If this works i´m sure as hell gonna support him, this is the thinking and kind of enterpreneur i want to support, not some big corporation producing dirty in china and greenwashing at home.
I figured this out on the Qidi Plus 4. Enable supports, but change it to "manual" and just don't add anything to the model. Qidi Slicer is happy because you enabled support, but none are actually printed. Works like a dream. Came out perfectly for me, using Creality Hyper ABS.
Forgot to mention the actual issue:
First “layer/item” prints well
The second one becomes spaghetti as it doesn’t stick on the first one, as if the gap is too big
Use an outer brim in your settings. It will help keep the part from moving around. I am finding I have to do that on my Bambu X1C on anything small otherwise it gets yeeted off the plate.
Thank you for refraining from calling this system Open Source. Open Source licensed products don't restrict commercial use. If you want to use a generic name, call it "Source Available".
@russnelson He still have to make a living somehow, for all I know he's taking all the risks involved right now because this whole project can end up beeing a total flop and you can see clear as day it's his idea to create and kickstart such a community long term. And he did not even called it Open Source AFAIK, strong copyleft advocates are so absurd these days :(
Just printed using Sunlu basic white PLA on an AnyCubic Kobra S1 with ACE:
3 wall loops
0.2 mm layer height
15% infill
No supports
Ironing all top surfaces (need to enable advanced toggle in AnyCubic Slicer Next)
Random seam position
The rings were difficult to pull apart and I had to do a little cutting with an X-acto to get them started. Might try again, as I'm not confident enough in my settings to do a full stack
I ran the test print “977033”
• Printer - Flashforge Adventurer 5M 0.4 Nozzle
• Bed type - Smooth High Temp Plate
• Filament - GEEETECH PLA & SUNLU Elite PETG
Set the profiles the same:
• Filament Profile – Flashforge PLA Basic & Flashforge PETG Basic
• Layer height - 0.2mm
• First layer height - 0.2mm
• Seem - Random
• Wall loops – 3
• Infill – 15%
• Ironing type - All top surfaces
• Default everything else
If your profiles are dialed in well, this works pretty nice. But there is a catch. Both part models are identical, but printed parts aren't. Because that 0.2 mm gap is filled with the layer of the upper part. So in the end the upper part is 0.2 mm thicker than lower part, which will be visible in the corners where different height tiles are connected. If you are making your own stacks you might want to cut the bottom 0.2mm of every part that's not touching the bed.
Update. Shaving off bottom 0.2 mm off a top part makes the contact area larger significantly enough, so the top part fuses stronger to the bottom part. Will try to speed up the 1st layer of the top part and report the result.
Update2. Here are best parameters i found so far for ironing stacks.
Shave off 0.2 mm from the bottom of every board except the very first one.
0.25 mm gap between boards.
Disable thick external bridges, and set bridge density to 90%.
Infill/wall overlap 30%.
Arachne wall generator, 3 walls, 4 shells layers at the top and bottom.
The rest of the relevant process settings are pretty much default. I use Orca slicer, print on A1 mini with Bambu PLA matte and my filament is fully calibrated, so there is that as well. I can share my full calibration data for it, if anyone wants it.
Any idea why this doesn't work with a .6 nozzle? Has worked fine with .4 nozzle and all settings as indicated in the instructions.
Is there something I should change in the settings using a .6?
REALLY new at this 3D printing stuff, so be kind!!
Thanks
Part 2
Both printed great. The PLA had a little stringing, but not bad. I just cut them off.
The inside of the prints where they are stacked over all is really good.
The PETG is better than the PLA (well duh)
When I squeeze them the PETG is stronger, and I think it would be a better choice (my opinion)
I am very impressed with the quality that went into engineering and design.
5 stars to you and the team
Works well for me on both Bambulab X1C and Qidi X Plus 4. The following is my personal experience and yours might differ: I also had some success printing with 0.6 nozzle and layer height of 0.3. I had to manually adjust the distance between the tiles to be 0.3 instead of 0.2 for it to work.
How did you get this to work on the Qidi Plus 4? I'm getting the error that there are gaps between the two layers of the model and it won't allow me to send it to the printer. What's the trick?
I don't understand a things, seems that the test print object dimensions does not match the standard grid one, is it intended ? I see about 1mm difference compare to the reference grid and the octogon side length are not equal 26/25.5
This is a genius method. Hilariously enough he mentions in the FAQ on his site to use Matte PLA as it is stronger, which I just got a roll of Overture Matte gifted to me after I bought a printer and was waiting on my rolls to ship. It is BY FAR their weakest filament, only matched by "Eco PLA". So that blanket statement about Matte PLA being stronger fails. Regardless, if this is going to be holding weight you better be printing in something more dimensionally stable than PLA, like PETG or PCTG.
Exact same thing as the other users, part not working, I was about to buy the subscription, but on a Prusa mk4 worth over 1000 euros, the two pieces cannot be separated, help or another solution THANKS
Discussions — Ironing Stack - Test Print - Key Chain
If this works i´m sure as hell gonna support him, this is the thinking and kind of enterpreneur i want to support, not some big corporation producing dirty in china and greenwashing at home.
I figured this out on the Qidi Plus 4. Enable supports, but change it to "manual" and just don't add anything to the model. Qidi Slicer is happy because you enabled support, but none are actually printed. Works like a dream. Came out perfectly for me, using Creality Hyper ABS.
Can't seem to make this one work, 1st time trying to print a stack, if anyone can help it'd be appreciated!
Tried using Generic PLA and eSun PLA+ profiles with same results, with both Standard 0.2mm profile and Strength 0.2mm profile
In both cases I made sure that I had:
Default everything else Thanks
Forgot to mention the actual issue: First “layer/item” prints well The second one becomes spaghetti as it doesn’t stick on the first one, as if the gap is too big
Use an outer brim in your settings. It will help keep the part from moving around. I am finding I have to do that on my Bambu X1C on anything small otherwise it gets yeeted off the plate.
"yeeted". LOVE that word!
Thank you for refraining from calling this system Open Source. Open Source licensed products don't restrict commercial use. If you want to use a generic name, call it "Source Available".
@russnelson He still have to make a living somehow, for all I know he's taking all the risks involved right now because this whole project can end up beeing a total flop and you can see clear as day it's his idea to create and kickstart such a community long term. And he did not even called it Open Source AFAIK, strong copyleft advocates are so absurd these days :(
what? you completely misunderstood the statement you replied on.
Just printed using Sunlu basic white PLA on an AnyCubic Kobra S1 with ACE:
3 wall loops 0.2 mm layer height 15% infill No supports Ironing all top surfaces (need to enable advanced toggle in AnyCubic Slicer Next) Random seam position
The rings were difficult to pull apart and I had to do a little cutting with an X-acto to get them started. Might try again, as I'm not confident enough in my settings to do a full stack
I ran the test print “977033” • Printer - Flashforge Adventurer 5M 0.4 Nozzle • Bed type - Smooth High Temp Plate • Filament - GEEETECH PLA & SUNLU Elite PETG
Set the profiles the same: • Filament Profile – Flashforge PLA Basic & Flashforge PETG Basic • Layer height - 0.2mm • First layer height - 0.2mm • Seem - Random • Wall loops – 3 • Infill – 15% • Ironing type - All top surfaces • Default everything else
Part 1
Assuming when it says 3 for perimeter wall thickness on bambu lab that would be 3 in the wall loops? new to this lol
Yup, wall loops, wall thickness is the number of walls
Works for me perfectly, printed with the A1 with a little help of a small screwdriver the parts cracked apart 👍🏼
No matter what I do these stick together too good. Any ideas?
For me I took 2 pliers and ever so gently pulled them apart, they snapped off quite easily and did not damage the prints
The multi material printing link on this page is broken. :)
If your profiles are dialed in well, this works pretty nice. But there is a catch. Both part models are identical, but printed parts aren't. Because that 0.2 mm gap is filled with the layer of the upper part. So in the end the upper part is 0.2 mm thicker than lower part, which will be visible in the corners where different height tiles are connected. If you are making your own stacks you might want to cut the bottom 0.2mm of every part that's not touching the bed.
Update. Shaving off bottom 0.2 mm off a top part makes the contact area larger significantly enough, so the top part fuses stronger to the bottom part. Will try to speed up the 1st layer of the top part and report the result.
Update2. Here are best parameters i found so far for ironing stacks.
The rest of the relevant process settings are pretty much default. I use Orca slicer, print on A1 mini with Bambu PLA matte and my filament is fully calibrated, so there is that as well. I can share my full calibration data for it, if anyone wants it.
Interesting. I am testing this and found that it didn't work when sliced with PrusaSlicer but I did the same with the SuperSlicer and it works.
I need to find a good slicer because SuperSlicer is not maintained any more.
Any idea why this doesn't work with a .6 nozzle? Has worked fine with .4 nozzle and all settings as indicated in the instructions. Is there something I should change in the settings using a .6? REALLY new at this 3D printing stuff, so be kind!! Thanks
Part 2 Both printed great. The PLA had a little stringing, but not bad. I just cut them off. The inside of the prints where they are stacked over all is really good. The PETG is better than the PLA (well duh) When I squeeze them the PETG is stronger, and I think it would be a better choice (my opinion)
I am very impressed with the quality that went into engineering and design. 5 stars to you and the team
Works well for me on both Bambulab X1C and Qidi X Plus 4. The following is my personal experience and yours might differ: I also had some success printing with 0.6 nozzle and layer height of 0.3. I had to manually adjust the distance between the tiles to be 0.3 instead of 0.2 for it to work.
How did you get this to work on the Qidi Plus 4? I'm getting the error that there are gaps between the two layers of the model and it won't allow me to send it to the printer. What's the trick?
I don't understand a things, seems that the test print object dimensions does not match the standard grid one, is it intended ? I see about 1mm difference compare to the reference grid and the octogon side length are not equal 26/25.5
is there a 1x1 that's not stacked? Fusion made a mess of the mesh after I deleted the stacked 1x1 and turned it into a solid.
Finally got it unstacked and stl exported
This is a genius method. Hilariously enough he mentions in the FAQ on his site to use Matte PLA as it is stronger, which I just got a roll of Overture Matte gifted to me after I bought a printer and was waiting on my rolls to ship. It is BY FAR their weakest filament, only matched by "Eco PLA". So that blanket statement about Matte PLA being stronger fails. Regardless, if this is going to be holding weight you better be printing in something more dimensionally stable than PLA, like PETG or PCTG.
Exact same thing as the other users, part not working, I was about to buy the subscription, but on a Prusa mk4 worth over 1000 euros, the two pieces cannot be separated, help or another solution THANKS
i need those feets for my multiboard oO cant find it Oo anyone got a link?
Anyone knock it out, on a stock Prusa Mk3s?
i printed this and it was too big plesse help