Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6133132.

A very simple long, lobed vessel.
Optimal to contain 3 small vases with small succulents.

Long, lobed vessel - vase mode

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6144438.

this is a very fast remix of the great Equatorial_mount_for_Dwarf_II_Telescope__D2__6130910 by VIctor Gabriel (kudos to him)

I modified it for my position (ROME, ITALY) that is about 42 degree and made some micro editing adding here and there and removing here and there to minimize printing area and Consequently reinforce here and there...

Still not printed nor tested... waiting for a new fast printer...very fast...very coloured...

About 7-10 hours print on my Ender 3 s1 pro+ klipper (estimated by cura 5.4)

Anyway it is a fast and brutal remix done in tinkercad, next step is to make it easily adaptable to any or most of the positions.

You NEED the complete package from the original file to build and test it.


Again...this is a great original work by VictorGabriel for the great Dwarf II telescope

Equatorial_mount for Dwarf II Telescope - 42° degree version remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5812719.

This is my 3rd attempt to design an upgraded fan duct for my Ender 3 S1 pro (with sonic pad), upgrading from the original to a 5015 blower fan 24v (you can use a 12v with a tension regulator)
I tested some fan ducts around, paid or free, and it was very stimulating to design and print a functional (and working) upgrade of the original Spriter fan duct.
After I switched to Klipper with the Sonic Pad (kudos to Creality), The cooling aspect of printing became really fundamental.
Printing at 100-150 mm/sec with PLA or silk PLA became a challenge, and a lot of effort needed to obtain perfect or almost perfect printed parts (in my case I print a lot of vase for ceramic molds or for the sake and joy of designing them).

Speed-Temp-Cooling-Dimensions, all togheter make a hard equation to solve.

I cannot say that this is the best or the ultimate Spriter extruder nozzle fan duct, but it is the apogee of my research (at the moment) and it is free to use...

The categories of air duct ca be summarized in few famillies:
from a single side (like the original one)
from two lateral side
circular

The firs one is useless at high speed.
The second one can work but cooling power is different between horizontal walls (X axis) and vertical walls (Y axis) because the two horns works quite well for the first but less fot the last. Printing a vase at high speed makes evident that the front side is not properly cooled, on the other side the back (where the air jet hit better the concave part, due to the path the nozzle is running on) is usually clean and well done.
The circular "all open" nozzle need an in depth study because it seems to me that it could be an all aroound gogod solution but the ratio between intake (in my case 5015 fan outtake) and the exit risks to e too similar and in this way the air cant be properly accelerated (pressure and velocity of the air in a pipe are tied to the pipe section. IF you reduce the section, the air gain speed).

Well I tried a compromise...a 3 jet of air at 120 degree, all around the nozzle, with a good speed, hitting the hot filament from all around with hi speed air.

You need a zero Y probe mount (you can find some of them here in thingiverse), 4 M3 screw (I use 3 6 mm and a 20 mm and a M3 nut for the duct and 2 screws 6/10 mm and 2 nuts for relocating the probe)

Disassemble the extruder- carriage link, dissasemble the probe, remove the plastic box of the heater block fan, substitute the carriage mount with the  zero Y offset mount.
remove the original fan and fan duct, assemble the new fan duct , mount the new 5015 fan in the duct (if it is hard to push in you can use a lighter to warm the petg ad make the perfect sit for the fan).
You will need a new micro connector (I can't remember the name) or you can be an alpha male and cut the wires like I did... 8-)

Print with PETG, 016-022 layer, 2/3 walls, a normal infill (20-25% will be ok), no support (the duct sit on the plate).


Zad Nozzle Fan Duct mk3 v1.0 for Ender 3 S1 Pro Spriter extruder and 5015 blower fan

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5702868.

An attempt to create a reusable mold for a concrete (or plaster o other) pot for succulent plants. Made in fusion, printed on a dreamer, sliced with flashprint 5 (a simple and effective chain of work).
Printed in PLA vase mode or plain, next will be in TPU to make the demolding process simpler.

print 2 "guscio" to make a full mold exterior...




Mold for a geometric pot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1214708.

I have changed my UO (2012) original 0.4 nozzle (the original female nozzle) with a new 0.6 E3D nozzle. this thing works very well but I had to unscrew the holow threaded tube, leave almost 1.5 cm of tube out and screw the new nozzle in the heatblock for 5mm.
So I have a new configuration, rather unusual and had to change my Z endstop.

Also the original pliable fanduct won0t work well with the new nozzle, now severl mm lower.

I designed a ugly but functional new fan duct, inspiread by some readings on the web about refreshing the PEEk with fan air.
So the fan Duct has a double air outtake.

well it is a work in progress and refreshing the peek and the exposed hollow tube doesn0t work for me. if the fan is on a severe underextrusion appear...

wel just closed the superior air outlet and so all the fresh air power is right on the hot plastic out of the nozzle. works like a charm, but I repeat, it is ugly...

ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL E3D Nozzle mod FAN DUCT (ugliest fan duct in thingiverse)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5812745.

A simple and fast support for my Ipad to be attached to my turner threadmill....
Just to navigate thingiverse during the daily running time...

Tablet support for a Turner threadmill - tapis roulant

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207113.

Just a very basic idler for the common T 2.5 belt (I guess it works also in GT2...) no teeth, nothing else than aidler used to add tension to a belt.
Of course a very basic one, non ball bearing, non bushings, just a hole and a 3mm bolt in it... but it works for me

T 2.5 idler pulley 3mm axis 24 mm height

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