I love this one the most! It is so fun and beautiful. The color combination is fantastic too. Though I may change the flower colors next time I print it to add more variety
(for sand used PLA+) My Son printed this for his friends birthday on 11 Dec. Great print had difficulties along the way but ForgeCore helped with those and cant wait for the reaction.
Lovely models. Already printed a second one with different colors for the cactus part of the pieces, found it kinda hard to differentiate just based on the pot color.
Me and Battery polarity..Otherwise it printed nicely. Love using the matte filaments for prints like this. The checkers expansion of turtles is just icing on the cake.
Fun print. I printed a mix of Bambu red, brown, wood and black filaments with Esun PLA+ green and bone filaments which resulted in a few pieces being too tight or too loose...a Dremel and A little e7000 glue took care of that. I also ran into an issue where one plate of squares and pots layer shifted after I had added the magnets. The parts cut open easily so I was able to recover the magnets and then I broke that plate down into 2 plates and moved all the bits to the front of the plates so that I wouldn't have to adjust the bed position while inserting the magnets.
What else can I try? I have printed on 2 p1s units and an A1. Installed a new horned and calibrated each printer. I have three that have the last two segments stuck together and a break between 2 and 3. I’m willing to try anything at this point. Are there any settings I can check?
Hi, there are two potential fixes that could help. The first suggestion I have is to change the z-seam position to ‘random’. This will help keep seams that are printing too close together from overlapping.
The second suggestion is to print a temperate tower to see if you can manually calibrate your filament to get it printing stronger so that the hinges don’t snap so easily for you. Here is a link on how to do it in Bambu studio https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/bambu-studio/Calibration
Printed Great on my Prusa Core One with Polymaker filaments (jungle green, red, savannah yellow matte, and Panchroma marble brick). Unfortunately I don't have any type of AMS/MMU yet so all my color changes had to be done via pausing at specific layers and switching the filament. I'll probably paint the Queen's flowers red at some point.
Hi, The picture cut out but It could be an error caused by the added pause we have in the file. You can try opening it in Bambu studio to export it as a generic 3mf or stl if you'd like to try it that way.
The 3MF file format is compatible with other slicers as well, though Bambu Studio tends to work best with our designs. We’ve chosen to provide only the 3MF format to keep things simpler and more straightforward for all makers, not just those with advanced experience. Offering both STL and 3MF was causing confusion for many users, so this change helps ensure a smoother experience for everyone.
I printed the cactus board using the 3mf file, but I cannot get it to open. It's a solid, round cactus. I managed to split the seam and have tried opening it, but it does not want to open at the hinges at all. Any advice on how to get this portion of the game to work?
Hi! Thanks for reaching out. The tolerances on this board are a bit tight, so if it’s not opening at all, the hinges likely fused during printing. Sometimes a gentle but firm wiggle along the seams/ hinges will free it up, but if it still doesn’t move, it may need a reprint with slightly lighter extrusion, a bit more cooling, or a slower print speed to help the hinges stay separate.
Hi!
Has anyone fix this problem?
I read about a similar case and I tried setting the seam position to random and used 215 ° C, but it didn’t work…help!
I want my cactus chess 🌵
Hi! I completely understand how frustrating it can be when a print doesn’t come out as expected. From your picture, it looks like the hinges may be fusing together. A few things that can help: slowing down your print speed on the A1, checking your nozzle for wear, and setting all fan speeds to 100% in Bambu Studio. These adjustments often make a big difference with tall prints or tighter tolerances and should help prevent the hinges from fusing.
Love the design and it looks amazing! The only thing is the reference image in the instructions aren't correct for the placement of the chess tiles. I just sadly already glued them in before I looked at a proper chess board XD. Hopefully nobody else makes the same mistake I made
Hi! I would suggest marking a magnet with a marker or tape and using one side for tiles and one for pieces. Or you can use magnet pens like these and use one for the tiles and one for the pieces.
is this and all of your 3d models fit on the a1 mini?
Edit: nvm I found another comment like this, so my only question is is there any chess sets that fit on the a1 mini?
I do believe the Gourd Games set can fit on the A1 Mini. You’ll just need to adjust and rearrange the plates a bit to make everything fit comfortably. It might take a little trial and error, but it should work smoothly if you’re up for that!
Hi, PrusaSlicer seems to dislike all of our files. I highly suggest trying out Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer as both of those slicers work much better to open all of our files, they should also have all of our recommended print settings when you open them the these slicers
Hi I have printed everything but the cactus pieces arent fitting into the pots I used Pla for both things and same brand just different colours do you have any tips?
Hi if the cactus pieces aren't fitting onto the pots it could mean that there is some 'elephant foot' going on with the first layer of the print. A way to fix the pieces without re-printing, would be to use a heat gun or lighter to heat the hole slightly to soften the plastic enough to get them on the pots. If you prefer to re-print, you can increase the 'elephant foot compensation' in your slicer to account for the extra material smoosh you've experienced
Hi, it looks like the AD5x build volume is just a tad to small to fit the cactus. There also isn't a whole lot of wiggle-room for scaling this design as it may mess with the tolerances we have build into the hinges. You could possibly try scaling it on your own but I cannot guarantee the success of the print. This model does need a build volume of 225mm on the z axis
Not compatible with my printing software and cannot open the files. marked as a 3d object by my computer. Not stl or 3mf. supremely disappointing all round. Definitely wasted my money but oh well, I'll be sure to cancel my subscription because none of your products work for my printer, they can't be scaled and the ONLY thing that actually worked, was missing a critical piece.
Hey I'm really sorry you feel this disappointed. I replied to your comment on the controller holder too, but Please email me ForgeCoreCo@gmail.com so I can sort this out for you. I'd hate for you to feel like you're subscription was wasted.
Hi, I get that can be super frustrating when it's just a bit too big for your current printer. I don't really recommend sizing this model down, as that could mess with the tolerances in the hinges but if you want to give it a try you can. I just can guarantee the outcome. you also need to be sure you scale the other parts the same amount
I am struggling a bit with the pawns. They are coming out stringy and messy on top. Everything else has been top notch. Any suggestions for the print settings? I've tried slowing it down, but I would guess retraction for this bambu filament? Appreciate any help
I'm sorry to hear you are struggling with them, I know that is super disappointing. I would suggest making sure your cooling setting are increased to 100% if they aren't already. I would also double check your nozzle for any wear to see if it is causing any over extrusion. You can also join our Discord server and get faster/ more thorough help any time.
You shouldn’t need supports for the cactus chess board. However, depending on your printer, you may want to adjust your settings. Slowing down the print speed can help ensure a smoother print and prevent issues
This Cacti Chess model is one of my all-time favorites! Brilliant design! And I love the addition of the checkers pieces--especially the turtle that stands to be king. Could you make a frog that is laying down but sits up on its front legs when king?
Is there a file for the chess pieces that allows for the different color pieces to print separately? I have the centauri carbon and it can’t do multicolor printing yet
We do not, The chess pieces only have the single piece option. You can do manual color changes or print them in a single color and hand paint them, though.
Yes the magnets are 5mm x 3mm and should fit easily into the holes. I have the ones I used in the description. If they aren't fitting your print, I would double check that you don't have any over-extrusion or print quality issues causing the impossible fit for you. I would also measure your magnets to be sure they are the correct size
it would be awesome if you could use the same hinge mechanism on the forest chess set as you did on the cacti. the cacti is pretty badass and feels more premium.
The print in place forst chess set and this cactus chess set are very similar in hinge styles but they are also different models that required slightly different designs to have both lay flat like they do. We have done a lot of updating of the forest chess set since its first release, It truly has come a long way.
Hi! If you are confident in your settings with PETG you should be able to print this model with it. But I designed it for PLA so I cannot be sure if the tolerences are large enough for if the PETG expands during printing.
Okay, I have all the colours loaded into my AMS as follows:
1-Matte Green
2-Matte Desert Tan
3-Matte Terracotta
4-Matte Scarlet Red
How do you map the right colours to the chess pieces as they are not seperate objects in the 3mf file? I currently have green bases, sand cactii and green flowers? Surely I don't have to paint each once piece by piece?
Hi! When you open the 3mf in Bambu studio It will open pre-painted with the colors I have set. you do not want to change the filament colors in the slicer unless you want them to be a different color. you can however change the filament type if you need to.
Here is a helpful wiki page that will help explain how to print multicolor with an AMS. I don't have enough charecters to do it myself in a single comment.
Hi, It should print support free, just make sure you have really good build plate adhesion and a clean buildplate. I recommend cleaning your plate with dishsoap and warm water before printing
I'm using a FlashForge 5m pro. Had to scale everything to 95% and was still able to insert magnets. I was able to take the main seam off where the 6 magnets are located. However, 6 of the seams were stuck together and would not unroll. Applying some force would just snap the seams off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, The tolerances built into the design would likely not allow for the model to be scaled down; even to 95%. That would likely be the cause of the hinges fusing together. You _could _however play with some settings to try and get it to print, even scaled down, but I cannot guarentee the results, since it was not designed to be scaled. You can try lowering your filament flow ratio and slowing the print way down, as well as moving the seams so they don't have a chance at overlapping.
I wish there was a way to insert wires for hinges instead of having them print fully in PLA. I have had 2 of these snap while assembling simply because I wasn't supporting both sides while picking up. The hinge insert snaps right at the base and top of each hinge, so it's not a printing problem its simply because the material isn't strong enough.
Hi! We put this design through heavy testing before releasing it, so if the hinges are breaking easily when using our Easy Print 3mf settings, it might be worth checking your filament settings. Sometimes increasing the print temperature can improve layer bonding, which helps with overall print strength. I’d recommend running a temperature tower test to find the ideal temperature for your specific filament and printer combination—it can make a big difference!
This is a really frustrating circumstance. It seems like a fun print and I love chess, but since the only provided files are 3mf files with a pause between layers, it doesn't work with several slicing softwares. I'm not about to download Bambu's proprietary software when I also don't have a Bambu printer. Therefore I have to specifically use Orcaslicer (which I am not at all familiar with) to turn each individual piece into an STL. Then I can proceed as normal. This is extremely frustrating.
The 3MF format should still work with several different slicing programs, and we’ve tested that to make sure. We’ve found Bambu Studio works best for our files since it’s what we use most often, but you’re welcome to use other slicers if you prefer. Bambu Studio can also work with non-Bambu printers and is designed to be very user-friendly, which is why we encourage people to try it out.
My download included 3 file: CactiChess 3mf, Expansion Pack - Checkers 3mf, and an instructions pdf. The instructions refer to an "easy print 3mf file" which I am guessing requires less assembly. Does anyone know where I can access the easyprint 3mf?
Noticed this unevenness in a section of the cactus board... would it be possible for this to be corrected? Love this print... one of my favorites of all times!
Thanks so much! That slight unevenness is just part of the design and shouldn’t affect the print’s function or durability. Glad to hear it’s one of your favorites!
It is only available in the 3mf but you can export the individual files into stl format if needed. Right click the part you want to export and select "export stl"
That's unfortunate. It does not export the file correctly this way. I would like to separate some single color prints to use on my smaller printers that do not read 3mf files.
Two easy questions. First, do the magnets just set into place on the green large cactus piece itself where the tile pieces go into? Second, for the mini terracotta pots, I can see in the layers there is a section to where a pause layer can be added to drop in a magnet. However, do you just snip out the "support" of the way to make room to drop the magnet in? Or is there a way to remove those few layers that are building up the support if a magnet isn't to be used?
Hi, yes the 6 magnets on the cactus board just get set in to the openings. You may want to add glue if you feel you need it. As for the tiles and pots, there should be a pause at layer 20 to add the magnets. The holes should all be open when it pauses. If they are not, I would suggest redownloading if you were fast to download it, as the original file has been updated to fix the pause issue. If you don't want to add magnets you can just remove the pause and it should still print the same
Two quick questions. 1. Did anyone glue the magnets in place? I wonder whether they will not be attracted to the metal nozzle if I don't. 2. Can I lower the hot bed for adding the magnets? Will the printer raise the bed again or will I get sphagetti?
Hi, You can definitely glue in the magnets if you would like. Just be sure to use a glue that doesnt expand when it dries. The nozzle shouldn't attract the magnets but it can in some instances. We haven't had it happen with our printers though. If you are using a P1 or X1 you CAN lower the bed to insert the magnets and it will go back to the right height on it's own.
Works excellently without glue. The reason being probably that the magnetic force pulling it to the plate by far outweighs the metal content in the nozzle. Now I only need to figure out how to get the polarity right always! :D
Can you help me? I just finished printing this but lost one square for the chessboard. How do I print just one more without needing to print the whole set again?
Hey there!
I love this model, but unfortunately don't have a multicolor printer.
Would it be possible to make the pieces printable in parts and to later glue them together?
Thank you :D
Are you sure that the pause is set correctly? If I open this with Bambu Studio 2.1.1.52 the pause is set at layer 22. By then the holes are closed. No problem really to change this, but I think this could be updated.
I just did my first print and had an issue with the board. The end two pieces will not bend to flatten. The second and third section also came apart when we opened it after letting it cool. I am using a Bambu p1s. Any solutions or setting we should adjust?
Hi! If you are having issues with printing the board using a P1S, my first guess would be to check your nozzle for any wear. If it hasn’t been replaced in a long time or after a good amount of use, it could be worn down and can cause over extrusion. The best way to check is to compare it to a new nozzle and see how the two compare.
Hi, as I see you provide 3mf only for bambuu. Could you also provide this for prusa? Because I think that color change on flowers you not describe... especially with only one tool head because it need change the filament color manual as well...
In Orcaslicer you can right click a model and export it as an STL. I had the same issue with mono-color but I managed to just print the queen and rooks and used a marker to make them red.
Hi, we only offer the one 3mf and he’s we do use Bambu for our 3mf but it should open in all slicers. You may have to manually paint the pieces in the slicer if they don’t import pre-painted in your slicer.
I may make a crack or pop noise but it shouldn't take too much force to seperate unless your printer fused the tolerences together. If it is fused together you will likely need to reprint. You have to make sure your filament is calibrated and that the nozzle doesn't need replaced. Over extrusion is the biggest cause of prints fusing together
Discussions — CactiChess - Roll up Cactus Chess Set
Looks Amazing!
This turned out great! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for sharing! The magnet polarity can be tricky!
Hi, there are two potential fixes that could help. The first suggestion I have is to change the z-seam position to ‘random’. This will help keep seams that are printing too close together from overlapping. The second suggestion is to print a temperate tower to see if you can manually calibrate your filament to get it printing stronger so that the hinges don’t snap so easily for you. Here is a link on how to do it in Bambu studio https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/bambu-studio/Calibration
*hotend
Hi, The picture cut out but It could be an error caused by the added pause we have in the file. You can try opening it in Bambu studio to export it as a generic 3mf or stl if you'd like to try it that way.
So, we're just supposed to install Bambu studio on our devices? Why can't you provide the regular STLs in the .zip?
The 3MF file format is compatible with other slicers as well, though Bambu Studio tends to work best with our designs. We’ve chosen to provide only the 3MF format to keep things simpler and more straightforward for all makers, not just those with advanced experience. Offering both STL and 3MF was causing confusion for many users, so this change helps ensure a smoother experience for everyone.
I can't wait to print this! It looks so beautiful and cool!
Thank you Miranda!
Hi! Thanks for reaching out. The tolerances on this board are a bit tight, so if it’s not opening at all, the hinges likely fused during printing. Sometimes a gentle but firm wiggle along the seams/ hinges will free it up, but if it still doesn’t move, it may need a reprint with slightly lighter extrusion, a bit more cooling, or a slower print speed to help the hinges stay separate.
Hi! I completely understand how frustrating it can be when a print doesn’t come out as expected. From your picture, it looks like the hinges may be fusing together. A few things that can help: slowing down your print speed on the A1, checking your nozzle for wear, and setting all fan speeds to 100% in Bambu Studio. These adjustments often make a big difference with tall prints or tighter tolerances and should help prevent the hinges from fusing.
Love the design and it looks amazing! The only thing is the reference image in the instructions aren't correct for the placement of the chess tiles. I just sadly already glued them in before I looked at a proper chess board XD. Hopefully nobody else makes the same mistake I made
Sorry about that! We just went in and fixed it. so its correct now, if you redownload.
could i get a link to the website for the magnets
Hi! The magnets I use are linked in the description.
Thank you, genius, I've wanted a cactus chessboard for a long time
Thank you! I'm glad you like it!
I love the chess sets, great products and so unique.
Thank you!
This is brilliant and the reason why I am an annual subscriber
Thank you! I can't wait to see your make!
Any tips on getting the magnets in the tiles and pots the correct way the first time? I'm worried I'm going to get it backwards haha
Hi! I would suggest marking a magnet with a marker or tape and using one side for tiles and one for pieces. Or you can use magnet pens like these and use one for the tiles and one for the pieces.
In bambu stuido on the cactus part it don't have supports do I need to turn supports on?
Hi! It doesn't need supports
is this and all of your 3d models fit on the a1 mini? Edit: nvm I found another comment like this, so my only question is is there any chess sets that fit on the a1 mini?
I do believe the Gourd Games set can fit on the A1 Mini. You’ll just need to adjust and rearrange the plates a bit to make everything fit comfortably. It might take a little trial and error, but it should work smoothly if you’re up for that!
The CactiChess.3mf file has an error, at line 501, when trying to use PrusaSlicer2.9.4 Can you please either correct the issue or upload STL files?
Hi, PrusaSlicer seems to dislike all of our files. I highly suggest trying out Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer as both of those slicers work much better to open all of our files, they should also have all of our recommended print settings when you open them the these slicers
What file had the error because I had a couple errors whilst printing too I might be able to give advice
Hi I have printed everything but the cactus pieces arent fitting into the pots I used Pla for both things and same brand just different colours do you have any tips?
Hi if the cactus pieces aren't fitting onto the pots it could mean that there is some 'elephant foot' going on with the first layer of the print. A way to fix the pieces without re-printing, would be to use a heat gun or lighter to heat the hole slightly to soften the plastic enough to get them on the pots. If you prefer to re-print, you can increase the 'elephant foot compensation' in your slicer to account for the extra material smoosh you've experienced
Any suggestions on printing this on AD5x?
Hi, it looks like the AD5x build volume is just a tad to small to fit the cactus. There also isn't a whole lot of wiggle-room for scaling this design as it may mess with the tolerances we have build into the hinges. You could possibly try scaling it on your own but I cannot guarantee the success of the print. This model does need a build volume of 225mm on the z axis
Not compatible with my printing software and cannot open the files. marked as a 3d object by my computer. Not stl or 3mf. supremely disappointing all round. Definitely wasted my money but oh well, I'll be sure to cancel my subscription because none of your products work for my printer, they can't be scaled and the ONLY thing that actually worked, was missing a critical piece.
Hey I'm really sorry you feel this disappointed. I replied to your comment on the controller holder too, but Please email me ForgeCoreCo@gmail.com so I can sort this out for you. I'd hate for you to feel like you're subscription was wasted.
The board is too big for Flashforge AD5X as is. Any suggestions on scaling or other settings?
Hi, I get that can be super frustrating when it's just a bit too big for your current printer. I don't really recommend sizing this model down, as that could mess with the tolerances in the hinges but if you want to give it a try you can. I just can guarantee the outcome. you also need to be sure you scale the other parts the same amount
Should I use support on the big cactus?
It was designed to not need supports so you should be fine without them. you may just have to slow you printer down if you have any issues.
I am struggling a bit with the pawns. They are coming out stringy and messy on top. Everything else has been top notch. Any suggestions for the print settings? I've tried slowing it down, but I would guess retraction for this bambu filament? Appreciate any help
I'm sorry to hear you are struggling with them, I know that is super disappointing. I would suggest making sure your cooling setting are increased to 100% if they aren't already. I would also double check your nozzle for any wear to see if it is causing any over extrusion. You can also join our Discord server and get faster/ more thorough help any time.
would you recomend printing the main cactus body(the chess board) with or without supports
You shouldn’t need supports for the cactus chess board. However, depending on your printer, you may want to adjust your settings. Slowing down the print speed can help ensure a smoother print and prevent issues
This Cacti Chess model is one of my all-time favorites! Brilliant design! And I love the addition of the checkers pieces--especially the turtle that stands to be king. Could you make a frog that is laying down but sits up on its front legs when king?
Thank you so much for your support! I will look into adding the frogs to the idea list.
Is there a file for the chess pieces that allows for the different color pieces to print separately? I have the centauri carbon and it can’t do multicolor printing yet
We do not, The chess pieces only have the single piece option. You can do manual color changes or print them in a single color and hand paint them, though.
bonjour c'est vraiment du 5X3??? car j'ai acheter des aiment 5X3 il sont plus grand que les trous...... donc impossible de les ajouté
Yes the magnets are 5mm x 3mm and should fit easily into the holes. I have the ones I used in the description. If they aren't fitting your print, I would double check that you don't have any over-extrusion or print quality issues causing the impossible fit for you. I would also measure your magnets to be sure they are the correct size
BTW , hinge mechanism is the best ive seen by far
Thank you for the feedback!
it would be awesome if you could use the same hinge mechanism on the forest chess set as you did on the cacti. the cacti is pretty badass and feels more premium.
The print in place forst chess set and this cactus chess set are very similar in hinge styles but they are also different models that required slightly different designs to have both lay flat like they do. We have done a lot of updating of the forest chess set since its first release, It truly has come a long way.
Before i get started,Is there any reason i cant use PETG?
the cactus and the pot were excellent in petg, the pieces were better in PLA. I used the new H1S printer. freakin boss
Hi! If you are confident in your settings with PETG you should be able to print this model with it. But I designed it for PLA so I cannot be sure if the tolerences are large enough for if the PETG expands during printing.
Okay, I have all the colours loaded into my AMS as follows: 1-Matte Green 2-Matte Desert Tan 3-Matte Terracotta 4-Matte Scarlet Red
How do you map the right colours to the chess pieces as they are not seperate objects in the 3mf file? I currently have green bases, sand cactii and green flowers? Surely I don't have to paint each once piece by piece?
Hi! When you open the 3mf in Bambu studio It will open pre-painted with the colors I have set. you do not want to change the filament colors in the slicer unless you want them to be a different color. you can however change the filament type if you need to. Here is a helpful wiki page that will help explain how to print multicolor with an AMS. I don't have enough charecters to do it myself in a single comment.
Thanks, printed and posted pictures
Hello, does this file need supports? I'm slicing and its recommending but if it doesn't need it i don't want to waste the filament
Hi, It should print support free, just make sure you have really good build plate adhesion and a clean buildplate. I recommend cleaning your plate with dishsoap and warm water before printing
I'm using a FlashForge 5m pro. Had to scale everything to 95% and was still able to insert magnets. I was able to take the main seam off where the 6 magnets are located. However, 6 of the seams were stuck together and would not unroll. Applying some force would just snap the seams off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, The tolerances built into the design would likely not allow for the model to be scaled down; even to 95%. That would likely be the cause of the hinges fusing together. You _could _however play with some settings to try and get it to print, even scaled down, but I cannot guarentee the results, since it was not designed to be scaled. You can try lowering your filament flow ratio and slowing the print way down, as well as moving the seams so they don't have a chance at overlapping.
thank you
Can you print this on A1 mini?
It does not. The cactus board would be too tall for the A1 mini
I wish there was a way to insert wires for hinges instead of having them print fully in PLA. I have had 2 of these snap while assembling simply because I wasn't supporting both sides while picking up. The hinge insert snaps right at the base and top of each hinge, so it's not a printing problem its simply because the material isn't strong enough.
Hi! We put this design through heavy testing before releasing it, so if the hinges are breaking easily when using our Easy Print 3mf settings, it might be worth checking your filament settings. Sometimes increasing the print temperature can improve layer bonding, which helps with overall print strength. I’d recommend running a temperature tower test to find the ideal temperature for your specific filament and printer combination—it can make a big difference!
could i get a link to the website for the magnets LOVE the print soooooo much and just wanna get the right ones
Hi! I'm so glad you like it! The magnets are linked in the discription!
Can you tell me the size of magnets please I can't see it linked
hey are 5x3mm You can find them under the "Hardware" link
This is a really frustrating circumstance. It seems like a fun print and I love chess, but since the only provided files are 3mf files with a pause between layers, it doesn't work with several slicing softwares. I'm not about to download Bambu's proprietary software when I also don't have a Bambu printer. Therefore I have to specifically use Orcaslicer (which I am not at all familiar with) to turn each individual piece into an STL. Then I can proceed as normal. This is extremely frustrating.
The 3MF format should still work with several different slicing programs, and we’ve tested that to make sure. We’ve found Bambu Studio works best for our files since it’s what we use most often, but you’re welcome to use other slicers if you prefer. Bambu Studio can also work with non-Bambu printers and is designed to be very user-friendly, which is why we encourage people to try it out.
My download included 3 file: CactiChess 3mf, Expansion Pack - Checkers 3mf, and an instructions pdf. The instructions refer to an "easy print 3mf file" which I am guessing requires less assembly. Does anyone know where I can access the easyprint 3mf?
The easy print 3mf is the cactichess 3mf. This print does require a lot of assembly
Noticed this unevenness in a section of the cactus board... would it be possible for this to be corrected? Love this print... one of my favorites of all times!
Thanks so much! That slight unevenness is just part of the design and shouldn’t affect the print’s function or durability. Glad to hear it’s one of your favorites!
Is this available in individual files? I am only showing the 3mf files with everything together.
It is only available in the 3mf but you can export the individual files into stl format if needed. Right click the part you want to export and select "export stl"
That's unfortunate. It does not export the file correctly this way. I would like to separate some single color prints to use on my smaller printers that do not read 3mf files.
Orcaslicer also works if you aren't a fan of Bambu.
If you are exporting through the 3mf in Bambu Studio, It will export the files as single color stl files.
Two easy questions. First, do the magnets just set into place on the green large cactus piece itself where the tile pieces go into? Second, for the mini terracotta pots, I can see in the layers there is a section to where a pause layer can be added to drop in a magnet. However, do you just snip out the "support" of the way to make room to drop the magnet in? Or is there a way to remove those few layers that are building up the support if a magnet isn't to be used?
Hi, yes the 6 magnets on the cactus board just get set in to the openings. You may want to add glue if you feel you need it. As for the tiles and pots, there should be a pause at layer 20 to add the magnets. The holes should all be open when it pauses. If they are not, I would suggest redownloading if you were fast to download it, as the original file has been updated to fix the pause issue. If you don't want to add magnets you can just remove the pause and it should still print the same
Will 5x2.8 and 5x3 magnets both work?
They should still work they will just sit further in the holes.
Which one is idea? The description states 5x3 but the amazon link is for 5.28.
Both work fine. The ones linked are the ones we use.
Two quick questions. 1. Did anyone glue the magnets in place? I wonder whether they will not be attracted to the metal nozzle if I don't. 2. Can I lower the hot bed for adding the magnets? Will the printer raise the bed again or will I get sphagetti?
Hi, You can definitely glue in the magnets if you would like. Just be sure to use a glue that doesnt expand when it dries. The nozzle shouldn't attract the magnets but it can in some instances. We haven't had it happen with our printers though. If you are using a P1 or X1 you CAN lower the bed to insert the magnets and it will go back to the right height on it's own.
Also on the A1 you can raise the nozzle and it works the same :)
I use a P1S, so I will definitely give it a try. Will do an experiment with and without glue. Thanks for the quick reply.
Works excellently without glue. The reason being probably that the magnetic force pulling it to the plate by far outweighs the metal content in the nozzle. Now I only need to figure out how to get the polarity right always! :D
I like to reccomend these magnet pens. you can print 2 and have one set for each polarity so you know it is always correct each time. https://makerworld.com/en/models/60890-embedded-magnet-dispenser-tool-for-3d-prints?from=search#profileId-63102
How cool is that. Will give it a try.
Do the checkers pieces accept magnets as well?
No, the checkers do not have magnets
Can you help me? I just finished printing this but lost one square for the chessboard. How do I print just one more without needing to print the whole set again?
Hi, you can right click and split the tiles into objects. Just remember to add a layer pause for the magnet. Here is a how to video: https://youtu.be/SBewgnA0Z2s?si=UDvn9lcWRyQxuD3U
Hey there! I love this model, but unfortunately don't have a multicolor printer. Would it be possible to make the pieces printable in parts and to later glue them together? Thank you :D
Hi, We do not offer a split version but you can paint it in single color and hand-paint the pieces.
That's unfortunate, please mention it in the description.
In my experience, using a marker works well too.
Are you sure that the pause is set correctly? If I open this with Bambu Studio 2.1.1.52 the pause is set at layer 22. By then the holes are closed. No problem really to change this, but I think this could be updated.
Hi there! Did you recently download the model? I originally had both tiles set to the wrong layer and corrected it to layer 20.
Downloaded it like 2h ago for the first time and it still was on the wrong layer. Now it works though. Great work. Thanks for answering so quickly.
Are the checker sets in a different file?
The checkers were added to this file. You will want to re-download. It won’t count toward your downloads to redownload a file.
I just did my first print and had an issue with the board. The end two pieces will not bend to flatten. The second and third section also came apart when we opened it after letting it cool. I am using a Bambu p1s. Any solutions or setting we should adjust?
Hi! If you are having issues with printing the board using a P1S, my first guess would be to check your nozzle for any wear. If it hasn’t been replaced in a long time or after a good amount of use, it could be worn down and can cause over extrusion. The best way to check is to compare it to a new nozzle and see how the two compare.
Hi, as I see you provide 3mf only for bambuu. Could you also provide this for prusa? Because I think that color change on flowers you not describe... especially with only one tool head because it need change the filament color manual as well...
In Orcaslicer you can right click a model and export it as an STL. I had the same issue with mono-color but I managed to just print the queen and rooks and used a marker to make them red.
Hi, we only offer the one 3mf and he’s we do use Bambu for our 3mf but it should open in all slicers. You may have to manually paint the pieces in the slicer if they don’t import pre-painted in your slicer.
The split you have at layer 20 makes Prusaslicer and LycheeSlicer not able to properly load the 3mf file. Thankfully Orcaslicer still works.
I can't wait for the prints to be finished! However I after printing the cactus I can't unseparate the seam. Any ideas?
I may make a crack or pop noise but it shouldn't take too much force to seperate unless your printer fused the tolerences together. If it is fused together you will likely need to reprint. You have to make sure your filament is calibrated and that the nozzle doesn't need replaced. Over extrusion is the biggest cause of prints fusing together