I edited the "stackable_cap_special_lid.stl" to remove the stacking cutout and made the hole on the inside bigger to reduce material used while printing - is there anywhere I can upload this as a remix for anyone that would like to use it?
Will this model easily scale? Or would there be some geometry i should be aware of?
Like, can i just fire up prusaslicer and kick everything up to 125% size?
i should clarrify my intentions... i was hoping to scale up the "small" variant so that the boxes could hold MTG decks, which are 100mm x 70mm and different depths based on game format... commander would be 100 cards so about 65mm, whereas standard formats would be 50mm.
Edit:
The scale i'd need to fit MTG decks is nearly 250% on the small. Any chance you plan to make another rolling storage box in the future? perhaps a short a stubby version with card deck sized containers? :-P
It should scale okay, but the magnet holes will, of course, have some extra space in them. A strong glue will keep them in place anyway. If you scale to the point where filament can no longer be a good hinge, substitute it with wire or 3D print an appropriately sized cylinder (lay the cylinder flat on the bed and sink it in slightly so it has plenty of surface contact). Good luck!
Hi I printed the medium core (stackable) and the cap(stackable) and even when i twist as tight as possible, the alignment between the top and bottom is off by about 1/8. (aka the slots for the end piece dont line up.) any solutions?
Depending on the filament, some of my prints were tighter than others. In all cases, I was able to work the lid back and forth to smooth out the threads until it could go far enough.
People have commented elsewhere that using hot water also helps with softening the threads until they gently move into place. I haven't had to try this myself, but this solution was successful for multiple people.
You also might be able to use a lubricant like silicone oil until the threads loosen up from use. I hope one of these options works for you!
There are a lot of factors that go into print quality, but before I dive too far into that I think it's fair to say that prints usually look better in photos and videos than they do in person - unless you're looking at extreme closeups.
I print with 0.2mm layer heights using a 0.4mm nozzle. I actually find that printing with smaller nozzles or thinner layer heights can look worse for some designs - what's really important for me is consistent and even extrusion. Layer lines only bother me when they're wobbly and inconsistent.
Here are some factors that work for me
I print quite slow
I use medium-to-high quality filament (I save cheaper stuff is for prototypes)
I use up open rolls of filament as quickly as I can so they have zero chance to absorb moisture
When trying out a new filament (even just a new color of a brand I already use) I pay close attention to nozzle temperature and adjust accordingly.
Related to that, I print on the cooler end of the listed temperature range (but not so cool as to hurt layer adhesion or cause clogs)
I obsess over first layers and will cancel a print if the first few layers don't look nearly perfect
Unless printing PETG, I print closer to the bed than most people. You can get away with that easier if you have a textured PEI sheet
I use a brim most of the time, even if it's not really necessary, just to make sure I don't get any curling
All of my printers (Sidewinder X1, Prusa, Daedalus) are direct drives, which helps with consistent extrusion, but that also means that you need to print slightly slower to avoid ringing. For me, this is worth the tradeoff and I'll often lower printing speeds just because I don't need a part right away.
got it working after a bit of sanding! But question, how do u get your prints to have such smooth and solid finishes? Im fairly new to 3D printing and own an Ender 3. Even when i up the quality of the print to 1mm, it comes out with a grain (like i can visibly see and feel the lines) Maybe a youtube video on the pre and post process that goes into making ur box?
I haven't tested this yet, but if you have a very strong ABS-like resin, it should work. Of course you'd still need filament, or something about the same size, for the hinges.
I love this print. Not going to lie, much like the person beneath me, I also didn't clock that one cap fits all for a little bit:) It's a really wonderful print, and the small sections are great for using up end of roll filament . thank you!
Hello. I would like to print the medium one, but I think miss the cap. There's only one cap, but I don't think it's universal for the small, medium, large and extra large.
Good news: all the caps (Cap.stl, Stackable_Cap.stl, and Stackable_Cap_Special.stl) work with any of the available cores! If the threads come out a little tight, you can probably work the lid back and forth a bit to smooth out any layer imperfections that are causing problems.
I've seen someone add actual metal hardware clips/latches on one of my other designs and it looked great! I see no reason they couldn't be used for this design.
If you're thinking about 3D printed clips, that's certainly possible. I think designing, printing, and testing a latching clip would be a little beyond what I have free time to do in the moment, but I often revisit old projects and improve them, so it could be something I may do in the future.
Discussions — Rolling Storage Box
is there a hero to modify this to fit in empty spools? would be the most premium empty spool reuse
I edited the "stackable_cap_special_lid.stl" to remove the stacking cutout and made the hole on the inside bigger to reduce material used while printing - is there anywhere I can upload this as a remix for anyone that would like to use it?
you can on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4745676/files
can someone list the parts needed for a small box?
Will this model easily scale? Or would there be some geometry i should be aware of? Like, can i just fire up prusaslicer and kick everything up to 125% size? i should clarrify my intentions... i was hoping to scale up the "small" variant so that the boxes could hold MTG decks, which are 100mm x 70mm and different depths based on game format... commander would be 100 cards so about 65mm, whereas standard formats would be 50mm.
Edit: The scale i'd need to fit MTG decks is nearly 250% on the small. Any chance you plan to make another rolling storage box in the future? perhaps a short a stubby version with card deck sized containers? :-P
It should scale okay, but the magnet holes will, of course, have some extra space in them. A strong glue will keep them in place anyway. If you scale to the point where filament can no longer be a good hinge, substitute it with wire or 3D print an appropriately sized cylinder (lay the cylinder flat on the bed and sink it in slightly so it has plenty of surface contact). Good luck!
I have printed a large and small version. very useful. great prints. Thanks for the designs!
Glad you like it. Thanks!
I'm using this as a dice container so I used the Medium Storage bin but I scaled it up to 150 percent and it works awesome.
That's a great use for it! Thanks for printing!
Hi I printed the medium core (stackable) and the cap(stackable) and even when i twist as tight as possible, the alignment between the top and bottom is off by about 1/8. (aka the slots for the end piece dont line up.) any solutions?
Depending on the filament, some of my prints were tighter than others. In all cases, I was able to work the lid back and forth to smooth out the threads until it could go far enough.
People have commented elsewhere that using hot water also helps with softening the threads until they gently move into place. I haven't had to try this myself, but this solution was successful for multiple people.
You also might be able to use a lubricant like silicone oil until the threads loosen up from use. I hope one of these options works for you!
Awesome thank you for the tips! ill give it a try and see if my print quality is better!
I'm glad you got it working!
There are a lot of factors that go into print quality, but before I dive too far into that I think it's fair to say that prints usually look better in photos and videos than they do in person - unless you're looking at extreme closeups.
I print with 0.2mm layer heights using a 0.4mm nozzle. I actually find that printing with smaller nozzles or thinner layer heights can look worse for some designs - what's really important for me is consistent and even extrusion. Layer lines only bother me when they're wobbly and inconsistent.
Here are some factors that work for me
All of my printers (Sidewinder X1, Prusa, Daedalus) are direct drives, which helps with consistent extrusion, but that also means that you need to print slightly slower to avoid ringing. For me, this is worth the tradeoff and I'll often lower printing speeds just because I don't need a part right away.
I hope some of this helps!
got it working after a bit of sanding! But question, how do u get your prints to have such smooth and solid finishes? Im fairly new to 3D printing and own an Ender 3. Even when i up the quality of the print to 1mm, it comes out with a grain (like i can visibly see and feel the lines) Maybe a youtube video on the pre and post process that goes into making ur box?
Can this be used in resin printer?
I haven't tested this yet, but if you have a very strong ABS-like resin, it should work. Of course you'd still need filament, or something about the same size, for the hinges.
I love this print. Not going to lie, much like the person beneath me, I also didn't clock that one cap fits all for a little bit:) It's a really wonderful print, and the small sections are great for using up end of roll filament . thank you!
Glad you like it! Yes, it's a good option for finishing rolls and you end up with a cool end product that showcases lots of filament colors!
Hello. I would like to print the medium one, but I think miss the cap. There's only one cap, but I don't think it's universal for the small, medium, large and extra large.
Good news: all the caps (Cap.stl, Stackable_Cap.stl, and Stackable_Cap_Special.stl) work with any of the available cores! If the threads come out a little tight, you can probably work the lid back and forth a bit to smooth out any layer imperfections that are causing problems.
Very nice. Just printed the small one. Went together quite well. Now I have to figure out what I want to put into it.
Awesome! Glad to hear the print worked well for you!
can you make a tpu strap file?
A simple strap (basically a long flat piece with holes and a hook) should be quick enough to model and print. I'll look into it!
can you use clips instead of the magnets?
I've seen someone add actual metal hardware clips/latches on one of my other designs and it looked great! I see no reason they couldn't be used for this design.
If you're thinking about 3D printed clips, that's certainly possible. I think designing, printing, and testing a latching clip would be a little beyond what I have free time to do in the moment, but I often revisit old projects and improve them, so it could be something I may do in the future.