For anyone printing this, make sure that the bridges are oriented correctly. In order to get a good print in Bambu Slicer, I had to add modifiers to adjust bridges above cable channels, as it was trying to bridge the whole length of the channel, instead of the width.
I have a question for you. How much time does it take to think of a new design, then start designing the model, and then after, trouble shoot it. Also after you could post the new design.
more than you might think. Most designs take 30+ hours of work from ideation to final model. Some less, sometimes way more. Depends how complex the model is, how many iterations there are, and if it requires new skills
Unsure why this is happening, but mine doesn't sit flush, and my usb-c holes at the bottom don't like up? It's completely flush but on like a 45 degree angle, the tower faces the corner of the base... Any solution for this, I just printed as instructed, and didn't change anything print settings wise.
Hi! It looks like maybe it didn't screw on properly, but that is an easy fix. I would suggest unscrewing it and trying to screw it together starting at a different position. After a try or two it should line up.
Awesome print. Came out great first try! I was wondering how you keep your switch controllers from being right on top of eachother. Yours seems to be secured in above the other one where as mine are sitting right on top of eachother.
Thanks for sharing! My spacing looks different because I used a switch 2 controller and a regular switch controller to show that both types can fit on the tower!
This model is been a disaster for me :( It became spagethi 4 times came out of the build plate and when i put it down to print at night it ruined the whole printer and my a1 is now completely broken. For your upcoming designs i recommend to be easier to stick to the build plate.
I’m sorry to hear the print gave you such a tough time; that sounds really frustrating. Bed adhesion can sometimes be tricky depending on the plate and surface condition you have. A helpful tip is to wash the plate with warm water and a little dish soap to remove any residue, then apply a thin layer of a washable glue stick before printing (for pei plate). This usually helps the first layers stick reliably and can prevent the print from coming loose.
Hi, thanks for sharing the picture. It looks to me like the pole may just need a bit of super glue to stay in place. That should be a quick and simple fix to get it secured. Hope this helps!
I know it can feel a little inconvenient, but it can’t be set up as one integrated unit in the file since that would make it less sturdy. For a strong, lasting hold, we recommend using glue as a permanent solution, as mentioned in the Helpful Instructions.
Just out of curiosity, does anybody successfully sell these? By my pricing it would be over $40 because it uses over 1/3 of a roll. Maybe not the place to ask, but I am wondering.
There are many people that have success selling these prints. The controller towers, both the original design and this one, have a lot of different uses, so they are very popular.
Hi, All of my recommended settings are included in the 3mf, if you open it with Bambu Studio. For the Brim, you can decide on if you would like it or not. Some members have found that the brim helps them with the bed adhesion. But it can also make post processing longer. Be sure you have a clean build plate and it may also help to use glue if you don't want to use the brim to help with adhesion
I completely understand how frustrating that error can be. Cura can be a little picky with 3MF files. We recommend opening our 3mf files in Bambu Studio, which is free, supports a wide variety of printers, and super easy to use; the files will open right up with the right settings already in place, to make printing go a lot smoother.
Hi Colby, I want to print this gaming tower but my printer doesnt have enough space to print this at once.
Is there any chance to print the tower in two parts ?
Hi, I completely understand the challenge when a model is bigger than your printer’s build volume. Unfortunately, this one can’t really be cut or downsized since all of the features are designed to work together as a single piece. That being said, you might still be able to make it happen; a lot of public libraries and makerspaces have printers available for use. It might be possible to find one near you that you can utilize.
Hi, The joints fusing is definitely a problem we can help fix. We have the resolution set to 0.012mm in the 3mf which is what Bambu Studio has set as the default resolution. I would also suggest checking your nozzle for signs of wear on it, that could cause over-extrusion. Over-extrusion is a very common issue that is often the cause of fusing tolerances.
Hi! I'm sorry to hear you are having so many issues. There could be a few things going on that we can help fix, to get you printing smoother. If at all possible, could you join our discord channel so we can help with each print individually? I am limited on charecters in this comment section.
In the mean time make sure your P1S door is open while printing and kick all of your fan speeds up to 100% PLA requires a lot of cooling
This is a large model so it does require a lot of filament. You can change the settings to whatever you prefer, but it comes with my recommended settings. If you change the settings, I cannot guarantee the strength or results of the print.
You could also try printing the 1st gen tower if you prefer. It usues slightly less filament.
It's my 3rd attempt today for this version and failed. some overhang area it won't print smoothly. I'm using the Bambu Lab P1S. I didn't change anything in the settings.
Do I need to use support for this model? . When I open the 3FM file, the only settings changed were the sparse infill pattern to Gyroid.
Hi! We also use a P1s when testing these models. I would suggest making sure you are printing with the door open if the overhangs are not coming out smooth as well as slowwing the print down even more for overhangs. These should print rather easy though since none of the overhangs are very sharp.
Hi! Cura often has trouble with 3mf files, which is likely why it isn’t working for you. I’d recommend giving Bambu Studio a try for your slicing software. It’s very user-friendly, works with a wide range of printer brands (not just Bambu), and our 3mf files already include all of our recommended settings—so you’ll be ready to print right away.
I don’t have formal print instructions for this model, but I do recommend using the included Bambu Studio 3MF file. It already has all the settings I use, so it should make getting a great print much easier—no guesswork needed.
Hi, you can print it on any printer as long as you have a large enough build volume. We recommend a plate size of atleast 256 x 256 mm (the same size as Bambu Labs A1, P1 and X1 series printers)
Thank you, according to spec, The Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro has a build volume of 225 x 225 x 265 mm. The actual build plate size is 235 x 235 mm.
So I guess I can or I need to print this in vertical (stand )mode then?
I wouldn’t recommend printing it standing, as it wasn’t designed for that orientation and I can’t guarantee the results. It would also require a lot of supports because of the overhangs. With a larger print area, the intended orientation works much more smoothly, but you’re always welcome to experiment and see what works best for your setup.
Discussions — Gaming Tower - 2nd Generation
Thank you for sharing!
For anyone printing this, make sure that the bridges are oriented correctly. In order to get a good print in Bambu Slicer, I had to add modifiers to adjust bridges above cable channels, as it was trying to bridge the whole length of the channel, instead of the width.
Thank you for the feedback! Just updated the file to correct this!
Finally, even though there was no response, my suggestion on IG was viewed... thank you so much!!
Took me a bit, but finally got to it!
I have a question for you. How much time does it take to think of a new design, then start designing the model, and then after, trouble shoot it. Also after you could post the new design.
more than you might think. Most designs take 30+ hours of work from ideation to final model. Some less, sometimes way more. Depends how complex the model is, how many iterations there are, and if it requires new skills
Hi! It looks like maybe it didn't screw on properly, but that is an easy fix. I would suggest unscrewing it and trying to screw it together starting at a different position. After a try or two it should line up.
Thanks for sharing! My spacing looks different because I used a switch 2 controller and a regular switch controller to show that both types can fit on the tower!
This model is been a disaster for me :( It became spagethi 4 times came out of the build plate and when i put it down to print at night it ruined the whole printer and my a1 is now completely broken. For your upcoming designs i recommend to be easier to stick to the build plate.
I’m sorry to hear the print gave you such a tough time; that sounds really frustrating. Bed adhesion can sometimes be tricky depending on the plate and surface condition you have. A helpful tip is to wash the plate with warm water and a little dish soap to remove any residue, then apply a thin layer of a washable glue stick before printing (for pei plate). This usually helps the first layers stick reliably and can prevent the print from coming loose.
Hi, thanks for sharing the picture. It looks to me like the pole may just need a bit of super glue to stay in place. That should be a quick and simple fix to get it secured. Hope this helps!
Can it be set up as one integrated unit in the file?
I know it can feel a little inconvenient, but it can’t be set up as one integrated unit in the file since that would make it less sturdy. For a strong, lasting hold, we recommend using glue as a permanent solution, as mentioned in the Helpful Instructions.
I see, thank you.
Just out of curiosity, does anybody successfully sell these? By my pricing it would be over $40 because it uses over 1/3 of a roll. Maybe not the place to ask, but I am wondering.
There are many people that have success selling these prints. The controller towers, both the original design and this one, have a lot of different uses, so they are very popular.
Any print can sell successfully; it all comes down to targeting the correct audience and how you market your products.
Hey, when printing this file do I click brim off? Or just leave the setting as is from the downloading of the file?
Hi, All of my recommended settings are included in the 3mf, if you open it with Bambu Studio. For the Brim, you can decide on if you would like it or not. Some members have found that the brim helps them with the bed adhesion. But it can also make post processing longer. Be sure you have a clean build plate and it may also help to use glue if you don't want to use the brim to help with adhesion
Every time I download and open file in cura it says there is no files. What am I doing wrong?
I completely understand how frustrating that error can be. Cura can be a little picky with 3MF files. We recommend opening our 3mf files in Bambu Studio, which is free, supports a wide variety of printers, and super easy to use; the files will open right up with the right settings already in place, to make printing go a lot smoother.
Out of curiosity (I haven't printed it yet), will this also work with the Switch 1 controller?
Yes, this works for both switch controllers! Thanks for asking.
Hi Colby, I want to print this gaming tower but my printer doesnt have enough space to print this at once. Is there any chance to print the tower in two parts ?
Hi, I completely understand the challenge when a model is bigger than your printer’s build volume. Unfortunately, this one can’t really be cut or downsized since all of the features are designed to work together as a single piece. That being said, you might still be able to make it happen; a lot of public libraries and makerspaces have printers available for use. It might be possible to find one near you that you can utilize.
A lot of the joints were fused together. Could it be my resolution was too low? What do you recommend we print it at? Thx
Hi, The joints fusing is definitely a problem we can help fix. We have the resolution set to 0.012mm in the 3mf which is what Bambu Studio has set as the default resolution. I would also suggest checking your nozzle for signs of wear on it, that could cause over-extrusion. Over-extrusion is a very common issue that is often the cause of fusing tolerances.
I'm quite disappointed so far
\I have printed the book nook, it looks okay but rough on top
I printed the guitar holder and twice the one hole is deformed
I printed this controller stand 2 times and both times it has become spaghetti on me.
P1S, Overture Pla, I havent changed any setting except for the type of PLA. Print bed has always been clean
These prints look great but are expensive and take a long time to print and dont seem at all reliable. any help?
Hi! I'm sorry to hear you are having so many issues. There could be a few things going on that we can help fix, to get you printing smoother. If at all possible, could you join our discord channel so we can help with each print individually? I am limited on charecters in this comment section.
In the mean time make sure your P1S door is open while printing and kick all of your fan speeds up to 100% PLA requires a lot of cooling
this is over 500grams, its really expensive. Can it be made cheaper?
This is a large model so it does require a lot of filament. You can change the settings to whatever you prefer, but it comes with my recommended settings. If you change the settings, I cannot guarantee the strength or results of the print.
You could also try printing the 1st gen tower if you prefer. It usues slightly less filament.
Sad day. Too big for the Prusa MK4S. I'll try the v1 model.
It is a large print. I hope the V1 works better for you! They're both great and very useful
It's my 3rd attempt today for this version and failed. some overhang area it won't print smoothly. I'm using the Bambu Lab P1S. I didn't change anything in the settings.
Do I need to use support for this model? . When I open the 3FM file, the only settings changed were the sparse infill pattern to Gyroid.
Hi! We also use a P1s when testing these models. I would suggest making sure you are printing with the door open if the overhangs are not coming out smooth as well as slowwing the print down even more for overhangs. These should print rather easy though since none of the overhangs are very sharp.
when I try to open the file in Cura it says there are no models
Hi! Cura often has trouble with 3mf files, which is likely why it isn’t working for you. I’d recommend giving Bambu Studio a try for your slicing software. It’s very user-friendly, works with a wide range of printer brands (not just Bambu), and our 3mf files already include all of our recommended settings—so you’ll be ready to print right away.
do you have any print instruction on this?
I don’t have formal print instructions for this model, but I do recommend using the included Bambu Studio 3MF file. It already has all the settings I use, so it should make getting a great print much easier—no guesswork needed.
Hello I can print this on Elegoo too right?
Hi, you can print it on any printer as long as you have a large enough build volume. We recommend a plate size of atleast 256 x 256 mm (the same size as Bambu Labs A1, P1 and X1 series printers)
Thank you, according to spec, The Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro has a build volume of 225 x 225 x 265 mm. The actual build plate size is 235 x 235 mm. So I guess I can or I need to print this in vertical (stand )mode then?
I wouldn’t recommend printing it standing, as it wasn’t designed for that orientation and I can’t guarantee the results. It would also require a lot of supports because of the overhangs. With a larger print area, the intended orientation works much more smoothly, but you’re always welcome to experiment and see what works best for your setup.
Thank you, I will try Gen1 Tower, this one seem smaller and seem to fit my Elegoo.