hey, I tried contacting the maker but....they dont respond. How did you make the chessboard with the white tiles? I cant seem to find the 2ndary chessboard color pieces? When I print the "chessboard" it comes out all brown and there is no where to put 2nd color.
The 3mf file will have the “painted” version of the chess board that requires an ams or manual color changes. That’s what I used to make mine. There is now also one that has the tiles separate that you can glue in.
You should be able to see all the stl files you need and the easy print .3mf file, once you download. There is also a helpful PDF in there that can be a lot of help.
A custom color request for a customer. I really enjoy the Mushroom colors and I think this was a great combo! All and all took about 12 hours across two P1Ps!
Such a fun project, I cant wait for my soon to be 12yo daughter to open it on her birthday.
Materials:
Board and light pieces: Overture3D Matte light brown
Light Squares: Polymaker_3D White Marble Polyterra
Gold Squares : un-named import silk gold
Dark pieces: Polymaker Panchroma Starlight Aroura
Endcaps: Roland UV print from the Azzy's Design Works workshop
Paint: Vellejo acrylics
Printer: cobbled and coaxed Sovol3d sorta-voron (SV08)
Printing the board took the longest, it needs organic supports high up to keep the parts from shaking off. End cap threads could use a chamfer, lining up the cap is not easy. I really wish that the end caps matched the sides in bark texture so it looked like a single piece when closed up. The pieces do not stick great with magnets, too much plastic between them. If you can modify the model, sink the pocket for the tiles down a bit. The lid could use magnets as well to hold captured pieces.
Small improvements would make this a 9/10 model, as it downloads, 7/10.
Thank you for the make. The bark texture on the end caps are meant to line up with the bark of the board. I'm not sure why yours aren't lining up. I would check to make sure they're on the correct sides. If they are on the correct sides, you may also not have them threaded together fully; if theres anything in thew way of the treads. But I do like the paint job.
Printed okay. Tree trunks needed a lot of tuning for them to not fall over at 97%. Bed slingers are not the best for these kind of high prints. I printed the chess pieces with a 0.2mm nozzle for more detail. Came out great but needed some additional tuning. All with all really happy with the outcome. Amazing design!
I started printing on a Thursday .. by Friday evening. I downloaded the plans for this printed it out all in blue because I was certain it would fail much to my surprise it did not… and when I say, I started printing the first time I ever 3-D printed something so less than 24 hours I was making this don’t be afraid that it says advanced you can do it
In the files, there is "log_piece_#.stl" and then "Square.stl." That's what you'd have to print out. The easy 3mf files are for a multimaterial printer like a Bambu Lab with AMS. The 3mf file in the root of the zip file has the logs you print and assemble and the squares you print and insert onto the board.
Fun set. As someone else mentioned side 1 and 8 don’t set all the way flat so the pieces see to tip over easily.
Printed without issue (Bambu A1) once I had the proper tree supports setup for the vertical log pieces.
What were your main changes? My A1 print just failed 20mm from the top 🙈 Though I have since seen by the quality near the end that a wobble seems to have started another 20 before that even... When I did enable tree supports (had been using default from the 3mf file) they did not generate correctly.
Printed on my MK4/MMU3. A fun print! I printed the log pieces horizontally with supports on the build plate only.
Assembly was easy. Like others have stated, log section 8 is very different from the other 7 pieces and it makes the board sit funny. The end caps are really snug but after working the edges of the caps/logs over with a file and a deburring tool it’s working well.
I would like an option to print the light colored squares all at once in the log sections using my MMU3 (or ams or whatever). It would look cleaner than glued in pieces.
Printed in IIIDMax PLA+ Brown, Coyote Brown, Vanilla Cream, Copper and Army Green and Eryone Matte Black Forest Green.
I didn’t realize that there was a version of the log ends that were already prepped for multicolor printing so I painted my ends in PrusaSlicer on my own and printed them in multicolor on my MMU3, they turned out great.
Okay, I'm not sure why the photos don't line up how I edit them. But anyways I modified logs 6 and 8 to make the board more flat. If anyone is interested I can figure out the best way to upload them.
hey mate - I would love the modified files, I wish I saw this before I printed, but so irritated that they don't lay flat now that I've finished printing. Wish the OP would update! bailey@joyely.com
Worked well on my A1 mini -- Had to scale parts to 70% to fit on the smaller bed, except the end caps were printed at 71% or 72% scale, otherwise it was too tight a fit on my build. I printed the log pieces out horizontally with supports and had to use 0.5mm craft wire for stringing the hinges (ideally 0.8mm might be better). But all in all, very nice and it scaled well!
its a multi color print, if you have an AMS system or something similar you can "paint" the tiles in your slicer software, or just use the easy print file that comes pre painted. I'd recommend looking up how to do multi color prints on youtube before printing anything.
This printed beautifully with no issues on first try. It came out amazing and customer absolutely LOVED it. They keep it in their travel trailer so when they are out vacationing and camping they have it to take with them. I did bag the chess and checker pieces in there own nice packages that fit inside so they dont have to go through everything every time. I love how you can even use the end pieces for coasters too. I do wish it laid flatter but all in all its a beautiful piece and I will be making more in different colour combinations.
Ooops sorry for uploading the 7th image. It was mistake. It cut out those pieces in the board in the photo editing app and I didnt mean to add it and I dont know how to delete it. Now, I look like an idiot LOL... sorry
To edit your make you can press the 3 dots next to "reply" at the bottom of your make and edit it that way. Thanks for the make! Also, The board was updated recently to have magnets as an option as well as to help the board lay more flat. If you don't have that version I would suggest re downloading and printing again.
Where is the white tiles that are in this video? When I print the chessboard its all brown, how do I get the squares so I can print them in 2nd color and attachk them?
Inspired by ForgeCore, I finally bought my first 3D printer and got a personal recommendation on a printer from Colby. Got my Bambu A1 and some wood PLA and printed this amazing piece. My kids are learning checkers and working thier way up to play chess. Thank you for the awesome design @forgecoreco
I've printed the "board (print in place)" and the print didn't print out the entire wood finish - even though the print showed 100% completion. Also, what about the coloured tiles?? Do I print them separately, and if so how do I attach them to the print in place board? I'm currently taking apart the failed print to retrieve the magnets, hence only 2 pieces are in the picture.
The Print in place board requires an AMS or manual color changes to print the times in different colors. There is also an assembly option if you dont have an AMS. As for the print not finishing, That would likely be a nozzle clog or other printer related issue. If you need more help feel free to reach out more on here or you can also join our Discord.
Thank you for your reply. There was no nozzle clog, it just didn't print fully for some reason. I've had multiple prints before and after with no issues. I'm trying the other version that prints vertical and requires filament to hold it together. Anybody else have this problem?
If the print didn’t finish it is likely a clogged nozzle and you would need to troubleshoot that for your specific printer. The tiles are a color change and are printed in the easy print.3mf unless you chose the one that you have to glue them in manually. The pdf that comes with the download can also help with any issues or questions
Thank you for your reply. There was no nozzle clog - I've printed other items since with zero issues. So, no idea why it didn't work... I read the PDF a few times to see if I missed anything and I believe I followed all directions correctly.
Maybe you could try changing your nozzle temperature of the print and see if that helps. Mine only ever failed when my filament clogged up the nozzle and the printer didn’t detect the failure.
May I please get the original file again? I got the new one and overwrote the original. I appreciate the new file but don’t like it as much as the original. The end caps don’t match up well, the bark doesn’t look as good, and the board doesn’t really lay that much flatter. The original is the one on the left in comparisons and the one where 8 is way too tall in the laying flat. The rest are the new one
Hi, I have a modified version with some improvements. It's a bit messy but it still should have the right names. I changed it to work better for me though. Do you want it?
Observation: Log piece 8 is thicker than the rest so when it's laid flat on a table log piece 8 sits at an angle and if tapped will knock all of the pieces on that log over.
I ended up dremelling 5, 6 and 7 to make the caps fit. They were slightly misprinted by my printer however, so I wouldn't take that as gospel about which pieces are problematic.
Hello I’ve remake this model and I make a tablet game for children… I make a gift for birthday! I’ve decorate all with tape stone or grass.
I haven’t change the impostation for print…
Hi, Make sure your wall generator is set to Arachne! And make sure the bottom surface pattern is set to concentric. That should help fill in the gaps you are seeing and make it look just like a log with nice rings
You can also skip these steps by using the Easy Print 3mf.
Great outcome of the set, only feedback and question: The two caps at top and bottom are holding, but I can imagine them getting looser by time using them.
Is it possible to add two holes for extra magnets to the caps and the corresponding segments of the log to have a long term secure sit of both, the top and bottom cap?
Thank you for your attention and as I already said, marvellous design!
Love this. I've been trying to fix the issue with the tight endcap. I've tried modifying the size of the tabs a bit from the chessboard pieces without any luck. Some have mentioned using a dremel or sanding. What piece seems to be the problem? I can't narrow down exactly is causing the endcap to be so tight. For the time being, I keep a little screwdriver in the set to pry the end off. Also, has anyone found a fix for the thickness of piece 8 that causes that row to tilt slightly? Thanks
I haven't figured it out yet, but when I print the log with my K1 Max and the end caps with my bambu, fit is perfect. So I think it's got to be something in the settings. I just need to take a closer look at this.
Everything looks super! Only note: It looks like the pieces share colors with the board even on the video. Typically chess boards use a slightly different color for the pieces to avoid the piece blending into the board color.
I'm like 80% way through the print and I love it. The design is fantastic, but I noticed a missed opportunity if you want to design it: is there a way to add magnets to the end caps to use to hold captured chess pieces?
That is a great idea, but the end caps aren't large enough to hold all of the pieces with magnets, unfortunately. Plus they double as coasters for your drink while you play!
I'm having issues printing the board. About 50% of the time, when I try to fold the board, the same segment snaps off. I've tried three different printers. Any suggestions?
Hi, I'm sorry you're having this issue. From the stringing I see on the hinges, it looks like you are having adhesion issues with the supports causing the hinges to print smooshed/ fused. You want to make sure you have really good bed adhesion for the supports to prevent the hinges from printing floating.
Am I stupid ?.or what ?
Caps of this version, =>Print in place (the update) doesn't fit with the other part ... Why ?
The old version had not this problem.
Someone else have the same issue ?
I'm so sad, because the version print in place and the idea of magnets is great.
The pieces are designed to line up correctly, though the fit may feel a bit tight at first. In some cases, slight over-extrusion or material expansion during printing can cause alignment issues. A good way to resolve this is to gently apply heat with a heat gun, hair dryer, or torch lighter to soften the part just enough, which will allow the caps to twist fully into place. Then you can twist the caps on and off a few times to make the fit perfect.
My first complicated and BIG print job, I have to say it went very well.
I printed using all 'wood' filaments in Ebony, Sandledwood and Cedar with the pieces in Sandlewood and Moss Green it looks flippin fantastic thank you for a wonderful model.
I actually paid a subscription just for this file ! Couple of tweaks I would suggest ? 1: When its rolled flat its a bit wobbly a few 'hidden' hi points on the log side would solve this. 2: Magnet pause option in the board & Pieces
Anyone else have issues with the chanterelle mushroom? Keeps popping off at about 75%, even with raft, glue, and brim. I am on the struggle bus with this one dang piece. Everything else printed out beautifully. I do wish the board sat flat. I'm not sure I can sell them as they are, but I do think they would sell!
Anyone find a good solution for the tolerances? I have a problem with top and bottom, cannot get them on. currently I have to spend quite some time with my dremel tool.
Hey, is anyone else having trouble with the build? Everything printed out beautifully, but the tolerances on the assembly holes are wayyyy too tight, can't get the filament string into the first set of holes, let alone the entire length of the board (and 8x, right?). Have been working on it for over an hour, tried using wire, and other tools to open the holes, but no go.
Sadly, this does not seem to be true anymore:
"This model goes great with the Squiggly Squirrel by LUDO. As a ForgeCore member you get unlimited access to the entire LUDO catalogue!"
NO access to LUDO
Thanks for pointing this out! We recently made some changes with the launch of our new website, and access to the LUDO catalog is no longer included. That description hasn’t been updated everywhere yet, and we’re actively correcting it. We appreciate you flagging this and apologize for the confusion. You can read all about our new website on out members post: https://thangs.com/designer/ForgeCore/post/Make%20the%20Switch%F0%9F%94%A5-252115
We highly encourage you check it out!
so i printed out the multipart board, i haven't changed any size settings from the stl and printed using the recommended instructions but i can't get the filament length through any of the holes... am i missing something or is it supposed to be so tight please
Hi, I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing fit issues, I know that can be frustrating! The fit is meant to be tight on the filament but it should still go in. To salvage the board you have already printed, you can use a torch lighter or heat gun to carefully warm the holes just enough to get the filament through. If you need ideas for how to fix future prints, let me know and I can try and help you with that too.
Is it possible to just be able to print the chanterelle chess piece? Mine got damaged when removing the support and wanted to print that singularly rather than the whole set again
Hi, You can definitely do that. right click the pieces and click "split objects" you will have to manually add the pause to the slicer but you can do that by slicing the plate and then right clicking on the layer bar to the right on the layer you want to add the pause to. make sure you choose the layer that is one layer before the hole closes.
Hi, I'm so sorry to hear that you're having trouble with the hinges; sometimes you have to wiggle the hinges a bit extra to get them to bend. You may hear a 'crack' sound i there is any pieces used together but they should become movable after you hear that small sound. I recommend trying it slowly as to not actually break it.
Printed well, but I have two different sets of 3mm magnets and neither fit. I used 2mm magnets, but they rattle around a bit inside the board and aren't super strong. Has anyone else had this problem?
Hi there! That does sound like a frustrating predicament. The magnets I used are linked in the listing and I’d recommend those, but any 5mm x 3mm magnets should fit. If they feel too tight, slight filament swelling or over-extrusion can cause that, let me know if you'd like setting changes that can help fix that. However, If you prefer 5mm x 2mm magnets, a small drop of glue will help keep them in place when you go to insert them too.
Hello everybody, I'm new to the 3d printing world and I need a hint on how to insert the magnets mid print.I got the magnets in the description but if I stop the print on layer 23 the printer moves them around. I got an a1 mini but i kept the original sizes and just divided the 32 pieces in two different plates. I kept the default setting. They just stuck the printer itself I have no fixes. For instance i never printed something whit magnets so every tip would be amazing. Hope someone helps me:)
I am experiencing issues with the .3mf file when printing the print-in-place chessboard. I keep receiving the "A G-code path goes beyond the plate boundaries." error in Bambu Studio on a Mac. I am nudging it slightly to try to correct the error but it continues to return. Any advice or tips would be appreciated! Thanks.
Hi, you want to make sure the purge tower is also positioned properly on the plate. Sometimes when you switch printers it’ll move itself to a new location on the plate and it needs to be manually moved, to work. It is a very tight fit onto the plate with both of them but I assure you it does fit on there.
So please correct me if I am wrong, but I am confused.
If I print the full chess board and add magnets while printing, and then print the pieces with magnets, will the polarities line up considering my build plate is held in place with a huge magnet?
Hi, When you insert the magnets into the chess board, you want to make sure you are inserting them all in the same direction. For the Chess pieces, you will want to insert the magnets with the reverse polarity of the chess board, so the pieces magnetize to it properly. The build plate being magnetic shouldn't affect anything.
are the end caps supposed to line up with the boars? i noticed the file names didn't match the numbers on the ends of the assembly board pieces. end caps seem way off.
The end caps should fit snug but they should still line up with the board.
Make sure there isnt anything in the threads of the cap causing it to get stuck. :)
I have the same issues has the others, How did you make the chessboard with the white tiles, even with the AMS the board is all one color no tiles, in the picture it looks like tiles are a seperate and white beige.
You have to paint the 2nd color squares on the board lol? is the square file hidden some where else? I dont get it. Everyone has 2 colors on their chessboard, dosnt look like that is possible unless you paint it, or there is missing files.
The design does not make sense. In the photos it has multi color like how a chess board should be. But the files, board is all one color and its flat, with no where to print to "lighter" colored chess board pieces and there is no squares included in the file to make it multie colored.
Hello - what do you use to open the 3mf file? Prusa Slicer throws an error and Cura says there are no part files in the 3mf.
Alternatively, are there separate STL files for the different colored pieces and the squares for the board? The STLs in the download don't have the end-grain or the separate squares either as parts or as bodies within the STL file itself.
Thanks
My printer only handles one filament at a time but I love this idea for a gift. I printed the board and it came out beautifully but of course its all one solid color - I'm debating whether painting the squares would be the best solution or trying to print thin tiles in a new color would be possible/ look better - can anyone share the dimensions of their square tiles? Is is it possible to get a file for thin tiles to adhere to to board for people who don't have a multi-color option?
I can't seem to find the files for the different colored squares. I don't have a multicolor printer. Is this board not the same as gazzaladra's with the snap in squares?
I'm a little confused why the files haven't been updated, the mushrooms barely stand up and the fidget fox isn't included? Is that just me? It's otherwise lovely, but I'm pretty disappointed by that.
Was the file updated to the screw top version just uploaded? and if so... when I load the board.. it loads flat, but photo above shows on end... since pieces are grouped together it also looks like it has to print as one piece, which end is to go down (the one that says bottom) or edge of 1 or 8?
With the new update, the board doesn't seem to have edges, to paint the squares for the board. Also, the spiral seems to be missing on endcaps. How should I proceed?
Is there a way to put combine the tiles with the log pieces? I don't like printing vertical because I feel like there's a higher failure rate the higher you go especially with skinny pieces. Also when I printed the tiles, not all of them where flush with the log indents or there would be a corner sticking up. It would be much easier if I could just paint the checkboard myself in the slicer that have to glue each tile in. Is that an option that I missed?
Has anyone figured out a solution for 1&8 not setting completely level? That has been my only issue. When playing, pieces tend to tip over when placed on these segments. I've tried making some modifications to the pieces of "bark" causing the issue, but not had any luck.
Figured out the end caps. I accidently downloaded the 3mf as a STL - which of course meant it didn't contain any of the printing information. Don't be like me!
Are there versions of the end caps that are already set up for MMU/ multi color printing? It seems like everyone managed to figure it out but when I open the 3mf files the top and Bottom are just plain [Using prusa slicer if that is the problem?]
Is it a typo for the layer height... says a .4mm nozzle, with chess pieces to be printed at .08, which isn't possible (to my knowledge) with a .4mm nozzle.. is it meant to say .28?
I'm running into something weird with the chess pieces and curious if anyone else has encountered this and has any tips on correcting it. I've printed the knight, pawns and rook pieces and they all have a gap/hole in the top of them. The rooks and pawns have an opening right at their tip, and the kings have an opening in the bottom of the mushroom's "bowl". I'm using PrusaSlicer, and can see the hole in my preview too. I've tried layer heights from .05 .25, different infills, perims, etc.
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but looking for support. I used the .3mf to print the log pieces with my bambu x1c using the bambu slicer, both times that I've tried so far I get a spaghetti failure around 90%. I even tried slowing everything WAY down. All settings seem to match what you say... I'm just not sure whats going wrong currently. Is there a different slicer that will work better for this?
Quick question on the log pieces... you mention that all STLs are oriented correctly, when I opened the log STLs it appears that they are oriented vertically and taller than the max range of my printer... would there be any issue if I printed them laying horizontally on my bed at an angle to get them to fit?
I made this and it came out beautifully. That said, I don't like the pieces. They look too much alike. I would love it if some alternatives were uploaded.
I have a multi-filament printer. Is there a version where I can print multi-color board columns, so I don't have to print and assemble the other color squares separately?
So using filament to hold the log pieces together.... I don't know about anyone else, but my filament when not kept dry does tend to snap... (maybe it doesn't get the opportunity to in its location/use) But is that not a concern? And has anyone used anything else for this part?
Try cleaning your build plate with dish soap and water. Then add a bit of glue. It may also help to only print several tiles at a time. Adhesion is a bit of a mystery.
The tiles print flat. If you re download the file they will be in the correct orientation when you load it into the slice, or you can manually move the part to be flat side down.
The log segments are printed vertically with tree sports. Make sure to orient it so the tile pegs have the arch on the top side so they print well. This allows the bark texture to turn out great.
Discussions — Forest Chess Set - Log and Mushroom Chess Board - Checkers
hey, I tried contacting the maker but....they dont respond. How did you make the chessboard with the white tiles? I cant seem to find the 2ndary chessboard color pieces? When I print the "chessboard" it comes out all brown and there is no where to put 2nd color.
The 3mf file will have the “painted” version of the chess board that requires an ams or manual color changes. That’s what I used to make mine. There is now also one that has the tiles separate that you can glue in.
I Have the same problem did you find a fix?
There is an updated version with the times separate now
Do you have a multi color printer where you can paint the different parts?
Yours looks so good! How did you do the painting if you don't mind sharing?
Hi, where did you find this model? I bought , but I have another STL forthe board?
You should be able to see all the stl files you need and the easy print .3mf file, once you download. There is also a helpful PDF in there that can be a lot of help.
Thank you for the make. The bark texture on the end caps are meant to line up with the bark of the board. I'm not sure why yours aren't lining up. I would check to make sure they're on the correct sides. If they are on the correct sides, you may also not have them threaded together fully; if theres anything in thew way of the treads. But I do like the paint job.
How did you get the secondary tile pieces to print there arent any in the file and no holes for them either
They are the same as the other tiles. Just print them in a different color. The assembly version works very well.
how did you get the tiles file? its not included in the download. I dont want my chessboard to be all brown because then its not really a chessboard.
hey, where did you find the tiles file? I'd like my chessboard to have 2nd color tile with out painting it.
In the files, there is "log_piece_#.stl" and then "Square.stl." That's what you'd have to print out. The easy 3mf files are for a multimaterial printer like a Bambu Lab with AMS. The 3mf file in the root of the zip file has the logs you print and assemble and the squares you print and insert onto the board.
Fun set. As someone else mentioned side 1 and 8 don’t set all the way flat so the pieces see to tip over easily.
Printed without issue (Bambu A1) once I had the proper tree supports setup for the vertical log pieces.
quick question Did you just scale the print to your A1? or how did you fit the file on your build plate?
What did you use for support? I am printing on a P1S
What were your main changes? My A1 print just failed 20mm from the top 🙈 Though I have since seen by the quality near the end that a wobble seems to have started another 20 before that even... When I did enable tree supports (had been using default from the 3mf file) they did not generate correctly.
I split the tree pieces into 2 prints... 1-4 and then 5-8. Enabled Tree(auto) Style Organic
Yeah I didn't realize how bad it was until someone called it out.
Okay, I'm not sure why the photos don't line up how I edit them. But anyways I modified logs 6 and 8 to make the board more flat. If anyone is interested I can figure out the best way to upload them.
I would be interested in the file as well, username @gmail.com.
I got an error sending to you
Sorry, just now seeing this. Yes I will try to remember tonight.
I'm about to start printing this model. Can you please send me the edited files. Thank you Trent3393@yahoo.com
Sent. I think I got everyone on here so if you haven't gotten the files just let me know.
kreative-kreations@hotmail.com - sorry wrong email before. Thanks.
If you would like, I'm interested as well! My E-mail is mwnmulder@hotmail.com thanks!
Hi bainter85, could you send your edit to ForgeCore to add it to the download file? Thanks!
Can you send them to my username at gmail dot com, please? Thank you!
Sorry, just now seeing this. Yes I will try to remember tonight.
i'm also interested since I love the board itself but can't play like that. could you send those to me? heideland-behandelt0p@icloud.com many thanks!
I'm interested in the modded files too! username @outlook.com
I'm trying to print this set for christmas, I'd really appreciate it if you could send me those files aswell! profiquack@gmail.com
hey mate - I would love the modified files, I wish I saw this before I printed, but so irritated that they don't lay flat now that I've finished printing. Wish the OP would update! bailey@joyely.com
Please send me the file thanks. My email is zhangdong0571@gmail.com.
If possible, please send me the files! Thanks in advance, email is goaliemanbribri @gmail
I wouldn't mind the files as well if you're still offering to send them. jarronmorris1@gmail.com
Can i please get the modified files. I have a bambu printer. Not use if that matters. THANKS!
hey could you please help me out too, jamesliu7771@gmail.com
I would love to get the files please 🙏 j.inbarlevi@gmail.com
I'd be interested in the modified files for logs 6 and8
I am interested in the file. please send to dataqueery@gmail.com
I would be interested in the file as well! Thank you! cyucatonis@gmail.com
Hello, would you please send the files for logs 6 and 8 please? Email is serenade034 at gmail dot com.
Thank you!
Could you send me the file to joel7712 at hotmail dot com?
I'm interest in these as well please, username@gmail!
I'm interested if it's still possible
need an email
I'm interested in the files.
Please send me the optimised File
how did you get the tiles file? its not included in the download. I dont want my chessboard to be all brown because then its not really a chessboard.
Hi there - I don't quite understand, what stopped you just scaling everything down to, say 70% and pritning in place? why did you need craft wire?
Hi there - I don't quite understand, what stopped you just scaling everything down to, say 70% and pritning in place? why did you need craft wire?
how did you get the tiles file? its not included in the download. I dont want my chessboard to be all brown because then its not really a chessboard.
its a multi color print, if you have an AMS system or something similar you can "paint" the tiles in your slicer software, or just use the easy print file that comes pre painted. I'd recommend looking up how to do multi color prints on youtube before printing anything.
Ooops sorry for uploading the 7th image. It was mistake. It cut out those pieces in the board in the photo editing app and I didnt mean to add it and I dont know how to delete it. Now, I look like an idiot LOL... sorry
To edit your make you can press the 3 dots next to "reply" at the bottom of your make and edit it that way. Thanks for the make! Also, The board was updated recently to have magnets as an option as well as to help the board lay more flat. If you don't have that version I would suggest re downloading and printing again.
Thank you for telling me that! I did get to delete that bad picture. I feel better now and thank you also for letting me know about the update
We're happy to help. Thank you for posting a great make.
Your painted top and bottom cap looks awesome. However, I cannot find it. The files provided are only single color.
This will be added later today!
Hey any update on this?
The painted caps is in the 3mf file when you download all the files!
I believe what you're looking for is in the 3mf file for the painted top and bottom pieces that can be printed in multi-color.
how did you get the tiles file? its not included in the download. I dont want my chessboard to be all brown because then its not really a chessboard.
The Print in place board requires an AMS or manual color changes to print the times in different colors. There is also an assembly option if you dont have an AMS. As for the print not finishing, That would likely be a nozzle clog or other printer related issue. If you need more help feel free to reach out more on here or you can also join our Discord.
Thank you for your reply. There was no nozzle clog, it just didn't print fully for some reason. I've had multiple prints before and after with no issues. I'm trying the other version that prints vertical and requires filament to hold it together. Anybody else have this problem?
I'm printing with both an X1C &P1S with AMS's.
So far, the only other times I've seen this happen were with either a nozzle clog, or a printer firmware bug.
If the print didn’t finish it is likely a clogged nozzle and you would need to troubleshoot that for your specific printer. The tiles are a color change and are printed in the easy print.3mf unless you chose the one that you have to glue them in manually. The pdf that comes with the download can also help with any issues or questions
Thank you for your reply. There was no nozzle clog - I've printed other items since with zero issues. So, no idea why it didn't work... I read the PDF a few times to see if I missed anything and I believe I followed all directions correctly.
Maybe you could try changing your nozzle temperature of the print and see if that helps. Mine only ever failed when my filament clogged up the nozzle and the printer didn’t detect the failure.
If you print the new board using adaptive layer heights it looks a lot better imo not perfect obviously but definitely better
Hi, I have a modified version with some improvements. It's a bit messy but it still should have the right names. I changed it to work better for me though. Do you want it?
Hi, we have made quite a few changes to the chess board since the first release. I would suggest redownloading it if you are having any issues.
There was talk of updates to this... any idea when and or if they are still happening?
Observation: Log piece 8 is thicker than the rest so when it's laid flat on a table log piece 8 sits at an angle and if tapped will knock all of the pieces on that log over.
Are the tolerances for the top/bot supposed to be super tight?
I am having the opposite issue. I need a little more bite from the top and bottom pieces. LOL
I had the same Issue there seems to be no tolerances built in seem like everything is sized with the assumption your printer and filament is perfect.
What did you do to fix it if anything? I've got the dremel out right now haha!
same issue here, the top/bottom caps are super tight, basically they don't fit
I ended up dremelling 5, 6 and 7 to make the caps fit. They were slightly misprinted by my printer however, so I wouldn't take that as gospel about which pieces are problematic.
Hi, Make sure your wall generator is set to Arachne! And make sure the bottom surface pattern is set to concentric. That should help fill in the gaps you are seeing and make it look just like a log with nice rings
You can also skip these steps by using the Easy Print 3mf.
I have used the 3mf files. Tried again and same result unfortunately.
Are you getting these results in Bambu studio with using a .4 nozzle?
Unfortunately, yes
So sorry about that. The issue should be fixed now if you redownload the file.
Thank you so much! This file worked like a charm for some reason!
I'm glad we got the issue resolved. Thank you for bringing it to my attention. Happy Printing!
Great outcome of the set, only feedback and question: The two caps at top and bottom are holding, but I can imagine them getting looser by time using them. Is it possible to add two holes for extra magnets to the caps and the corresponding segments of the log to have a long term secure sit of both, the top and bottom cap? Thank you for your attention and as I already said, marvellous design!
I am working on a solution here
Love this. I've been trying to fix the issue with the tight endcap. I've tried modifying the size of the tabs a bit from the chessboard pieces without any luck. Some have mentioned using a dremel or sanding. What piece seems to be the problem? I can't narrow down exactly is causing the endcap to be so tight. For the time being, I keep a little screwdriver in the set to pry the end off. Also, has anyone found a fix for the thickness of piece 8 that causes that row to tilt slightly? Thanks
I haven't figured it out yet, but when I print the log with my K1 Max and the end caps with my bambu, fit is perfect. So I think it's got to be something in the settings. I just need to take a closer look at this.
FYI it looks like the 3mf is missing 1 Pawn and 1 Bishop (I think this is the right piece) for each set.
I updated the 3mf file. Thank you!
Just encountered this as well can confirm its the pawn and bishop one each missing. I cloned them and saved the 3mf for the future.
I don't see the 3mf referenced in the pdf
I am still working on it. Should be out soon!
Everything looks super! Only note: It looks like the pieces share colors with the board even on the video. Typically chess boards use a slightly different color for the pieces to avoid the piece blending into the board color.
I'm like 80% way through the print and I love it. The design is fantastic, but I noticed a missed opportunity if you want to design it: is there a way to add magnets to the end caps to use to hold captured chess pieces?
That is a great idea, but the end caps aren't large enough to hold all of the pieces with magnets, unfortunately. Plus they double as coasters for your drink while you play!
Hi, I'm sorry you're having this issue. From the stringing I see on the hinges, it looks like you are having adhesion issues with the supports causing the hinges to print smooshed/ fused. You want to make sure you have really good bed adhesion for the supports to prevent the hinges from printing floating.
The caps should fit properly onto the rolled up board. Are you having an issue with them being too tight or too loose?
I have the same problem. I used the Print in Place on a P1S and the caps do not match up at all.
The pieces are designed to line up correctly, though the fit may feel a bit tight at first. In some cases, slight over-extrusion or material expansion during printing can cause alignment issues. A good way to resolve this is to gently apply heat with a heat gun, hair dryer, or torch lighter to soften the part just enough, which will allow the caps to twist fully into place. Then you can twist the caps on and off a few times to make the fit perfect.
Does anybody know how to split the stl into objects to print the board and the tiles separately?
Does anybody know how to split the stl into objects to print the board and the tiles separately?
Does anybody know how to split the board model into objects to print separate colors separately?
I Took this fill and added 5x3 magnets to all pieces and the board, can i send it to you somehow?
My first complicated and BIG print job, I have to say it went very well. I printed using all 'wood' filaments in Ebony, Sandledwood and Cedar with the pieces in Sandlewood and Moss Green it looks flippin fantastic thank you for a wonderful model. I actually paid a subscription just for this file ! Couple of tweaks I would suggest ? 1: When its rolled flat its a bit wobbly a few 'hidden' hi points on the log side would solve this. 2: Magnet pause option in the board & Pieces
@forgecore Are there any updates on logs 1 & 8 edits, by chance? Thank you.
having issues useing the 3mf file in cura it says there are no models in c:... ECT
Same here, did you by any chance find a fix for this?
Anyone else have issues with the chanterelle mushroom? Keeps popping off at about 75%, even with raft, glue, and brim. I am on the struggle bus with this one dang piece. Everything else printed out beautifully. I do wish the board sat flat. I'm not sure I can sell them as they are, but I do think they would sell!
I also wish the ends locked in place or fit tighter. They fit fine, but I think they will fall off if transported anywhere.
I am working on a threaded end cap so that the log stays together much more reliably
Awesome! I figured out my issue with the mushroom popping off. I replaced my bed and it works great. Looking forward to the updated log
Anyone find a good solution for the tolerances? I have a problem with top and bottom, cannot get them on. currently I have to spend quite some time with my dremel tool.
This was so fun to paint and put together!! I did it as a gift for a friend and he absolutely loved it!!
Thank you!!
Hey, is anyone else having trouble with the build? Everything printed out beautifully, but the tolerances on the assembly holes are wayyyy too tight, can't get the filament string into the first set of holes, let alone the entire length of the board (and 8x, right?). Have been working on it for over an hour, tried using wire, and other tools to open the holes, but no go.
I had a hard time with that too, I went through each hole individually with the filament then all together at the end.
I ended up using .065 diameter weedeater line. It was still pretty tight, but I think that was mostly due to my paint getting in there
I'm having the same issue here
any way we can get the files with supports and orientation already in place?
Yes, the 3mf file (when you download all files) has that!
Hi! It's possible to have the 3MF file? Love it!
Yes! It has been added!
If each space was a tile piece I wonder if this could also be magnetic
I made a magnetic version but it will not let me upload my make. Keep getting error messages. I will keep trying.
@excalibur5681 were you ever able to upload, and if so, where would we find one with magnetic tiles?
I had this same thought
Might be working on a V2…
I think the end caps magnetic would be nice, but not sure how well that might hold up..... magnets are pretty strong though.
Sadly, this does not seem to be true anymore: "This model goes great with the Squiggly Squirrel by LUDO. As a ForgeCore member you get unlimited access to the entire LUDO catalogue!" NO access to LUDO
Thanks for pointing this out! We recently made some changes with the launch of our new website, and access to the LUDO catalog is no longer included. That description hasn’t been updated everywhere yet, and we’re actively correcting it. We appreciate you flagging this and apologize for the confusion. You can read all about our new website on out members post: https://thangs.com/designer/ForgeCore/post/Make%20the%20Switch%F0%9F%94%A5-252115 We highly encourage you check it out!
so i printed out the multipart board, i haven't changed any size settings from the stl and printed using the recommended instructions but i can't get the filament length through any of the holes... am i missing something or is it supposed to be so tight please
Hi, I'm sorry to hear you're experiencing fit issues, I know that can be frustrating! The fit is meant to be tight on the filament but it should still go in. To salvage the board you have already printed, you can use a torch lighter or heat gun to carefully warm the holes just enough to get the filament through. If you need ideas for how to fix future prints, let me know and I can try and help you with that too.
Is it possible to just be able to print the chanterelle chess piece? Mine got damaged when removing the support and wanted to print that singularly rather than the whole set again
Hi, You can definitely do that. right click the pieces and click "split objects" you will have to manually add the pause to the slicer but you can do that by slicing the plate and then right clicking on the layer bar to the right on the layer you want to add the pause to. make sure you choose the layer that is one layer before the hole closes.
i printed the log board and the hinges from the pla arent going into the part to make it move and its mainly 5 6 and 1 and 2
Hi, I'm so sorry to hear that you're having trouble with the hinges; sometimes you have to wiggle the hinges a bit extra to get them to bend. You may hear a 'crack' sound i there is any pieces used together but they should become movable after you hear that small sound. I recommend trying it slowly as to not actually break it.
Printed well, but I have two different sets of 3mm magnets and neither fit. I used 2mm magnets, but they rattle around a bit inside the board and aren't super strong. Has anyone else had this problem?
Hi there! That does sound like a frustrating predicament. The magnets I used are linked in the listing and I’d recommend those, but any 5mm x 3mm magnets should fit. If they feel too tight, slight filament swelling or over-extrusion can cause that, let me know if you'd like setting changes that can help fix that. However, If you prefer 5mm x 2mm magnets, a small drop of glue will help keep them in place when you go to insert them too.
Bonjour, Tu devrais faire le même genre mais pour le jeu des "petits chevaux" ! mes petites filles adorent y jouer en voyage. Merci pour ton aide. ;)
Thank you for the suggestion! I'm so glad you like it!
Hello everybody, I'm new to the 3d printing world and I need a hint on how to insert the magnets mid print.I got the magnets in the description but if I stop the print on layer 23 the printer moves them around. I got an a1 mini but i kept the original sizes and just divided the 32 pieces in two different plates. I kept the default setting. They just stuck the printer itself I have no fixes. For instance i never printed something whit magnets so every tip would be amazing. Hope someone helps me:)
Hi, I believe we answered this on the Discord channel for you but if you need anymore help please reach out again! Thank you for joining!
I am experiencing issues with the .3mf file when printing the print-in-place chessboard. I keep receiving the "A G-code path goes beyond the plate boundaries." error in Bambu Studio on a Mac. I am nudging it slightly to try to correct the error but it continues to return. Any advice or tips would be appreciated! Thanks.
Hi, you want to make sure the purge tower is also positioned properly on the plate. Sometimes when you switch printers it’ll move itself to a new location on the plate and it needs to be manually moved, to work. It is a very tight fit onto the plate with both of them but I assure you it does fit on there.
I can't seem to find the squirrel?
Hi, you can find the squirrel on the LUDO page. As a ForgeCore member you should have access to all LUDO Models. https://than.gs/m/1191527?image=1965732
So please correct me if I am wrong, but I am confused.
If I print the full chess board and add magnets while printing, and then print the pieces with magnets, will the polarities line up considering my build plate is held in place with a huge magnet?
Hi, When you insert the magnets into the chess board, you want to make sure you are inserting them all in the same direction. For the Chess pieces, you will want to insert the magnets with the reverse polarity of the chess board, so the pieces magnetize to it properly. The build plate being magnetic shouldn't affect anything.
Hey, does anyone still have the old design? Thank you
There are multiple versions in the new update. One that is print in place as well as an assembly version.
are the end caps supposed to line up with the boars? i noticed the file names didn't match the numbers on the ends of the assembly board pieces. end caps seem way off.
The end caps should fit snug but they should still line up with the board. Make sure there isnt anything in the threads of the cap causing it to get stuck. :)
I have the same issues has the others, How did you make the chessboard with the white tiles, even with the AMS the board is all one color no tiles, in the picture it looks like tiles are a seperate and white beige.
does anybody know how to split the stl into objects to print the chess board on a single color printer?
Does anyone know how to "split the stl into objects to print the tyles on a non multi color printer?
ok, there is no tile pieces to print and no holes for them on log pieces. its a joke?
did anyone print theres on an A1 and have a fix for the board fitting on the build plate?
I just reduced my print by 10%
Any plan to add inset magnets into the board and the pieces? I would LOVE that update!
where is the tiles?
WHERE ARE THE TILES? why delete post and not even answer the question?
You have to paint the 2nd color squares on the board lol? is the square file hidden some where else? I dont get it. Everyone has 2 colors on their chessboard, dosnt look like that is possible unless you paint it, or there is missing files.
The design does not make sense. In the photos it has multi color like how a chess board should be. But the files, board is all one color and its flat, with no where to print to "lighter" colored chess board pieces and there is no squares included in the file to make it multie colored.
Hello - what do you use to open the 3mf file? Prusa Slicer throws an error and Cura says there are no part files in the 3mf. Alternatively, are there separate STL files for the different colored pieces and the squares for the board? The STLs in the download don't have the end-grain or the separate squares either as parts or as bodies within the STL file itself. Thanks
My printer only handles one filament at a time but I love this idea for a gift. I printed the board and it came out beautifully but of course its all one solid color - I'm debating whether painting the squares would be the best solution or trying to print thin tiles in a new color would be possible/ look better - can anyone share the dimensions of their square tiles? Is is it possible to get a file for thin tiles to adhere to to board for people who don't have a multi-color option?
I can't seem to find the files for the different colored squares. I don't have a multicolor printer. Is this board not the same as gazzaladra's with the snap in squares?
I'm a little confused why the files haven't been updated, the mushrooms barely stand up and the fidget fox isn't included? Is that just me? It's otherwise lovely, but I'm pretty disappointed by that.
Was the file updated to the screw top version just uploaded? and if so... when I load the board.. it loads flat, but photo above shows on end... since pieces are grouped together it also looks like it has to print as one piece, which end is to go down (the one that says bottom) or edge of 1 or 8?
Have the files been updated for the #8 log piece?
With the new update, the board doesn't seem to have edges, to paint the squares for the board. Also, the spiral seems to be missing on endcaps. How should I proceed?
So sorry! I had to update the 3mf because it wasnt painted. Please download it again, it will be pre-painted now
I am having trouble with the small hinges breaking. I wish they were longer for more strength. Anyone else have this problem?
Is there a recommended type of glue for connecting the plastic with magnet?
How do I get the multi color for the ends?
Is there a way to put combine the tiles with the log pieces? I don't like printing vertical because I feel like there's a higher failure rate the higher you go especially with skinny pieces. Also when I printed the tiles, not all of them where flush with the log indents or there would be a corner sticking up. It would be much easier if I could just paint the checkboard myself in the slicer that have to glue each tile in. Is that an option that I missed?
Has anyone figured out a solution for 1&8 not setting completely level? That has been my only issue. When playing, pieces tend to tip over when placed on these segments. I've tried making some modifications to the pieces of "bark" causing the issue, but not had any luck.
I used superglue for the chess tiles but it looks like the superglue somehow went through the tile and turned the tiles a bit white
I had to shave off part of log 8 to get it to lay flat, but it's still a very nice piece.
Figured out the end caps. I accidently downloaded the 3mf as a STL - which of course meant it didn't contain any of the printing information. Don't be like me!
Are there versions of the end caps that are already set up for MMU/ multi color printing? It seems like everyone managed to figure it out but when I open the 3mf files the top and Bottom are just plain [Using prusa slicer if that is the problem?]no matter what I download it is still just stl files with no details. Which one did you end up getting?
Is there a version with logs 1 and 8 sitting level?
Is it a typo for the layer height... says a .4mm nozzle, with chess pieces to be printed at .08, which isn't possible (to my knowledge) with a .4mm nozzle.. is it meant to say .28?
No, there is not a typo.
Layer height: 0.08 mm Line width: 0.4 mm
Note the items in bold, layer height and line width are different things and both accurate and achievable with a 0.4mm nozzle.
I'm running into something weird with the chess pieces and curious if anyone else has encountered this and has any tips on correcting it. I've printed the knight, pawns and rook pieces and they all have a gap/hole in the top of them. The rooks and pawns have an opening right at their tip, and the kings have an opening in the bottom of the mushroom's "bowl". I'm using PrusaSlicer, and can see the hole in my preview too. I've tried layer heights from .05 .25, different infills, perims, etc.
Figured it out - had to up my perimeter overlap percentage to 30% from the default of 15% in PrusaSlicer.
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but looking for support. I used the .3mf to print the log pieces with my bambu x1c using the bambu slicer, both times that I've tried so far I get a spaghetti failure around 90%. I even tried slowing everything WAY down. All settings seem to match what you say... I'm just not sure whats going wrong currently. Is there a different slicer that will work better for this?
Quick question on the log pieces... you mention that all STLs are oriented correctly, when I opened the log STLs it appears that they are oriented vertically and taller than the max range of my printer... would there be any issue if I printed them laying horizontally on my bed at an angle to get them to fit?
you can print them horizontally without too much difficulty. Add supports for the hinges
What filament did you use for the lighter brown acorn pieces?
Can anyone tell me what you have done to correct the end caps if they are too tight? We need to use a screwdriver to remove one end.
I made this and it came out beautifully. That said, I don't like the pieces. They look too much alike. I would love it if some alternatives were uploaded.
I have a multi-filament printer. Is there a version where I can print multi-color board columns, so I don't have to print and assemble the other color squares separately?
I am working on a horizontally printed log without all the complicated tile assembly. It will be out in the next few days.
Can't wait to print this but it seems like you've been working on on some significant improvements. Can you quantify "out in the next few days"?
So using filament to hold the log pieces together.... I don't know about anyone else, but my filament when not kept dry does tend to snap... (maybe it doesn't get the opportunity to in its location/use) But is that not a concern? And has anyone used anything else for this part?
What would be the best orientation to print the log pieces if my MK4 isn't tall enough to print them vertically? :)
you can print it flat on the chessboard side. it may need support for the tile spaces.
How do you print those 32 squares as they keep falling over even with brim? Suggestions
The tiles print flat. Just an fyi. I realized that the orientation the STLs load into was vertical, that has been corrected.
Try cleaning your build plate with dish soap and water. Then add a bit of glue. It may also help to only print several tiles at a time. Adhesion is a bit of a mystery.
Do we need support for the tiles?
The tiles print flat. If you re download the file they will be in the correct orientation when you load it into the slice, or you can manually move the part to be flat side down.
Apologies for the multiple make uploads. I kept getting error messages and didn't realize any were even getting uploaded. Please delete duplicates.
When you set up the log support did you do "tree(auto)" > "Default" > "20 degrees" > "On built plate only".
Did you have "Support critical regions only" or "Remove small overhangs" checked at all?
Yes, check both
Sorry I am new to the printing aspect and a friend of mine wants me to print this. Do I need to add supports to the board pieces as it is printing
yes, you print the board vertically and add support on the bottoms, (on build plate only)
The 3MF file only has the color as black, in the future can we get these all within one file.
The updated 3mf will be added tomorrow! Needed to tweak the file a bit first
I think this is your best design yet! fantastic looking piece.
Files look to be the old 3MF. Can you please advise?
Click "Download All" and the correct 3mf will be in that folder download
Did you print standing up or laying down?
The log segments are printed vertically with tree sports. Make sure to orient it so the tile pegs have the arch on the top side so they print well. This allows the bark texture to turn out great.
The tiles are also printed vertically? Why?
They print flat. the STL was loading in an incorrect orientation. I just fixed it