Collapsing Scottish Claymore
William Wallace - Scottish Claymore Replaceable Blade Version
This is my take on a collapsing William Wallace’s Scottish Claymore. Not only is it ridiculously large but I also added another blade segment so it extends extra far. The tallest part is 300mm as printed but it extends to 1530mm lg!
This is the replaceable blade version, if you want a print-in-place version it can be found here.
Printing I have detailed instructions on how to print collapsing swords on my website.
Test Print The test print is a total of 24mm high so I change retraction settings every 8mm. Then I compare the changes until I achieve the best result. Each printer is going to be different but in my case I used a negative “extra restart” distance to reduce the size of the layer seam.
Printed on the Muldex rep-rap IDEX printer.
Other Collapsing Swords Master Sword Katana Jian Broad Sword Dagger
Note: Assembly model for reference only.
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Collapsing Scottish Claymore
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I'm having trouble with the the pommel cap not fully lining up when I screw it on any suggestions?
having this same issues but i see there is no reply
Too Tight? • Reprint the pommel with the cap just below the bed surface in your slicer to allow it to rotate more. • Reprint the pommel scaled up slightly. • Tighten the pommel really tight, wait a day to allow the plastic to creep and loosen. Tight it again and repeat until it lines up.
I guess 84% scale across the board would be okay? (270mm build height) (with vase mode blades). No wait... 90.71% without pommel cap. :) :)
Do I print blade 1 (the tip of the blade) in vase mode?
i would print all blades in vase mode. for blade one i would turn both layers on, and then for the rest turn bottom and top layers off. it creates a much stronger blade, with no z seam.
I completed the hilt, it’s in great condition. What about the blades, I print them in vase mode/individually correct?
Thank you
Any recommendation for infill etc…?
I completed the hilt, it’s in great condition. What about the blades, I print them in vase mode/individually correct?
The weakest link is normally the blade, 3 wall 15% should be plenty good enough for the hilt.
is there any way to get 3 wall blades for a lot more strength? i know the step downs would be bigger and the final blade would end up smaller. just curious
You could scale it up. Ha Ha
How do I fix the problem where the blades print fused together?
I agree with quilixxcze, or tune your layer seam using the test print.
Try to print it in "vase" mode. Every blade as standalone =)