Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2760743.

This is a replacement part for a GT52 garage door opener.

I never got a chance to try this out as I ordered one online before I decided to make one and it arrived before I'd finished it.

But someone may find it useful.

I'm not guaranteeing this part will work.

Just a thought, the spring parts on the bottom make me think this part would be best printed horizontal with supports

Replacement Einhell GT52 sled/carriage

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse,
but now also here.
https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/575290

Included is a side mounted receiver for my sliding door bolt.
This should allow mounting of the receiver on a side wall, floor or ceiling, or where there would otherwise be insufficient space to mount the standard one.

Also included (21 March 2017)
Wider receiver to allow the bolt to slide in even if door is slightly misaligned due to warping etc. 

Updated 7 May 2017
I've added standoffs for the receiver and main bolt.
They are 5mm  thick, but you can scale these in the z axis to make them as thick as you need.

Updated 30 October 2017
Added slim receiver. for narrow gaps.
I may add more add-ons in the future depending on how this goes.

See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1596180 for main parts.


Sliding door bolt add-ons

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1816753.

This is my take on a concealed toilet seat fixing, made due to the original falling apart before it was properly fitted.

I hope others may find it useful.

The bolt is a 5mm and the nut size is 8mm across, it should be a easy press fit.

I recommend that the parts be printed in this orientation with 100% infill as very little cleanup is needed.

Toilet seat plug fixing 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715233.

This is replacement blade holder.

My original had cracked in several places and been glued, but was never quite right afterwards.

This model prints vertically, it needs support, but not much.

In Cura I had to use 85 degree overhang angle and increase support density to 30%.

I printed in PLA, with 3mm walls and 2mm top and bottom, this ensures that any infill is actually done at the speed of the internal walls, and also creates a nice solid part.

Tests show that my plane is now working as good as new, (it's actually about 40 years old)





David Plane blade holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598991.

This is a replacement leg for a toy robot my son was given as a present.

Unfortunately both of the legs were broken in the box when he opened it.

The original legs as I discovered were..... I'll be polite here, were let's just say they were a 
little delicate!

There was almost no difference between left and right legs, so print one or two, it fits both sides.
The leg is in two parts to make it easier to print, just superglue them together as in the picture.

I guess there is only a slim chance that anyone in the world will need this.

The casing of the robot can easily be split down the middle, just be careful, the plastic is  a little on the brittle side, the 3d printed leg is probably the toughest part.

0.8mm shell
0.1mm layer height
10% infill (it's hollow so probably not needed)

Personal Apprentice replacement legs

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2418999.

I've added three more variations, one slightly smaller, one with a curved bottom and one with a chamfered bottom (print the last two upside down)

A very quick and simple fix for damaged laptop screw inserts.
Sometimes when a laptop is dropped, the brass insert breaks out of the small plastic housings, 
making it impossible to screw the laptop case back together.

These have a 3.8mm internal hole.
Just squeeze the original brass part into the hole with a vice and glue in position in the laptop very carefully and accurately 

These are flat bottomed and may only fit in certain positions.
You need to remove the original damaged plastic to allow this part to fit on a flat surface.
If the part needs to be thicker than 2.8mm then just scale up in the z direction,
This was made to fit typical laptop brass inserts and may not fit all, but they only take a minute or so to print and you can scale up or down if needed.

0.2mm layer height 1.2mm walls 100% infill

Laptop screw insert repair (4 parts)

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1465644.

I'm currently trying out a Bowden extruder on my. Hictop aluminium and previously the hot end and fan cables were tied to the stepper motor cable and seemed pretty solid.

However since the stepper motor is no longer on the carriage, the cables seem to bend as the printer prints and I don't want to fatigue the connections.

So I have made a simple support  to keep them from flexing.

The support uses the top linear bearing screws and the cables should clip into the end (see pic). I have left a half slot at the back to allow a cable tie if needed, mine seems ok.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Mine looks slightly different, I radiused the rear corner afterwards.



Hictop carriage cable support

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3137133.

If you have some broken clips that secure your wooden dado to the wall but cannot find anywhere that sells them, then this might be what you're looking for.

they are a nice snug fit unlike the loose fit of the original part.

I believe dado was made by Richard Burbidge.

I printed with .8mm shell 100% infil .2mm layer height

Depending on your print bed a small brim may help it stick.

Replacement dado clip

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445031.

This is an io shield I made for a motherboard I bought without one.

It fitted my motherboard fine, and is held in place by the io frame in the PC case once mounted.

Printed from PLA 

choose whatever settings work for you.

Asus Z370-p IO shield

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2206010.

This is a simple replacement foot just glue in place.
It should fit all the way to the flat part as in the picture.

Sizzix Big Shot replacement foot

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445034.

This is a belt I made to repair my floppy drive.

It must be printed from flexible material like TPU, possibly others, but TPU worked for me.

It just takes a couple of minutes to print.

Atari STFM floppy drive belt

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796186.

Remixed from
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1222591

Get the other parts from there!!

Thanks for the great design!

I remixed this very useful design to fit my Power Craft dremel clone.
Unfortunately the original design doesn't fit as the threads were a little too coarse,
I have replaced the threads in my version using Tinkercad with an 18mm dia 1.5mm pitch thread that now fits mine and maybe some other Dremel clones.

If you're not sure it will fit, make a test piece. Either sink the print into the bed until only 5mm or so is actually visible in the print area and print that.Or flip the part upside down and cancel the print when you have 5mm, then test fit the piece. It will save you wasting filament.

Dremel router remixed hub with 18mm thread

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3195292.

Here is my quick remix  of this mount for Left hand side mounting.
Remixed from.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753176

 RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller - Snap Fit Mount. Left hand side version

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4798632.

I could not find any other adapters on Thingiverse that allowed the replacement of three C cell batteries with a single 18650, many of them replace the three C cells with two 18650 cells, I believe that this is most likely to damage an LED torch/flashlight...

This is simple battery adapter to allow three C cells to be replaced with a single 18650 lithium cell.

After printing, solder a small washer to a suitable piece of wire, then feed it through hole inside the adapter (the end where the 18650 fits), the wire should hold itself in place, but if not push an 18650 cell inside to hold it in position. 

Then simply cut the wire where it exits on the outside, leaving enough wire to solder on another washer to create the positive terminal.

Make sure the solder is relatively flat after soldering or adapter may not fit correctly.

Triple C Cell to 18650 battery adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921868.

Just a quick and simple mosfet mount, none of the ones I tried were the right size so here is mine.

25A Mosfet mount

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2243333.

Small key to reset Fire alarm or panic alarm etc, whatever uses FP2 key.
Just be aware key only needs to turn about 5 degrees or so until resistance is felt, don't try to turn fully as this is unnecessary and may snap the key.
Print as  supplied, use support (it wont take much and key prints in about 6 minutes)
Cura support angle 40 degrees gave good support and peeled of easily.

0.2mm layer height.
100% infill

Fire Alarm Reset FP2 Key

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1515955.

This is a simple mini bin/container 150mm wide 150mm high and 100 front to back at the top, tapering to 90mm at the bottom.

The walls are quite thin, 2mm, so bear this in mind if scaling down.

Flat back Mini Bin

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1920763.

This is a simple fix I made to repair the cracked lid of my laptop.
I simply superglued the pieces over the broken corner after gluing the cracks closed.
Closing then opening the lid slightly closed the gaps to keep everything tight,

If you do this be careful not to use too much glue, just a few small dots on the back of the part and position carefully, it probably wont slide or move once you position it, you have been warned!!

I printed mine in PLA, 0.2mm layer height and 100% infill.

My actual metal hinges were in good shape but the lid had cracked after a few years use.

This might work for you and might give me a few years more


My laptop is a Dell E5500 

Laptop lid corner repair

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783436.

This is a long bearing holder that can be mounted with four screws with standard spacing.
It can take two bearings but only needs one set of mounting holes.

This should also ensure that two bearing are perfectly aligned with each other.

A quick remix of my own holder.


Super long LM8UU linear bearing holder (90mm) 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921885.

This simply plugs in at the bottom of one of the wire parts to stop it accidentally disengaging and falling out.

Ikea Skadis wire lock

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1899286.

I made this keyboard leg to replace a broken one, and because the other legs on Thingiverse didn't seem to fit this keyboard.

I also made a longer one as the height adjustment on the standard one is a bit low for some users.....like me!

Hp Keyboard Leg. Model  697737

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2132715.

I've adjusted the text and cleared the calibration hole.

Nice case though, thanks!

DSO138 top remix

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