Tried so many attempts at this using my k1 but i just cant physically get the fit toght enough that it actually works it just keeps liskng shape every spin... what am i doing wrong....
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural
Thanks. I'm loving trying these out with some really cool filament colours. I've been giving them out to students as a reward for good science work and they love them 🥰
Very nice model.
I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning.
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG).
Upgrades to printer
-Brass Z axis coupler
-BTT SKR mini E3 control board
I'm fairly new and have limited troubleshooting experience so i'm looking for help to diagnose why this failure occurred. Using ERYONE Silk PLA and their recommend temps. TIA
Followed YouTube video which was very helpful but would definitely recommend using petg for the connectors. The original connectors was too lose for the ball but the strong connectors from the file where better and a nice fit and easy to play with despite changing connectors for stronger ones. Overall a good make.
I had the same problem with the standard connectors- gears kept popping out. I made the "strong connectors" out of petg and these seem to hold it together a bit better.
Printed the Gearball 2.0 with Luminous Melody (Glow in the Dark) PLA and it came out perfectly, no need to print any adjustments. the other 3 i had printed for my niece and nephews needed some adjustments with the clip/connectors and they work wonderfully as well! Thanks for the great creation.
None of the connectors labelled "thinner", "stronger", or "longer" actually work. They all result in an improper, too-loose fit between the pieces. Test them, you'll see. Additionally, it is far more confusing to label the pieces 1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4. Why not simply number them 1-8? This way no one is confused about the order to place the pieces on the core. I really like this model and I'm glad I purchased it but I would really appreciate you fixing these things.
There are only 4 models. I coudl imagine doubling the amount of models to change the numbers might make the build seem more intimidating for some people
To get really firm connections, I printed the "Strong" connectors and increased X and Z to 105% and Y to 102%. Really tight fitting parts now. Not as smooth as the OG gear ball, but maybe I just need a lil lube. Printed with matte Polyterra PLA on Ender 5 Pro.
Amei essa versão 2.0, porém, fica muito solto e a forma se perde de forma rápida, me parece que o projeto precisa de um heart, mais apertado. Assim como na primeira versão. Poderia ajudar?
I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart ho
I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart.
https://than.gs/m/1090047?image=2040654
I printed the ball in silk filament and the clips in PTEG on a Bambu x1c. The clips were the tiniest bit loose, so if I print again I may try scaling them up a teeny bit. It still works well and I am happy to have a smaller gear ball to fidget with, as the first one was a bit too large for my hands. Next up is the cube!
print the pins with PC and never have an issue. Ive printed many gear balls and square gear form 50% size to 150% size and PLA pins break all the time. Since ive used PC filament its been perfect each time and less slop giving better tolerances
I found the numbers didn't match up so used my common sense and matched the teeth up. It fits together easily with silk PLA+ but regular silk PLA is being a little more difficult and the cogs keep popping out so I'm going to lengthen the connectors a little.
Ok, so this was me being dumb. The large gears are sequenced 1-2-1-2 and the small gears are 3-4-3-4. I can't believe how fast this is to put together compared to v1. Excellent job :)
Discussions — Gear Ball 2.0
Tried so many attempts at this using my k1 but i just cant physically get the fit toght enough that it actually works it just keeps liskng shape every spin... what am i doing wrong....
comigo também! Me parece que precisa ter o arquivo "heart" modificado, assim como nos outros projetos dele onde ele fez variações do heart.
I've been printing the connectors in PET-G Seems to have the best success
Great looking filament!
xD so fast
Oh my what filament did you use for this?
I think it was Sunlu matte rainbow
Wow this is incredible
Thanks. I'm loving trying these out with some really cool filament colours. I've been giving them out to students as a reward for good science work and they love them 🥰
Followed YouTube video which was very helpful but would definitely recommend using petg for the connectors. The original connectors was too lose for the ball but the strong connectors from the file where better and a nice fit and easy to play with despite changing connectors for stronger ones. Overall a good make.
pins are to lose tryed all of them now made was 8 and infill 100% still lose??
What do you mean with loose?
you can push them in with your fingers really easy and they just pop out
I had the same problem with the standard connectors- gears kept popping out. I made the "strong connectors" out of petg and these seem to hold it together a bit better.
None of the connectors labelled "thinner", "stronger", or "longer" actually work. They all result in an improper, too-loose fit between the pieces. Test them, you'll see. Additionally, it is far more confusing to label the pieces 1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4. Why not simply number them 1-8? This way no one is confused about the order to place the pieces on the core. I really like this model and I'm glad I purchased it but I would really appreciate you fixing these things.
There are only 4 models. I coudl imagine doubling the amount of models to change the numbers might make the build seem more intimidating for some people
To get really firm connections, I printed the "Strong" connectors and increased X and Z to 105% and Y to 102%. Really tight fitting parts now. Not as smooth as the OG gear ball, but maybe I just need a lil lube. Printed with matte Polyterra PLA on Ender 5 Pro.
This worked perfectly! Thanks for the tip
The Original Gear ball works much better when the clips are printed with PETG.
Thats what I did.
This new design is amazing! Easy to put together! The cube and this are my favorites. Can't wait to see what you do next.
hi mate what size did you use for the pins
I printed the all file. Didn't change anything with the pins.
o meu continua perdendo a forma conforme vai girando, não tem um arquivo com corações menores para teste? Assim como na primeira versão.
Amei essa versão 2.0, porém, fica muito solto e a forma se perde de forma rápida, me parece que o projeto precisa de um heart, mais apertado. Assim como na primeira versão. Poderia ajudar?
Very nice model.
I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA. Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart ho
Very nice model.
I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA. Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart. https://than.gs/m/1090047?image=2040654
I printed the ball in silk filament and the clips in PTEG on a Bambu x1c. The clips were the tiniest bit loose, so if I print again I may try scaling them up a teeny bit. It still works well and I am happy to have a smaller gear ball to fidget with, as the first one was a bit too large for my hands. Next up is the cube!
Hey guys can someone help me with what slicing parameters have you used?
Any advice for the best settings in Cura ?
print the pins with PC and never have an issue. Ive printed many gear balls and square gear form 50% size to 150% size and PLA pins break all the time. Since ive used PC filament its been perfect each time and less slop giving better tolerances
i assembled the ball and it is very loose,is there a different print for the pins?
Hi Ruven,
Do you have other file formats likes IGES or STEP?
Connector design not as good on this one. I think too short and too flimsy, easy to pop out.
I found the numbers didn't match up so used my common sense and matched the teeth up. It fits together easily with silk PLA+ but regular silk PLA is being a little more difficult and the cogs keep popping out so I'm going to lengthen the connectors a little.
Ok, so this was me being dumb. The large gears are sequenced 1-2-1-2 and the small gears are 3-4-3-4. I can't believe how fast this is to put together compared to v1. Excellent job :)