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Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade

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sliverbaer
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Image 22 of 27
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Princess:
#Polymaker Silk Magenta
#AtomicFilament Translucent Aqua Gemstone

Classic:  
#ProtoPasta @joeltelling High Five Blue
#Sliceworx Silk Silver

Gloom:
#FlashForge Burnt Titanium
#COEX Translucent Blood Red - 3d model
sliverbaer
sliverbaer
|
|
Image 22 of 27
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Princess:
#Polymaker Silk Magenta
#AtomicFilament Translucent Aqua Gemstone

Classic:  
#ProtoPasta @joeltelling High Five Blue
#Sliceworx Silk Silver

Gloom:
#FlashForge Burnt Titanium
#COEX Translucent Blood Red - 3d model
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Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Nephew asked me to print one for him so i obliged, great model and easy to print - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Very cool! I forgot to turn on "vase mode" or "Spiralize Outer Contour" on Cura and now its no longer retractable but after some sanding it fits snug. Lol. - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Great Design!
I will add this to my page for #Filament February
www.instagram.com/3delusions/ - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Great Design!
I will add this to my page for #Filament February
www.instagram.com/3delusions/ - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Amazing model! Really happy with how the print turned out, using silk blue and silk silver PLA. Had the same issue with the pommel not lining up completely when fully tight, so used a sanding block to carefully sand back the surface until it lined up perfectly. Thanks for your work on this! - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - As soon as I finished assembling the sword, I just knew the perfect way to display it! Hopped on Tinkercad and knocked up a BOTW-inspired pedestal from a few other files. - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Painted with bambu studio and printed on p1p with ams.   - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Princess:
#Polymaker Silk Magenta
#AtomicFilament Translucent Aqua Gemstone

Classic:  
#ProtoPasta @joeltelling High Five Blue
#Sliceworx Silk Silver

Gloom:
#FlashForge Burnt Titanium
#COEX Translucent Blood Red - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - Collapsing Master Sword printed in pieces.  - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade - My son absolutely loves it, great model! - 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model
Collapsing Master Sword with Replaceable Blade 3d model

Collapsing Master Sword with Removable Blade

Unlike the Print-N-Place version, the pommel on the hilt of this Master Sword is threaded which allows the blade to be printed separately and inserted. The assembled hilt is 250mm long but the blade extends to a length of 870mm long in total!

Printing The hilt and pommel do not require supports. The blades can be printed concentrically as an assembly or individually in vase mode. If you plan to print concentrically, a single stl contains all the blades. If printing in vase mode, there is a stl for each blade. Note the vase mode stl’s are supposed to be solid so the slicer knows not to make an internal perimeter.

Vase Mode I prefer printing the blades in vase mode as the result is a much cleaner and easier print that can easily be scaled. If you print sequentially, it’s faster too. If printing at 100% scale, set the line width to .85mm. If you plan to print it smaller, scale the line width down by the same about. If printing in vase mode you can scale down to a minimum of 55% with a .4mm nozzle. For vase mode turn top and bottom layers on for the first blade, but turn it off for segments 2-5. You will notice that the vase mode files are solid, this is so your slicer knows not to try to build a inner perimeter.

Concentric When printing the blades concentrically use a .4mm nozzle and set the line width to .42 so the blades are two shell thick. If you would like to scale it down try printing the vase mode version instead. Before printing the blade assembly make sure perform the test print found here This print is sensitive on the layer seam and might need to be tuned so the blades don’t fuse.

Test Print The test print is a total of 24mm high so I change retraction settings every 8mm. Then I compare the changes until I achieve the best result. Each printer is going to be different but in my case I used a negative “extra restart” distance to reduce the size of the layer seam.

Detailed printing instructions can be found on my website

Note: Assembled 3mf file for reference only

Printed with 3D Fuel Cobalt Blue and Silver Pro PLA

Printed on the Muldex rep-rap IDEX printer.

Master Sword Versions Print-N-Place Dual Extrusion Three Color

Note: Assembly model for reference only.


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1.7K Likes6.2K DownloadsNovember 11, 2021


1.7K Likes6.2K DownloadsNovember 11, 2021