Thanks Forgecore for the beautiful design, all my coworkers were mesmerised! It was a bit tough to print and had a lot of waste but it is gorgeous. I even made my own 'sushi chess' Japanese lettering to go on the top of the box!
(I was going to make the box black but I ran out of filament haha)
This print put me through the ringer. First, it was the spectacular failure of the kings and queens, followed by what I can only describe as a lesson in patience and perseverance. The board refused to go past layer two without blobing up the entire week, and finally, after running the dehumidifier, it worked, after three more attempts and magigoo. Other than that, I am pleased with the results overall and look forward to more prints from ForgeCore.
This is amazing. Just printed 6 of them for Christmas presents with no issues at all and they came out fantastic. Any chance of getting a sushi checkers set like this in the future or other themed checkers sets? XD More people I know play checkers, haha.
Ah - I added a ton of text in a comment and then used upload a make to attach the image, but that is clearly not how it works. Anyway, I downloaded this file before buying the PS2 - I am quite excited to print it. I interpreted the Easy Make 3MF file to mean all settings would be included, but maybe that would be too easy. Any tips on what to do about the warnings?
Hi That warning can be ignored for those pieces Bambu Studio just likes to add it but they should print just fine from the Easy print 3mf as long as your build plate is clean
Hi, That is definitely tricky as those are my normal fixes for this issue. My next suggestion would be to re-wash the build plate again (be sure not to touch the surface after so that oils do not transfer from your hands), re-apply the glue stick (i use this or similar) and make sure to get all of the edges/ trouble spots that are pealing up and slow your initial layer speeds to around 20mm/s and initial infill to around 50mm/s. That _should _help
Hi, It looks like your prime tower is laid into the board. You will have to move it to clear that message. Sometimes when you switch your printer in the slicer things shift, so you just want to adjust it to the far side so it doesnt touch your board.
I want to do the mat at .12mm layer height. Has anyone tried this as opposed to the standard layer height of .20mm? just don't
want to waste the time and filament for the joints to not move or something
We have not tested it with anything other than our recommended settings in the 3mf but it is possible that someone else has, hopefully they comment if they have done so!
Ive tried to add a flush object to the primary piece tray but the file won't allow me to. can ou help me? As much as I adore your files, being able to offset some of the flush waste (even a little
) would be a huge plus.
Hi, to add flush objects you would need to turn off the adaptive layer height; as Bambu requires every object on the plate to have the same layer height for the prime tower
On files without rounded tops, would turning off the adaptive layer heights have any notable impact? I typically use
ALH where step off is very noticeable, but I doesn’t seem like that would be the case on the plate with the primary rook-king pieces
You may see more layer lines by tuning off ALH on those pieces but it isn't too noticeable Imo since the painting helps distract from it but they are going to be noticeable if people know what they're looking at.
Hi, I really love the sushi chess, and apart from the chessboard, the print turned out great. But every time I try to make the chessboard movable like a sushi mat, the white connecting pieces break. Does anyone have any tips on how I can improve this? I printed the white connecting pieces with PLA+.
Hi, That's definitely frustrating but I'd love to help you solve that issue! If the white parts are breaking it's likely that they are either fusing to the rest of the print or the filament could need to be dried making it too brittle. I would suggest drying your filament an checking your nozzle for any wear that could cause over extrusion.
Looking forward to printing this --- your other files have all turned out spectacularly. I was just confused by the soy sauce bottles. They just look like empty transparent bottles on the 3mf file, but in your picture they have brown inside... did you actually put soy sauce in them?! 🤔
I am new to printing and this does look a bit ambitious so I may download some simpler ones to start, but was wondering what the transparant PLA is used for.
I don’t recommend scaling this model, as doing so may affect the tolerances and fine details built into the design. If you choose to scale it anyway, please note that it may not roll up properly, and I can’t guarantee the outcome of the print.
So this and the cactus chess are likely too big for my printer? Why would you not include sizing in the details so people know before wasting their downloads? First the controller mount missing a super crucial piece and now models that are too large for a LOT of printers with no option to scale down. This sucks and I genuinely feel like I wasted my money on all of this.
Do you have any split roll-up mats, or mats that are printed folded on top of each other?. My printer doesn't have the space to print the full mat in multi-color
I do not, but you can manually do a color swap for the board pieces since it is just one layer/color swap. And hand paint the white pieces or leave the all the same main color.
Good morning! I have finally completed everything except plate 5 (sushi pieces) in the 3mf file. The problem that I am struggling with is that I only have one AMS with 4 bays and the 4 colors used for this plate are spread across bays 2, 3, 6, and 8. For all the other plates, I was able to rearrange and change colors since the pieces are single colors, but for this one, I can't seem to find a reasonable method for reordering the colors or adjusting the color mapping.
Could you possibly set it up so the 4 colors needed on plate 5 are spread across the first 4 bays or provide suggestions of how to adjust the colors myself?
Another thing I did while printing is that if I no longer needed a color, I would remove it from the list of colors to use so my brain wouldn't get confused. If you're using Bambu, a screen appears immediately before you commit to the print, displaying your colors and their associated slots, regardless of the order in the list of potential colors.
I was wondering the same thing, but when I printed, I found that the "bay" it shows on your slicer doesn't matter as long as it's in the AMS. If you're using Bambu it will automatically select those colors.
Okay, so are you using the bambu labs filaments that auto detect? I guess I don't understand how exactly that works. I manually export the .gcode files and load them on the sd card and print that way, so I'm not sure how to specify the AMS colors.
You don't need the bambu filament that auto detects. you can use any filament, you just have to manually tell the printer what color and material is loaded into each slot of the AMS. That can be done on the Bambu Handy App, Bambus studio, or printer screen (I don't think the P1 series has the screen capabilities so you would need the app for that printer).
Ah, my apologies. I should have started with that. Which printer are you using? If it's something that requires a manual SD card, then I can only speculate that removing the unnecessary colors from your potential color list should automatically use the correct colors.
Apparently, P1S printers have a hate for these files. First, the hand rolls refuse to print; then the board does not lay down its first layer properly. I've opened the door for the first layer, increased the bed temp to 65 °C, and ensured the plate was clean. (standard gold textured plate that comes with Bambu printers) It had nearly completed the first layer, but for some reason, when it switched to the matte PLA (Bambu Matte White), the little bits came away with the nozzle moving. Any ideas?
I used glue for the third time and slowed down the initial layer little parts kept popping off and then the nozzle snagged on one of the longer bars ;_; im going to go back to try to print the kings again before I try the board again with glue, initial layer slowed, bed temp 65c, and the print head fan going full til for the first layer. I WILL CONQUER THIS CHALLENGE!
More insulting is when I get through the first layer completely, and the nozzle drags one of the little white pieces with it. And the ovv has no issues past a little stringing, it's when I get to the bambu filaments that issues come up.
I did everything 6 times today alone for the board. I've never had issues like this on other prints. I adjusted the hot bed to 65 °C. Changed the Z hop to 0.8, slowed it down on the initial layer, and made it print the Bambu PLA white matte first. I checked that the nozzle was clean, cleaned the print bed multiple times, and used a glue stick. Every dang time, either a part sticks with the nozzle, blobs, or, in one instance, doesn't print. I even went back to base settings for the last try.
Have you dried out all of the filament before printing? It may have too much moisture in it. It really does sounds like you're doing a lot to get this to work so I'm sorry it's giving you so many issues. Another thing you could do is up your retraction speed under filament ->edit -> settings override. you could take it up to 40mm/s - 60mm/s.
Okay, I'll give that a try tomorrow after my husband has finished some prints he's been wanting to do. I'll also try the retraction speed adjustment after I run the AMS Pro's two dry functions. At least the Z hop adjustment allowed me to print off the kings with no issues.
And we are to the last 40 or so minutes. I had two false starts yesterday afternoon, and that was with using Magigoo. However, once I figured out the best application pattern, it stuck without any issues. I'll post again with the failure photos and the overall success once it's done.
So my husband brought up a good point after my printer had another coniption dealing with the hand roll files. How would we queen a pawn? Possible solutions include a small hand roll cone, just the nori/soy paper sized to fit over the lucky pawn? Small enough to store tucked into the throne spot, but just big enough to cap the pawn? Just some ideas.
I have a P1s and am currently printing the lid for the box, and I must question the logic of printing the lid with the lip down. There's so much support printing; I don't know if I'll be able to clear it out, or was this a mistake on my part not to flip it? Or did I miss something in the instructions? It also seems that what should be a maybe 2-hour print is nearly 5 hours. There has to be an error on my part lol
Hi, The Box, Lid, box insert, and mat should all print without supports. For the lid you want to print it with the flat side down. It will be rotated correctly by default right when you open the files!
Hello! I am excited to print this but I keep having issues with printing the board. I keep trying to print from the 3mf on my P1S using Elegoo Brown (https://a.co/d/bxXawNj) and Matte Beige (https://a.co/d/bTgNniy), and Bambu Labs Ivory White (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte?id=40489681780872). I have adjusted temperatures, but I keep having issues with the base layer, particularly brown but all somewhat, stringing and/or not sticking. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi timothy, what build plate are you using? That could be playing a factor in why the print won't stick. I would recomend a pei build plate (textured or smooth should be fine), if you aren't already using one. Make sure it is cleaned with dish soap and warm water. Be sure not to touch the surface after you wash it, so you don't transfer any oils over from your hands, and raise the plate tempeture to 65°. It also helps to vent the top of your P1S or to print with the door open.
I ended up having a piece pop off part way through the first attempt, so I washed again and it worked perfectly. Thank you so much. I was getting really frustrated.
Hi, you can print it single color, but you would have to hand-paint each piece or do manual color changes. (The manual color changes would likely take a very long time)
If you make multiple at a time, it gets much more cost effective to produce more! Since color switches only happen once even if you're printing a ton of something, you use almost no extra material.
oh 100%. That's what I do with everything I print if possible. But it's not the sushi rolls that are the most filament intensive part. It's the things I can only fit one of on a plate lol. I did wind up printing one for myself and hand painting just to see the time and cost difference. It might be the price calculator I use, but even printing at 90%, it says I'd have to charge like $75 for it in full color using AMS. Curious if others use a different calculator model?
Regardless, absolutely beautiful print! We have a sushi shop next door to the shop we sell from so I'm thinking about making one for them for customers to play with!
I love the idea but not sure if its me or not but i downloaded the file and have opened the easy print file and seem to have some problems it has thing in groups but only one build plate, the colors are not showing up and are just showing what ever i last used on a print. Also i have a x1c is any scaling needed? the board takes the whole plate and prime tower is in the meddle of it. Not sure what i did to break it.
You will want to make sure your slicer is updated, close the app fully and reopen to try again. If its not up to date it will open just like you're saying.
The print does not need to be scaled; it will fit on the X1C!
The prime tower settings will be saved correctly when you open the 3mf. The Helpful Instructions PDF has the prime tower settings if you want to see those settings specifically thought
Hi, for the wood filament, did you use a 4 or 6mm nozzle, I've used OVV3d wood before and usually have issues using my 4mm nozzle with my A1. Works great with 6mm. So I was wondering what you used? Thank you
Hi, I used a .4mm nozzle for the whole print. The OVV3D wood filament was only used on the first layer for the darker squares so it caused me no issues.
There are no magnets required for this print. If you have an AMS and print in full color it will be around 1085g total for all components. That can change based on your flushing volumes and printer as well.
Hi; the Queen Sesame Seed _A stl has some wonky painting; it's impossible to paint the sesame seeds without painting the entire cone; otherwise a great print; can we get an updated queen? :)
Hi, You may need to adjust your smart fill angle (or equivalent) in your slicer, to get them to paint it properly. You could also save yourself time and download Bambu Studio to use my 3mf file! I already pre-painted everything for you! (Fyi Bambu Slicer supports more than just bambu printers)
Any chance a second version will release with alternate kings and queens? Maybe soy sauce, sake, or nori and Wasabi plants? A roll of nori? anything really that makes them stand out more.
Those are all good suggestions! to be honest, i wasnt planning on making different versions of this, but since there's some interest I'll see what I can do.
Sake has traditional containers that might be very nice and painted differently. The soy sauce could be low sodium and not low sodium.
I'd love to see what you cook up!
It looks amazing! I have a A1 mini, maybe I'll try to scale it down, but can You add bed dimensions requirements in the description? I love your prints but I don't want to waste the download limit for models, that are too big for my printer.
I've scaled it down to 70% and it fit, but the issue im facing is the hinges on the board will not be able to rotate (hence not make the board flexible) so I might need to slice it in half and use small 3x1 magnets to make them attach.
Discussions — Sushi Chess - The Sushi Themed Chess Set
I'm happy I could help! Thank you so much for sharing! It looks great!
I am so glad you got it finished, even after all the trouble it seemed to give you. Thank you for posting the updates and final results!
Hi it looks like it is not on your build plate fully and that it may need to be looked at closer in the slicer befor re-printing
I absolutely LOVE this chess set! If I were to print it again, there are 2 things I would do differently:
I'm glad you like it! Thanks for the feedback!
This is amazing. Just printed 6 of them for Christmas presents with no issues at all and they came out fantastic. Any chance of getting a sushi checkers set like this in the future or other themed checkers sets? XD More people I know play checkers, haha.
Thank you! I am so glad you are loving the chess set! Checkers are always a possibility in the future. We will add it to the list!
Ah - I added a ton of text in a comment and then used upload a make to attach the image, but that is clearly not how it works. Anyway, I downloaded this file before buying the PS2 - I am quite excited to print it. I interpreted the Easy Make 3MF file to mean all settings would be included, but maybe that would be too easy. Any tips on what to do about the warnings?
Hi That warning can be ignored for those pieces Bambu Studio just likes to add it but they should print just fine from the Easy print 3mf as long as your build plate is clean
Hi, That is definitely tricky as those are my normal fixes for this issue. My next suggestion would be to re-wash the build plate again (be sure not to touch the surface after so that oils do not transfer from your hands), re-apply the glue stick (i use this or similar) and make sure to get all of the edges/ trouble spots that are pealing up and slow your initial layer speeds to around 20mm/s and initial infill to around 50mm/s. That _should _help
Slowing the initial speeds did the trick! It turned out great. Thanks for your help. Love your designs.
I'm happy I could help! Happy printing!
Hi, You can print the box and lid seperately. They aren't connected so they dont have to be printed on the same plate.
it is, just print each of those pieces on a separate plate. worked find for me.
Hi, It looks like your prime tower is laid into the board. You will have to move it to clear that message. Sometimes when you switch your printer in the slicer things shift, so you just want to adjust it to the far side so it doesnt touch your board.
turn off the prime tower if you have one, i did that and the error went away.
Love it, very attractive print. Eye catching and a good seller.
Thank you for the feedback! I'm happy you like it.
wauw amazing! i was already looking for more sushi’s for the pill boxes sushi design. so I am very happy with this
I'm Glad to hear you like it! I hope to see your make, when you get around to printing it!
Please make also checkers version.🙏🙏❤️
I want to do the mat at .12mm layer height. Has anyone tried this as opposed to the standard layer height of .20mm? just don't want to waste the time and filament for the joints to not move or something
We have not tested it with anything other than our recommended settings in the 3mf but it is possible that someone else has, hopefully they comment if they have done so!
Do you have a legend to identify what the pieces are?
The Bento box has the symbols for each one and I have them in the description as well!
Ive tried to add a flush object to the primary piece tray but the file won't allow me to. can ou help me? As much as I adore your files, being able to offset some of the flush waste (even a little ) would be a huge plus.
Hi, to add flush objects you would need to turn off the adaptive layer height; as Bambu requires every object on the plate to have the same layer height for the prime tower
On files without rounded tops, would turning off the adaptive layer heights have any notable impact? I typically use ALH where step off is very noticeable, but I doesn’t seem like that would be the case on the plate with the primary rook-king pieces
You may see more layer lines by tuning off ALH on those pieces but it isn't too noticeable Imo since the painting helps distract from it but they are going to be noticeable if people know what they're looking at.
Hi, I really love the sushi chess, and apart from the chessboard, the print turned out great. But every time I try to make the chessboard movable like a sushi mat, the white connecting pieces break. Does anyone have any tips on how I can improve this? I printed the white connecting pieces with PLA+.
Hi, That's definitely frustrating but I'd love to help you solve that issue! If the white parts are breaking it's likely that they are either fusing to the rest of the print or the filament could need to be dried making it too brittle. I would suggest drying your filament an checking your nozzle for any wear that could cause over extrusion.
Looking forward to printing this --- your other files have all turned out spectacularly. I was just confused by the soy sauce bottles. They just look like empty transparent bottles on the 3mf file, but in your picture they have brown inside... did you actually put soy sauce in them?! 🤔
Yes! I filled mine with real soy sauce!
I am new to printing and this does look a bit ambitious so I may download some simpler ones to start, but was wondering what the transparant PLA is used for.
Hi, The transparent PLA is for the soy sauce bottles!
If I scale the board down, will everything still fit or should I scale it all the same amount? (the board is too large for my printer)
I don’t recommend scaling this model, as doing so may affect the tolerances and fine details built into the design. If you choose to scale it anyway, please note that it may not roll up properly, and I can’t guarantee the outcome of the print.
So this and the cactus chess are likely too big for my printer? Why would you not include sizing in the details so people know before wasting their downloads? First the controller mount missing a super crucial piece and now models that are too large for a LOT of printers with no option to scale down. This sucks and I genuinely feel like I wasted my money on all of this.
Just downloaded the file but there are no soy sauce models in the zip file.
Hi, Those pieces can be found in the Easy Print 3mf!
Do you have any split roll-up mats, or mats that are printed folded on top of each other?. My printer doesn't have the space to print the full mat in multi-color
I do not, but you can manually do a color swap for the board pieces since it is just one layer/color swap. And hand paint the white pieces or leave the all the same main color.
Good morning! I have finally completed everything except plate 5 (sushi pieces) in the 3mf file. The problem that I am struggling with is that I only have one AMS with 4 bays and the 4 colors used for this plate are spread across bays 2, 3, 6, and 8. For all the other plates, I was able to rearrange and change colors since the pieces are single colors, but for this one, I can't seem to find a reasonable method for reordering the colors or adjusting the color mapping.
Could you possibly set it up so the 4 colors needed on plate 5 are spread across the first 4 bays or provide suggestions of how to adjust the colors myself?
Another thing I did while printing is that if I no longer needed a color, I would remove it from the list of colors to use so my brain wouldn't get confused. If you're using Bambu, a screen appears immediately before you commit to the print, displaying your colors and their associated slots, regardless of the order in the list of potential colors.
I was wondering the same thing, but when I printed, I found that the "bay" it shows on your slicer doesn't matter as long as it's in the AMS. If you're using Bambu it will automatically select those colors.
Okay, so are you using the bambu labs filaments that auto detect? I guess I don't understand how exactly that works. I manually export the .gcode files and load them on the sd card and print that way, so I'm not sure how to specify the AMS colors.
You don't need the bambu filament that auto detects. you can use any filament, you just have to manually tell the printer what color and material is loaded into each slot of the AMS. That can be done on the Bambu Handy App, Bambus studio, or printer screen (I don't think the P1 series has the screen capabilities so you would need the app for that printer).
Ah, my apologies. I should have started with that. Which printer are you using? If it's something that requires a manual SD card, then I can only speculate that removing the unnecessary colors from your potential color list should automatically use the correct colors.
Is there a reason you can't send from the slicer to the printer?
Apparently, P1S printers have a hate for these files. First, the hand rolls refuse to print; then the board does not lay down its first layer properly. I've opened the door for the first layer, increased the bed temp to 65 °C, and ensured the plate was clean. (standard gold textured plate that comes with Bambu printers) It had nearly completed the first layer, but for some reason, when it switched to the matte PLA (Bambu Matte White), the little bits came away with the nozzle moving. Any ideas?
If you are still having trouble with the print, even after all of that, I would suggest using glue to help the smaller pieces stick.
I used glue for the third time and slowed down the initial layer little parts kept popping off and then the nozzle snagged on one of the longer bars ;_; im going to go back to try to print the kings again before I try the board again with glue, initial layer slowed, bed temp 65c, and the print head fan going full til for the first layer. I WILL CONQUER THIS CHALLENGE!
Try upping your z-hop for the king and queens as well as the chess board. .6-.8mm should work better
More insulting is when I get through the first layer completely, and the nozzle drags one of the little white pieces with it. And the ovv has no issues past a little stringing, it's when I get to the bambu filaments that issues come up.
I did everything 6 times today alone for the board. I've never had issues like this on other prints. I adjusted the hot bed to 65 °C. Changed the Z hop to 0.8, slowed it down on the initial layer, and made it print the Bambu PLA white matte first. I checked that the nozzle was clean, cleaned the print bed multiple times, and used a glue stick. Every dang time, either a part sticks with the nozzle, blobs, or, in one instance, doesn't print. I even went back to base settings for the last try.
Have you dried out all of the filament before printing? It may have too much moisture in it. It really does sounds like you're doing a lot to get this to work so I'm sorry it's giving you so many issues. Another thing you could do is up your retraction speed under filament ->edit -> settings override. you could take it up to 40mm/s - 60mm/s.
Okay, I'll give that a try tomorrow after my husband has finished some prints he's been wanting to do. I'll also try the retraction speed adjustment after I run the AMS Pro's two dry functions. At least the Z hop adjustment allowed me to print off the kings with no issues.
I really hope it helps! Keep me updated.
And we are to the last 40 or so minutes. I had two false starts yesterday afternoon, and that was with using Magigoo. However, once I figured out the best application pattern, it stuck without any issues. I'll post again with the failure photos and the overall success once it's done.
So my husband brought up a good point after my printer had another coniption dealing with the hand roll files. How would we queen a pawn? Possible solutions include a small hand roll cone, just the nori/soy paper sized to fit over the lucky pawn? Small enough to store tucked into the throne spot, but just big enough to cap the pawn? Just some ideas.
I have a P1s and am currently printing the lid for the box, and I must question the logic of printing the lid with the lip down. There's so much support printing; I don't know if I'll be able to clear it out, or was this a mistake on my part not to flip it? Or did I miss something in the instructions? It also seems that what should be a maybe 2-hour print is nearly 5 hours. There has to be an error on my part lol
Hi, The Box, Lid, box insert, and mat should all print without supports. For the lid you want to print it with the flat side down. It will be rotated correctly by default right when you open the files!
Back after the print finished. WHAT IN THE SORCERY!? I did not expect it to come off so easily, but I am glad it did.
Hello! I am excited to print this but I keep having issues with printing the board. I keep trying to print from the 3mf on my P1S using Elegoo Brown (https://a.co/d/bxXawNj) and Matte Beige (https://a.co/d/bTgNniy), and Bambu Labs Ivory White (https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-matte?id=40489681780872). I have adjusted temperatures, but I keep having issues with the base layer, particularly brown but all somewhat, stringing and/or not sticking. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi timothy, what build plate are you using? That could be playing a factor in why the print won't stick. I would recomend a pei build plate (textured or smooth should be fine), if you aren't already using one. Make sure it is cleaned with dish soap and warm water. Be sure not to touch the surface after you wash it, so you don't transfer any oils over from your hands, and raise the plate tempeture to 65°. It also helps to vent the top of your P1S or to print with the door open.
I ended up having a piece pop off part way through the first attempt, so I washed again and it worked perfectly. Thank you so much. I was getting really frustrated.
Can this be printed on a non multicolor printer? I have a FlashForge 5M Pro.
Hi, you can print it single color, but you would have to hand-paint each piece or do manual color changes. (The manual color changes would likely take a very long time)
It's beautiful! I wish I could feasibly make it to sell but it's too much material. I will probably make one for myself though!
If you make multiple at a time, it gets much more cost effective to produce more! Since color switches only happen once even if you're printing a ton of something, you use almost no extra material.
oh 100%. That's what I do with everything I print if possible. But it's not the sushi rolls that are the most filament intensive part. It's the things I can only fit one of on a plate lol. I did wind up printing one for myself and hand painting just to see the time and cost difference. It might be the price calculator I use, but even printing at 90%, it says I'd have to charge like $75 for it in full color using AMS. Curious if others use a different calculator model?
Regardless, absolutely beautiful print! We have a sushi shop next door to the shop we sell from so I'm thinking about making one for them for customers to play with!
I love the idea but not sure if its me or not but i downloaded the file and have opened the easy print file and seem to have some problems it has thing in groups but only one build plate, the colors are not showing up and are just showing what ever i last used on a print. Also i have a x1c is any scaling needed? the board takes the whole plate and prime tower is in the meddle of it. Not sure what i did to break it.
You will want to make sure your slicer is updated, close the app fully and reopen to try again. If its not up to date it will open just like you're saying.
The print does not need to be scaled; it will fit on the X1C!
The prime tower settings will be saved correctly when you open the 3mf. The Helpful Instructions PDF has the prime tower settings if you want to see those settings specifically thought
Oh thanks, i thought i had bambu updated i guess not its all working right thanks for the help greatly appreciate it
Hi, for the wood filament, did you use a 4 or 6mm nozzle, I've used OVV3d wood before and usually have issues using my 4mm nozzle with my A1. Works great with 6mm. So I was wondering what you used? Thank you
Hi, I used a .4mm nozzle for the whole print. The OVV3D wood filament was only used on the first layer for the darker squares so it caused me no issues.
Nice! That's smart I would have never thought to do that. Thank you
How much filament is it, and does it need magnets?
There are no magnets required for this print. If you have an AMS and print in full color it will be around 1085g total for all components. That can change based on your flushing volumes and printer as well.
Hi; the Queen Sesame Seed _A stl has some wonky painting; it's impossible to paint the sesame seeds without painting the entire cone; otherwise a great print; can we get an updated queen? :)
Hi, You may need to adjust your smart fill angle (or equivalent) in your slicer, to get them to paint it properly. You could also save yourself time and download Bambu Studio to use my 3mf file! I already pre-painted everything for you! (Fyi Bambu Slicer supports more than just bambu printers)
Yep I use the bambu slicer exclusively :) It's the way to go! I'll try an update and adjusting the smart fill angle :)
Any chance a second version will release with alternate kings and queens? Maybe soy sauce, sake, or nori and Wasabi plants? A roll of nori? anything really that makes them stand out more.
Those are all good suggestions! to be honest, i wasnt planning on making different versions of this, but since there's some interest I'll see what I can do.
Sake has traditional containers that might be very nice and painted differently. The soy sauce could be low sodium and not low sodium. I'd love to see what you cook up!
"un-cook" up? lol
Any update?
Definitely some interest. The only thing that I'm not fond of on here is how similar the king and queen are on both sides. Otherwise, amazing product.
Do you need an AMS system to print this or can you print every color separate and glue it together?
You need an AMS or can hand paint it! Just fyi you'll need a 250 mm + build plate. (Bambu Labs A1 equivalent or larger)
It looks amazing! I have a A1 mini, maybe I'll try to scale it down, but can You add bed dimensions requirements in the description? I love your prints but I don't want to waste the download limit for models, that are too big for my printer.
I've scaled it down to 70% and it fit, but the issue im facing is the hinges on the board will not be able to rotate (hence not make the board flexible) so I might need to slice it in half and use small 3x1 magnets to make them attach.
Hi there, we will for sure take that into consideration and see what we can do about adding size requirements!