The tolerances are extemely tight. Even printing on settings that produce a super clean benchy (0.15mm layers, 80% speed) results in non-functional mechanisms. I would highly appreciate variant (tight, average, loose) tolerances to allow them to be printed on more printers / settings, even if it introduces a bit more slop in the mechanisms.
Same. You'd better have a Bamboo printer to print these, otherwise, everything prints as one piece practically. I can't set compensation tweaks large enough to make room for the parts to move and function as intended.
I've also had trouble with tolerances. The end stops are completely non-functional, even after enough force to break the entire module, and the rails make it extremely hard to move the boxes.
had the same issue with the rails-- though I've had some success with repeated use-- it seems eventually they sort of "wear down" and then modules can move smoothly across them, but I came to this comment session looking for a solution to rigid mechanisms as well
Hey, for mechanisms that seem to be a bit too tight (which can be various factors, including printer, filament type and warping), as long as they're moving (even if a bit stiff), you can then try adding a bit of silicon grease - it's extremely effective for smoothing out mechanisms. If you add it to the Rails, the Cases and Tiles should glide a lot smoother.
I guess i found solution.
When you print it and fint out that part that should work as hinges is melted together just adjust stopper Y size to 98% or 97% (to make gap there bigger) then you just hepl it to move first time with screwdriver and it worked like magic for me! Printed on full speed with Anycubic Kobra S1.
i printed this today and thought the lock was "glued" But i just pressed on the backside until i heard a crack, then turned it around and rocked it back and forth with the help of a plier and it works just fine.
Hey, this is most likely a printer, filament type or warping issue. The stoppers are tightly toleranced to stop them flapping around when you're using them so can't be too loose unfortunately - try printing at 50% speed to see if that helps
Hey, yes the designs generally require high quality printers because of the mechanisms and connections, unfortunately by changing the tolerances for each design it would have a knock-on effect, affecting the function of both features in that part and other designs. We design and test on Bambu P1S, A1 and Prusa Core One printers atm.
3x3 Cargo Connects (9 panel equivalent).
Prints in under 4:30 hrs (vs. 6:48 hrs seperately) and saves over 20% in filament. Retains the working vertical rails on the back. Also made a 4x4 version for the H2D.
Oh I need this. I am planning to do a wall that would hold potentially 70-100 containers, and being able to print a 3x3 piece rather than 9 individual would be great!
Hey mate. Could share or send me a copy of this STL file please?? Here's my email spike331@hotmail.com if u could send it as an attachment that would be most appreciated.
Hey, the stoppers are tightly toleranced to stop them flapping around when you're using them so can't be too loose unfortunately - try printing at 50% speed to see if that helps. Also, we test at 0.2mm so try that layer height (it should also print quicker)
I made an ikea skadis hook prototype that connects directly to the rails without using any screws. Unfortunately it is not possible to make the model compatible with skadis since the holes do not match if not every 53cm. 12 different adapters should be developed for each position. The only solution would be to scale all projects by 123% to obtain a correspondence with the holes of the skadis and use just this hook.
If anyone needs the files for the T Clip System I am happy to share them. As to not undermine Play Conveyor as it would give away the original model I will just need to see some sort of proof that you have paid for the files from Play Conveyor already. Feel free to send me email at benamellott@gmail.com.
I printed this on just my crappy little printer and just the worst settings and even I was able to put a few of them together. This is really special. I think I will be upgrading thanks to you.
The mechanisms worked perfectly but the the top surfaces are very rough (mainly near the corners) and the containers do not slide well, even with oil. Do you have any ideas of what I can change to try and fix this?
These print perfectly on a Bambu printer. THANKS!
I made some dividers to be able to utilize the bigger boxs and divide it for smaller screws, nuts etc.
No problem printing this on my cute lil Tina2 aside from some stringing on the underside(lower print rate printer, alas) *notably moderately modded beyond what it deserves
That said... Why not do the connectors in the pattern shown in my ugly paint splice. Then the vertical and horizontal would be the same, interchangeable piece. Some... Adapters with current system might need to also exist but...
Feel free to make use of said ;P Alas the modeling software I'm used to doesn't edit STLs well...
Okay, having played with settings a lot. Your endstops are insanely settings sentive... I get they rely on tight tolerances? But that could definately be redesigned to be a little less finnicky. I've both gotten them to print fine on 0.2mm layers, and had issues with them at 0.1mm. And when I fixed some elephants foot issues... They got worse? somehow? Wild.
I'm using this for my basement and garage organization. Really really love the design and modularity of this whole system! I found a solution for those using pegboard (masonite or other) to help mount the frames: pegboard fastener. Is there an alternate module to the Gripper for screw drivers ?
Is there a design for an end piece? Like a slim one that would fit on the end of the rail to complete the rows and tie into each other for stability. Could even design a corner piece to tie it all in together.
I signed up just for this design. I have printed each component in ABS and had absolutely no dramas at all with tolerances or any of the print-in-place parts like the rail stopper.
I do think that this backing board needs some boarders to snap in place and make the final product look tidy, rather than an incomplete project.
Kinda new to 3d printing and you caught me on TikTok.
I have a FlashForge 5m adventurer.
Downloading was super easy. I extract from zip and dropped it in orca. Was trying to only print the horizontal first. Adjusted the print to the correct filament, nozzle, and temperature for my printer, but have struck out twice with printing.
Hey, we use Bambu and Prusa printers as they have high quality tolerances and accuracy, unfortunately we don't have a Flashforge so can't help with that printer. It usually comes down to printer accuracy, filament type and avoiding warping, especially for the first layer.
La partie arrière du container 1x1, au niveau de l'ondulation, casse. De ce fait, lors du basculement de de dernier, il ne peut rester en place et tombe.
Par contre sur le container 2x1 et 3x1, je ne rencontre pas de problème sur ce point.
Sinon, aucun souci pour les rails, hooks et le reste des éléments des cargo (label et modular)
J'utilise une K2 plus, nozzle 0.4, Sunlu PLA2+ en 0.20 standard d'impression
Via creality print :
Passez la "largeur de ligne" a 0.50 voir 0.52 au lieux de 0.42
Passez comme cité le "générateur de paroi " sur Classique au lieu de Arachné.
Sorry to hear that, we currently use Bambu and Prusa printers for our designing and testing. The Bambu A1 is pretty good value and holds great tolerances (and has the same print bed size as the more expensive Bambu's).
Hello, i just wanted to confirm some things prior to printing to get the best outcome. ive read through the setup document and appreciate it comes with specifics for the bamboo printer, but i dont have one of those. could you share some of the settings for things like, Wall thickness, top/bottom thickness? thanks
Hey, the stopper for the Rail needs an initial strong push - once it's released, further use should loosen it up. The close tolerances are to help it function properly.
A high quality printer (Bambu or Prusa), filament and bed adhesion is also very helpful with tolerances too. Trying printing slower, that can also make a difference - hope that helps
Thank you so much!! I take it back it was a printer issue, I fixed it and now the print is flawless and the stopper works seamlessly. Amazing Design...really inspiring.
Hey, inside the main Zip folder for each model there are the individual STL files, for example the Cargo Containers has ‘Container’ and ‘Modular Case’ STLs.
hey i have just bought and downloaded ur cargo containers and the rails but i don't know which layer height you print at? if you could let me know that would be good
Hey, this release is supplied as 3MF files instead of individual STLs.
We’ve tested the Ready to Print 3MF in the current version of Cura and the models import correctly. Cura won’t pull through the print settings or layout from the original project, so you’ll need to set your own settings, but you should still be able to move and slice the rails as normal.
If you still need the individual STL files, you can export each model as an STL from Cura.
For those who struggle with the tight clearance, set the Horizontal Expansion setting of your slicer to some meaningful negative value. I had this problem, but setting it to 0.15 for initial layer and to 0.1 for the rest helped. All works perfectly.
Ive printed the horizontal rails following the recommended settings in the zip file using DEEPLEE black PLA+. I did use a raft instead of a brim but that's just fir my preference (i have my rafts dialed in better than my brims) and they came out great, they clip together easily and the stoppers more nicely after being worked free a little bit.
I'm printing my first cargo containers now also following the settings recommended in the zip folder so I'll find out how well they fit together soon.
Is there a way to have the rails be printed more reliably?
I start for 6 or 9 of them, and more often than not one of the 2 halves of the first few layers sticks to to nozzle and gets pulled accross the board (ruining the others as well).
My idea was to print the rails in the night, so they are ready when I wake up... but at lease for the first 10 layers I have to permanently look at the printer (P2S w Bamboo PLA)
Are there plans to make merged plate models? I.e. a 3x3 or 3x1? I don't see much usage for a single 1x1 by itself. I get that they are destined to be modular but seeing that there are container options or various sizes, being able to do the same with the tracks would be awesome.
We use Bambu Lab and Prusa printers when printing the models, so don't have any direct experience with the AnyCubic S1, however other printers should be able to accurately print the parts.
I see people complain about the tolerance .
I printed rails on Bambuu A1 using "Ready To Print.3mf" they work great. Yes they start very tight but after a wiggle or two the tabs and rails work fine .
Just tuned in a Sovol SV06 ACE.. printing bridge tolerance test.. Since this is sort of close to a Bambu, wnder if it will print correctly. Gonna slice it up and try tomorrow.
Hey, could you let us know if you are getting an error message, or what happens when you try to download? The design has been downloaded multiple times over the last few days, so there is no issue we are aware of.
I have a glass divider between my desk and others at work. It would be nice if there was a piece or adapter that goes over the top of my glass divider to hang the rails since I cannot screw it to the glass.
how is everyone getting their pieces so clean and flawless looking i used the same settings on the flash forge 5m pro as they do on the bambo and mine come out looking crappy
Next can you make these able to fit on Ikea Skadis board? Or make them for Command strips so no need to screw them to the wall? I am in the middle of building a hobby shed and either of those would be a massive help.
so i love this and was wondering if u u could design some rails to go in a circular motion or like a rail that can rotate to alow for rail changes on direction
would be nice i you could adjust the print in place stoppers to be little shorter. If a rail is completely full with container you can't enable both blockers on both end of the rails. It is roughly a millimeter to long...
Great design with a few flaws. First let me say I really like the rails and containers. I have several issues though. Can't really do a large 12x12 as must slot all the containers on to rails in one go. Can't flick push notches with containers over them so we have to have wider rails than containers (could do with option for end clips) + ....
Hey, thanks, you could try putting the Cargo Containers onto one or two Vertical rails sliding along the Horizontal rails, that can allow quicker/easier removal (maybe connecting them with Spacers in-between)
Discussions — Rails 1x1 - Cargo Connect
The tolerances are extemely tight. Even printing on settings that produce a super clean benchy (0.15mm layers, 80% speed) results in non-functional mechanisms. I would highly appreciate variant (tight, average, loose) tolerances to allow them to be printed on more printers / settings, even if it introduces a bit more slop in the mechanisms.
Hi, i have the same problem. The end tabs are stuck. It looks like it's printed shut. How do we fix this?
Same. You'd better have a Bamboo printer to print these, otherwise, everything prints as one piece practically. I can't set compensation tweaks large enough to make room for the parts to move and function as intended.
I printed on the Bambu p1s , same issue
I've also had trouble with tolerances. The end stops are completely non-functional, even after enough force to break the entire module, and the rails make it extremely hard to move the boxes.
had the same issue with the rails-- though I've had some success with repeated use-- it seems eventually they sort of "wear down" and then modules can move smoothly across them, but I came to this comment session looking for a solution to rigid mechanisms as well
Hey, for mechanisms that seem to be a bit too tight (which can be various factors, including printer, filament type and warping), as long as they're moving (even if a bit stiff), you can then try adding a bit of silicon grease - it's extremely effective for smoothing out mechanisms. If you add it to the Rails, the Cases and Tiles should glide a lot smoother.
I guess i found solution. When you print it and fint out that part that should work as hinges is melted together just adjust stopper Y size to 98% or 97% (to make gap there bigger) then you just hepl it to move first time with screwdriver and it worked like magic for me! Printed on full speed with Anycubic Kobra S1.
i printed this today and thought the lock was "glued" But i just pressed on the backside until i heard a crack, then turned it around and rocked it back and forth with the help of a plier and it works just fine.
Hey, this is most likely a printer, filament type or warping issue. The stoppers are tightly toleranced to stop them flapping around when you're using them so can't be too loose unfortunately - try printing at 50% speed to see if that helps
Please create a version from the rails and the bins witch have at least 0.2 tolerance! We are paying for this!!!
Hey, yes the designs generally require high quality printers because of the mechanisms and connections, unfortunately by changing the tolerances for each design it would have a knock-on effect, affecting the function of both features in that part and other designs. We design and test on Bambu P1S, A1 and Prusa Core One printers atm.
Oh I need this. I am planning to do a wall that would hold potentially 70-100 containers, and being able to print a 3x3 piece rather than 9 individual would be great!
Hey mate. Could share or send me a copy of this STL file please?? Here's my email spike331@hotmail.com if u could send it as an attachment that would be most appreciated.
Hi, have you had any luck? Did you get in contact with tonysr? :)
Tell us more. :)
do you have a file?
Hey, the stoppers are tightly toleranced to stop them flapping around when you're using them so can't be too loose unfortunately - try printing at 50% speed to see if that helps. Also, we test at 0.2mm so try that layer height (it should also print quicker)
Thanks for 123% Scaling. I edited mine and added holes compatible with the Skadis T Clip System designed by Samulski https://makerworld.com/en/models/859600-twist-clip-for-skadis-t-clip-system?from=search#profileId-809544
If anyone needs the files for the T Clip System I am happy to share them. As to not undermine Play Conveyor as it would give away the original model I will just need to see some sort of proof that you have paid for the files from Play Conveyor already. Feel free to send me email at benamellott@gmail.com.
Hello, where can I find the adapter for skadis? I mean the green one you created.
Great, glad to hear it!
Do the mechanisms work?
Fonctionne tres bien sur creality k2 plus en standard 0.20, nozzle 0.4 et 15% de remplissage avec pla + sunlu
!! amazing, did you upload a remix somewhere? Would love that
Any Chance this can be modified to connect to Multiboard directly?
This really needs Ikea Skadis compatible hooks.
Thank you for the great design! Only thing i struggle with is the tollerance on the push notches, its so tight i could not move the notches.
Hey, the stopper for the Rail needs an initial strong push and further use should loosen it more.
A high quality printer (e.g. Bambu or Prusa), matching filament and great bed adhesion is also very helpful with tolerances as well
I printed on a P1S, same issue
Hey, we use 0.2mm layer height, Bambu filament, Textured PEI plate and aim for around a 20-26 degree celsius print environment.
Also try printing slower, 50% speed can help if you're having trouble (although we test with 0.2mm standard speed, 2 walls and 15% infill)
For a compatibility plate, have one with all 8 connector points being indents, and a small piece that clicks into a pair. ;P
Okay, having played with settings a lot. Your endstops are insanely settings sentive... I get they rely on tight tolerances? But that could definately be redesigned to be a little less finnicky. I've both gotten them to print fine on 0.2mm layers, and had issues with them at 0.1mm. And when I fixed some elephants foot issues... They got worse? somehow? Wild.
printed good, only problem i had was that i had to use pliers to force the stoppers out, with a little bit of play after they worked fine
I'm using this for my basement and garage organization. Really really love the design and modularity of this whole system! I found a solution for those using pegboard (masonite or other) to help mount the frames: pegboard fastener. Is there an alternate module to the Gripper for screw drivers ?
I was able to get everything working nicely with the following settings on a Creality K2 Plus:
Thanks for the info!
Is there a design for an end piece? Like a slim one that would fit on the end of the rail to complete the rows and tie into each other for stability. Could even design a corner piece to tie it all in together.
I signed up just for this design. I have printed each component in ABS and had absolutely no dramas at all with tolerances or any of the print-in-place parts like the rail stopper. I do think that this backing board needs some boarders to snap in place and make the final product look tidy, rather than an incomplete project.
Great to hear it printed well for you in ABS! We've added the 'Frames' to neaten the edges if that's what you were looking for
I dig this! Printed great. The moving parts were stiff at first, but they loosened up quickly.
Great, thanks!
Kinda new to 3d printing and you caught me on TikTok.
I have a FlashForge 5m adventurer.
Downloading was super easy. I extract from zip and dropped it in orca. Was trying to only print the horizontal first. Adjusted the print to the correct filament, nozzle, and temperature for my printer, but have struck out twice with printing.
Any guidance?
Hey, we use Bambu and Prusa printers as they have high quality tolerances and accuracy, unfortunately we don't have a Flashforge so can't help with that printer. It usually comes down to printer accuracy, filament type and avoiding warping, especially for the first layer.
Have we any ideas how to mount this to a multiboard?
Is there any work being done for boarders and or edging in the future?
Hey, yes we created the 'Frames' design to neaten the edges up
Bon trouvé une solution qui marche :
Via creality print : Passez la "largeur de ligne" a 0.50 voir 0.52 au lieux de 0.42 Passez comme cité le "générateur de paroi " sur Classique au lieu de Arachné.
Hey, we've updated the 1x1 Container now, the back spring should be stronger now (also try 'Classic' wall generator vs 'Arachne')
I have this same problem with every print. Does anyone have a solution?
Hey, we've updated the 1x1 Container now, the back spring should be stronger now (also try 'Classic' wall generator vs 'Arachne')
I REALLY, REALLY, REALLY wanted to use this system, but the tolerances are simply too tight for my printer.
Sorry to hear that, we currently use Bambu and Prusa printers for our designing and testing. The Bambu A1 is pretty good value and holds great tolerances (and has the same print bed size as the more expensive Bambu's).
Hello, i just wanted to confirm some things prior to printing to get the best outcome. ive read through the setup document and appreciate it comes with specifics for the bamboo printer, but i dont have one of those. could you share some of the settings for things like, Wall thickness, top/bottom thickness? thanks
Hey, generally we use the Bambu 0.2mm Standard settings - 15% infill, 2 walls, 5 top shell layers, 3 bottom shell layers
Any chance you could send me this custom block? This is exactly what I need
This is fantastic! I would love a scaled up version 200% would be awesome! Great work can't wait to see what other things you make for this. :D
you can scale it up in a slicer program just need to make sure everything is scaled to the same %
I just printed a Rail, came out pretty well except the stopper seems to be stuck in place. Any solutions?
Hey, the stopper for the Rail needs an initial strong push - once it's released, further use should loosen it up. The close tolerances are to help it function properly.
A high quality printer (Bambu or Prusa), filament and bed adhesion is also very helpful with tolerances too. Trying printing slower, that can also make a difference - hope that helps
Thank you so much!! I take it back it was a printer issue, I fixed it and now the print is flawless and the stopper works seamlessly. Amazing Design...really inspiring.
im having similar issues and im currently running calibrations. how did you fix it?
Thanks, glad to hear you got it working!
Is there an option to mount to the underside of a cabinet?
Hey, we have created the Under Desk Adapter now
hey i have just bought and downloaded ur cargo containers and the rails but i didn`t find the individual parts files, where i can find them?
Hey, inside the main Zip folder for each model there are the individual STL files, for example the Cargo Containers has ‘Container’ and ‘Modular Case’ STLs.
hey i have just bought and downloaded ur cargo containers and the rails but i don't know which layer height you print at? if you could let me know that would be good
Hey! We did all our printing and testing at 0.2mm layer height
Loving the system. Are there any plans to make larger containers?
Hey, we currently have 1x1, 2x1 and 3x1 Containers
A slightly taller version that does not require the containers to be connected at the top, but still be able to slide, would be awesome
The files contained inside the downloaded ZIP folder do not include the STL files, only the 3MF files. Cura is unable to open these files.
Could you please provide the STL files for the rails?
Tks
Hey, this release is supplied as 3MF files instead of individual STLs.
We’ve tested the Ready to Print 3MF in the current version of Cura and the models import correctly. Cura won’t pull through the print settings or layout from the original project, so you’ll need to set your own settings, but you should still be able to move and slice the rails as normal.
If you still need the individual STL files, you can export each model as an STL from Cura.
For those who struggle with the tight clearance, set the Horizontal Expansion setting of your slicer to some meaningful negative value. I had this problem, but setting it to 0.15 for initial layer and to 0.1 for the rest helped. All works perfectly.
Ive printed the horizontal rails following the recommended settings in the zip file using DEEPLEE black PLA+. I did use a raft instead of a brim but that's just fir my preference (i have my rafts dialed in better than my brims) and they came out great, they clip together easily and the stoppers more nicely after being worked free a little bit.
I'm printing my first cargo containers now also following the settings recommended in the zip folder so I'll find out how well they fit together soon.
Is there a way to have the rails be printed more reliably? I start for 6 or 9 of them, and more often than not one of the 2 halves of the first few layers sticks to to nozzle and gets pulled accross the board (ruining the others as well). My idea was to print the rails in the night, so they are ready when I wake up... but at lease for the first 10 layers I have to permanently look at the printer (P2S w Bamboo PLA)
Are there plans to make merged plate models? I.e. a 3x3 or 3x1? I don't see much usage for a single 1x1 by itself. I get that they are destined to be modular but seeing that there are container options or various sizes, being able to do the same with the tracks would be awesome.
@Play Conveyor. Any chance you adopt the design by Tonysr? That would be great!
Can items be printed on the Anycubic Kobra S1
We use Bambu Lab and Prusa printers when printing the models, so don't have any direct experience with the AnyCubic S1, however other printers should be able to accurately print the parts.
These are great!!!!
I see people complain about the tolerance . I printed rails on Bambuu A1 using "Ready To Print.3mf" they work great. Yes they start very tight but after a wiggle or two the tabs and rails work fine .
Thanks for great design.
Just tuned in a Sovol SV06 ACE.. printing bridge tolerance test.. Since this is sort of close to a Bambu, wnder if it will print correctly. Gonna slice it up and try tomorrow.
Hi. Trying to download but it doesn't work. Any sugestions ?
Hey, could you let us know if you are getting an error message, or what happens when you try to download? The design has been downloaded multiple times over the last few days, so there is no issue we are aware of.
DO NOT BUY THIS SHIT! THE TOLERANCES ARE SO TIGHT YOU ONLY WILL SUFFER AND GIVE UP. GENERAL PRINTERS CANNOT REACH THE 0.1MM TOLERANCE!
could you design something so the rails could be a stand alone, like legs instead of screwing to the wall
you should make a power tool battery mount for it
I have a glass divider between my desk and others at work. It would be nice if there was a piece or adapter that goes over the top of my glass divider to hang the rails since I cannot screw it to the glass.
how is everyone getting their pieces so clean and flawless looking i used the same settings on the flash forge 5m pro as they do on the bambo and mine come out looking crappy
잘만드셨네요... 작은 희망을 가지고 올려놓으신 모델을 출력해서 판매가 가능할지 검토해보았는데... 이건 답이 나오질 않아서... 너무 잘만들어서 판매하기가 어려운 제품이네요...
What size screws do you use to hold the Cargo Connect to the wall?
Next can you make these able to fit on Ikea Skadis board? Or make them for Command strips so no need to screw them to the wall? I am in the middle of building a hobby shed and either of those would be a massive help.
so i love this and was wondering if u u could design some rails to go in a circular motion or like a rail that can rotate to alow for rail changes on direction
would be nice i you could adjust the print in place stoppers to be little shorter. If a rail is completely full with container you can't enable both blockers on both end of the rails. It is roughly a millimeter to long...
How much filament do you use for 9 It says 200 grams for me. Is that right?
I love the system however filament usage seems high for a 1x1 cube that I am printing. Not sure if I can justify expanding to a massive rack.
Not sure if there is much difference between this and multiboard tubs?
Great design with a few flaws. First let me say I really like the rails and containers. I have several issues though. Can't really do a large 12x12 as must slot all the containers on to rails in one go. Can't flick push notches with containers over them so we have to have wider rails than containers (could do with option for end clips) + ....
Hey, thanks, you could try putting the Cargo Containers onto one or two Vertical rails sliding along the Horizontal rails, that can allow quicker/easier removal (maybe connecting them with Spacers in-between)
if you make any modifications in the future for the rails would you be able to make a mod for magnets on the backside.
Super nice but not compatible with the older rails not gonna print every backplate i printed again
Thanks, we had to change the original Rails to accomodate the new features but we haven't changed the design since
What screws do you recommend for fixing the Cargo Connect: Rails to the wall?
I would do a wall anchor and maybe a washer also on the plastic side.
Is it possible to share the files as a .stp? A wider version of these bins would be perfect, but I cannot edit the .STL files on my Solidworks.
I have downloaded this and it is not working I have unzipped the files and still will not open in Cura, is there a step i am missing?
Hey, for Cura it might be best to drag and drop the .STL files.
We provide .3mf files too but they are created (and open with the settings we used) with Bambu Studio.
If the 'Ready to Print' .3mf won't open in Cura then dragging and dropping the .STL files into Cura should work (in theory).