Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4793826.

This is a reverse engineering of a product by www.pannierhooks.com, given I don't live in the USA this would have been quite costly to get it imported and an unpleasant experience overall,

I have used this with PLA+ and it has been very strong, a single hook could hold 15kg of weight easily, PETG is recommended as the Hook needs to be a bit more flexible to snap onto the pannier rail easily but it still can be done with a PLA printed one.

Since printing I have reversed the bolt and nut arrangement, this is so when the bolt sticks out from the nut, it doesn't mar your clothing.
Now I haven't printed the new version yet, as the original was good enough albeit its flaw.


you will need,
-part 1.stl x2 printed on its side - may require supports for the hex nut slot
-part 2.stl x2 printed on flattest side down
-M5x20 x 2 - I used a round head with a hex pattern
-M5 nut x 2

The design is for you to drill holes into your bag strap and sandwich them in-between part 1 and 2, so part 1 is on the outwards facing side and the slot for the pannier rail faces down

If you need more instructions please look at the website where this design comes from, support them if you like the product

Universal Pannier Bag Hook - turn any backpack into a pannier bag

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4585346.

I have designed a mount for an existing [Raspberry Pi case by ender1968] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3256773)

to mount the LCD mount I recommend you use superglue to glue the feet in and then use some thin double sided tape ( I used tesa brand) to mount onto the Pi case so you can access the Pi case for fan mounting etc.

You will need to print 4 feet for this.

In the pictures you will see my original prototype for the case, note I have adjusted all the parts since then for good fitment as the originally the LCD would hit the z endstop frame so I have shifted everything to the left more and also I have adjusted left rail that holds the screen more to the left as I mistakenly placed too far right, I had to use a hot knife to make it chooch

Ender 3 V2 Raspberry Pi Mount + Display Mount (left side)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4581142.

EDIT 27/6/2021

Okay, it is time to actually go ahead and finish this design, I looked around thingiverse for better design inspiration, I found a design but had to design it in CAD by myself,
3 pieces now, you will need:

-Super Glue
-M5 Nut
-M5x20 Bolt

The Ball will need adhesion support,
The side piece doesn't anything,
Arm only needs supports in the vertical part where the ball will sit, use a Cura plug in to disable supports for the M5 Bolt, or prepare to clean out with a drill.

Smooth your ball if you want to, I just ground it against the ball plates until it felt smooth, you will want to place four 4 dots of super glue in each corner of the arm's ball plate, insert the ball and squish with the other plate. add more superglue to any gaps.

I have deleted the old text, its completely redundant and frankly embarrassing 


Ruixin Pro III - Bearing guide arm V3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4920416.

*REMIX OF https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1060861*

The original design is good but I found that it had a few weakenesses, namely the microphone cable at 90 degree angle which would break without any strain relief.

My remix now requires you to loop the wire and use a zip tie to hold the wire onto the arm, a shoulder is added for the ziptie to sit against so it doesnt slide.

I have also changed the dimensions of the magnet used, it is now 7x2mm, I have added 0.25mm of tollerance in both the arm and the mount, on my test print it sat perfectly in place.

  

Headset boom mic

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613787.

Here is a replacement part for your Weinmann brakes, if you have the ones that have barrel adjusters then you can find those on thingiverse as well, these should just slot in as they are same dimensions as the originals, I think the curved part isn't exactly the same as the original but it will work just as the same

Weinmann Brake Line Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4794264.

If you are getting a lot of frame hits because you suck at tying bands to the forks like me, you would probably want a set of band clamps, you can buy some official ones from wasp slingshots but if you want to print some here it is, 

print both the washer and the clamp twice for each fork, if you shoot TTF just rotate the clamp, I suggest using some super glue to glue the M5 Nut onto the clamp piece, M5x20 bolts are used, don't over tighten too much as it will break your frame

Uniphoxx Slingshot band clamp

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5090328.

Same as the orignal design but now with two USB ports to hold some adapters or anything USB,

might be a bit tight/loose, if too loose then jam some paper into the sides of the usb hole to make it tighter.

Same printing instructions as original, but I did 0.2 @ 20%

MicroSD box + USB ports

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4835264.

Found a Dewalt toolbox from 2006 free to take at the side of the road, one of the latches were broken but apart from that it was in good condition for its age, I have made a quick replacement piece, I had to snip off the two "fingers" to install this, If you have the same design then you will understand.

DEWALT toolbox latch replacement

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800546.

I have extended the depth of the original piece by .70mm, bringing it to 2.20mm which is in good tolerance to fit a 2mm magnet in perfectly, I have used 7mm x 2mm n52 magnets and it works great, sure you could make the actual magnet cutout radius smaller but I have used it to have more area for some super glue to keep it all together, fitting a magnet in the original piece would make it stick out since it is 1.50mm deep, which causes the two pieces not to sit flush.

2mm magnet depth - Customizable Headset Microphone Boom - Mount

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