for the stock Anycubic M3 bed mount screws. There shouldn't be any major problems if you need to drill out to 4mm or a bit more.

Creality/Ender bed screw drilling template for Anycubic Mega Zero

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5089972.

When printed in vase mode, this cap will fit over the bottom of a 3.5" aquarium intake filter to prevent air bubbles from a bubbler placed below being pulled into the hang-on-back filter.

Specifically, this exactly fits when using the [Aquarium Co-op Large Pre Filter Sponge](https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/sponge-filters/products/large-pre-filter-sponge) with a [Top Fin® Silenstream™ PF40](https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-pumps/filters/top-fin-silenstreamandtrade-power-filter-5262297.html) filter as comes in this [37 Gallon Top Fin® Essentials Aquarium Starter Kit](https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262266.html).

If you have a different size filter and would like to make changes, the FreeCAD project file is included so you can make changes.

Aquarium 3½" Pre Filter Bubble Guard

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5116592.

This is a quick print mounting plate to let you attach a Pi 4 onto the M4 threaded holes on top of the Flsun Q5 power supply.

This is useful if you want to keep all of the electronics inside the stock Q5 case.

Pi Plate (simple raspberry pi 4 mount)

Activity related to collaborating with others on models

Likes, comments, and activity from your community

A roundup of models that we think you'll like

For when we think someone might have posted your content as their own

New content from your premium memberships

Emails and messages from designers you follow

ksanislo

Achievements

Seedling

Debutant