you can on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4745676/files

It should scale okay, but the magnet holes will, of course, have some extra space in them. A strong glue will keep them in place anyway. If you scale to the point where filament can no longer be a good hinge, substitute it with wire or 3D print an appropriately sized cylinder (lay the cylinder flat on the bed and sink it in slightly so it has plenty of surface contact). Good luck!

Glad you like it. Thanks!

That's a great use for it! Thanks for printing!

Depending on the filament, some of my prints were tighter than others. In all cases, I was able to work the lid back and forth to smooth out the threads until it could go far enough.

People have commented elsewhere that using hot water also helps with softening the threads until they gently move into place. I haven't had to try this myself, but this solution was successful for multiple people.

You also might be able to use a lubricant like silicone oil until the threads loosen up from use. I hope one of these options works for you!

Awesome thank you for the tips! ill give it a try and see if my print quality is better!

I'm glad you got it working!

There are a lot of factors that go into print quality, but before I dive too far into that I think it's fair to say that prints usually look better in photos and videos than they do in person - unless you're looking at extreme closeups.

I print with 0.2mm layer heights using a 0.4mm nozzle. I actually find that printing with smaller nozzles or thinner layer heights can look worse for some designs - what's really important for me is consistent and even extrusion. Layer lines only bother me when they're wobbly and inconsistent.

Here are some factors that work for me

• I print quite slow
• I use medium-to-high quality filament (I save cheaper stuff is for prototypes)
• I use up open rolls of filament as quickly as I can so they have zero chance to absorb moisture
• When trying out a new filament (even just a new color of a brand I already use) I pay close attention to nozzle temperature and adjust accordingly.
• Related to that, I print on the cooler end of the listed temperature range (but not so cool as to hurt layer adhesion or cause clogs)
• I obsess over first layers and will cancel a print if the first few layers don't look nearly perfect
• Unless printing PETG, I print closer to the bed than most people. You can get away with that easier if you have a textured PEI sheet
• I use a brim most of the time, even if it's not really necessary, just to make sure I don't get any curling

All of my printers (Sidewinder X1, Prusa, Daedalus) are direct drives, which helps with consistent extrusion, but that also means that you need to print slightly slower to avoid ringing. For me, this is worth the tradeoff and I'll often lower printing speeds just because I don't need a part right away.

I hope some of this helps!

got it working after a bit of sanding! But question, how do u get your prints to have such smooth and solid finishes? Im fairly new to 3D printing and own an Ender 3. Even when i up the quality of the print to 1mm, it comes out with a grain (like i can visibly see and feel the lines) Maybe a youtube video on the pre and post process that goes into making ur box?

I haven't tested this yet, but if you have a very strong ABS-like resin, it should work. Of course you'd still need filament, or something about the same size, for the hinges.

Glad you like it! Yes, it's a good option for finishing rolls and you end up with a cool end product that showcases lots of filament colors!