**Summary**

This is a simple magnetic cooling system which makes cleanup and accessing the hot end extremely easy. It uses 8 neodymium magnet for an old BLDC motor. They can hold 700gm-800gm easily, which is more than enough for this setup. We connect all the electronics using JST HX connectors. There are 2 5015 blower fans for the part cooling, we can set them to 50-60% speed, making the machine quieter and not losing any cooling.

Note: This design is for the stock ender 3 plate and other similar printers with stock hot end. 
Note: This design is for the stock ender 3, ender 3 V2 plate and other similar printers with stock hot end. 

**Update 15-5-2022**

1. Base plate for ender3 V2 (needs testing)
2. LED bar without threaded inserts


**Part list**

12mmx4mmx1.5mm magnets *8
5015 blower fan *2 
4040 fan *1 (stock)
M3 10mm button head screw * 8
M3 5mm countersunk screw * 2
M4 20mm screw and nut * 2
2 pin male and female JST XHP-2 connector * 1 (optional)
4 pin male and female JST XHP-4 connector * 1
M3 3mm threaded inserts * 12 (can be done with using 7)
Wire 
Super glue 
Led light (this is optional as I have made my own using 6 5050 LEDs connected in series on a general purpose PCB)

**Optional**

JST XHP-2 connector male and female
Led light

**Print instructions** 

I have shown the print orientation for all the parts in the photos.

Material : PETG/ ABS

Layer height: 0.2mm

Infill: 15% 

Wall count: 3 or 4

Print speed 60mm/s

Supports: enabled (support on build plate only)

 

**Plans for V2**

Replacing the JST connector with some other contact type connector like pogo pins
More accessible duct height adjustment
Alignment pins
Adding support for other hot ends
 

download the PDF for detailed build instructions with photos.

**If you like what I'm doing, consider supporting me**
https://paypal.me/Jimit5

**I also do freelance work email:** jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com

RBJ magnetic cooling system

Main Body.stl

Base Plate With ABL Mount For Eender3 V2.stl

Base Plate Without ABL Mount For Eender3 V2.stl

LED Light with threaded inserts.stl

LED Light.stl

**Update I have removed the schematic file, it's now only available if you purchase the guide and code. This adds value to my product and is fair to the people who actually purchase the kit.
**


**Summary**

The purpose of making this was to eliminate remembering all the important shortcuts and complex key combinations. Each shortcut can be mapped to an individual key and can be activated with a single keystroke.

It uses an Arduino pro micro as the brain 29 mechanical switches and some basic parts like diode and RGB led 

**Print instructions **

Print the key caps with 0.12mm layer height. We can print you everything else at 0.2 mm.

We do not need supports for anything I have everything is optimized for. support less printing and better bed adhesion. You can still use rafts and z-hop for keys.

**Build Instructions (steps 5,6,7,10 is optional)**

Print out all parts which include faceplate, base, and keycaps a total of 34 (cover for the rotary encoder and knob is optional).
faceplate and keycaps need some cleanup.
Insert the switches into the faceplate and wire them up like the schematic. You can also add the diodes using single strand wire helps keep everything clean.
Solder everything to the Arduino (I have used male and female header pins for easy access) and stick the Arduino to the bottom with double-sided tape make sure to keep the wires small so that everything fits.
connect the ws2812b led strip to the Arduino as shown in schematic and stick the strip at the bottom 
If you are using the rotary encoder, solder the wires to the pin header and glue it in place.
Assemble the rotary encoder parts and solder the header pins using some wire refer photos if needed, use super glue to fix it in place.
check everything and push the wires in  
screw the faceplate to the body using the 2.4mm screws.
Firmly press the keycaps onto the switch stems.
Add some self-adhesive anti-skid pads at the bottom
Upload the firmware and make actions in Photoshop done
**
 Required parts:**

5V Arduino Pro Micro
29 Cherry MX Switches
1 tack switch (for reset)
rotary encoder (optional)
ws2812b Led Strip (optional)
8 2.4mm-8mm plastic screw 
2 M3-10mm screw
1.5-2mm screws for rotary encoder can use super glue
self-adhesive anti-skid pads

 You will also need a USB cable, wire, solder, and a piece of double-sided tape.

**Optional:**

2x12 Pin Male and Female Connector
1x4 Pin Male and Female Connector



If you like what I'm doing, consider supporting me
https://paypal.me/Jimit5

**I also do freelance work email: jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com**

Macropad for photoshop

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5254786.

I made this 3d printed mod to reposition the RB LB BUTTONS so that the trigger and button can be pressed using only one finger This reduces the constant need to shift your fingers up and down or having to hold the controller in an uncomfortable way  The placement of the buttons is exactly where your fingers naturally rests and allows you to hold the controller more firmly 

check the attached pdf for instructions, parts list, print settings and some photos. 

You loose wireless function so its not for everyone I understand 

Performing this mod voids your warranty and the creator of this mod is not responsible for any damage caused to your controller you and only you are responsible for any or all damage caused. 


If you like my work and it helps you in anyway consider tipping
https://paypal.me/Jimit5
 
I also do freelance work email : jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com 

Xbox colntroller MOD

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5222377.

We all hate the coin cells used in cheap calipers. They are outdated and always run out when you need them the most. The problem is not with the batteries but the calipers themselves as they only turn the screen off when the OFF button is pressed so a normal switch would also solve the problem but why not take it a step above and solve the problem of changing batteries once and for all.
 
I'm using a voltage divider to drop the voltage from 3.7v to 1.5v assuming the current consumption is very less would love to know if there is a better way than this.

instruction  
1. Print all the parts and prepare the caliper. There is a template that you can print to make 
   a hole for the threaded inserts.
2. place the threaded inserts make sure you don't go through all the way.
   you also have to make a small slot for the wires (refer to the image).
3. open the caliper and solder 2 wires to +ve and -Ve terminal, route the two wires out and 
   close the caliper.
4. Put the slider switch in and glue it if needed, then place the charging circuit in 
   connecting everything as per the circuit diagram.
5. place everything inside and use the M3 screw and screw it on.

Parts list 
1.1 tp4056 charging circuit (micro USB)
2.3.7v lipo battery (I'm using an 80mAh from an old headphone)
3. Slide Switch (SS-12D00G3) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32809225980.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.74173d7epGMXjs&algo_pvid=78d89314-c4ca-4edf-87b3-dc5243095f42&algo_exp_id=78d89314-c4ca-4edf-87b3-dc5243095f42-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2264518550910%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B10.75%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BINR%3Bsearch-mainSearch
4.1x1kohm resistor
5.1x680ohm resistor (2x330ohm will also work)
6.2x M3 6mm screw or M3 10mm
7.2x M3  3mm threaded inserts (make sure they are not taller than 3mm)

Tools 
1. soldering iron 
2. some wire 
3.3mm drill 
4. super glue optional 

If you like my work and it helps you in any way consider tipping
https://paypal.me/Jimit5
 
I also do freelance work email: jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com 



Digital caliper battery mod

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5326415.

Phone holder/ kickstand

A simple and highly customizable design

Instruction

Print all the parts bottom, center hinge, and top plate (there are multiple options for top plate check before printing)
Remove the supports and clean the parts you might need to drill the holes using a 2 mm drill
Use a marker and mark the poles on the magnets
Use super glue and stick the magnets to the printed parts make sure the poles on the bottom part are oriented in the same direction and the other two parts have the opposite of that so that they can stick
Assembled everything using the 2mm pins
If the pins are loose you can add a small drop of superglue at one end before pushing it in completely
Find a comfortable position and stick it to your phone using the VHB tape
(note: use a phone case if you are not sure about it)

Things you need
3d printed parts
2x 2mm dia 22mm long pins(i used a pin from a rivet)
2x 5mm dia 2.8mm long strong neodymium magnet
2x 5mm dia 0.8mm long strong neodymium magnet
20mm thick vhb tape
Superglue

Print settings
Layer height: 0.12mm
Sprint speed: 60mm/s (go slow for best result)
Supports enabled
Enable z-hop
Orientation: all parts are printed on either of the sides with the holes facing the bed this does increase the print time but provides the best finish and strength for the hinges

If you like my work and it helps you in any way consider tipping
https://paypal.me/Jimit5

I also do freelance work email: jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com

Phone holder or kickstand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322224.

There are many options here, choose as per your need 
only bottom cover 
only bottom cover with mounting holes 
complete case 
complete case with mounting holes  

note files named "with hinge" are the ones for full case 

Other than the printed parts you will also need 
2*M3 3mm threaded inserts 
2*M3 screw 
2mm dia 34mm long wire (only need if you are using the lid)
1* M3 10mm screw (only need if you are using the lid )

For the labels print the provided file on A4 label/sticker paper 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10qWuKUcEom8z28o4eFl6YYESnAFDRoeY/view?usp=sharing

You can also check out my Node MCU case here 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322212

If you like my work and it helps you in any way consider tipping
https://paypal.me/Jimit5

I also do freelance work email: jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com



Arduino Uno case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322212.

A simple 2 part case for the esp8266v3 (ch340g)
Only works with female header pins so get a nonsoldered node MCU or replace the male header pins with female header pins 
Other than the printed parts you will also need 
4xM1 4mm self-tapping screws.

For the labels print the provided file on A4 label/sticker paper 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10qWuKUcEom8z28o4eFl6YYESnAFDRoeY/view?usp=sharing

You can also check out my Arduino Uno case here 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322224

If you like my work and it helps you in any way consider tipping
https://paypal.me/Jimit5

I also do freelance work email: jimit.patel.jp@gmail.com


Node MCU case 

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