The test print creates a perfect 2-layer shell and prints perfectly. However, the actual sword creates a 4-layer shell with the exact same settings. I believe that this is why many people are getting seam issues. I have not been able to tweak the settings to make the sword model revert to a two-layer shell for the blade. Advice?
Hi, my printer printed the test piece perfectly not a hit of a seam or any sticking, so I brought the big model in and sliced and started printing, it fused all the way down the blades after a 15 hour print, so i printed the test pieces again and they printed perfectly, iv dismantled the printed blades and can see there's a ridge of fusing all the way down, I printed Concentric with the line width to .43.
still a very nice model
I wonder if it has something to do with heat or cooling since the test print was fine. I would tune the seam as small as you can with the test print. What temperature material are you printing at? Maybe also try the lower end of the temperature allowed by the material.
Make sure detect thin walls is checked, it's likely not seeing the first layer. (Happened to me when I first attempted to do this one on a .6 nozzle before watching the youtube troubleshooting video and learning about the exact widths of each piece.
I cant really tell you what setting to use as I don't have your printer/slicer. I would just slice it as normal and see the results. Make sure the segments are not touching anywhere including the layer seam. Even little strings between seams can cause issues.
Discussions — Katana Test Print
The test print creates a perfect 2-layer shell and prints perfectly. However, the actual sword creates a 4-layer shell with the exact same settings. I believe that this is why many people are getting seam issues. I have not been able to tweak the settings to make the sword model revert to a two-layer shell for the blade. Advice?
I don't see how the slicer can squeeze four >.4mm line widths in a wall that is only .85mm thick?
Have you ever thought about making Inuyasha's sword (Tessaiga) transformed large form?
I'll have to check that out!
creality ender 3 v3 SE Do you know the settings for this brand If you know that could you please tell me
I would just print it with different retraction setting to find what works the best for your printer.
everything prints fine but at the bottom it alwayes fuses together
That is from elephants foot, raise your first layer up slightly.
what type of adhesion
I print on clean PEI.
so i have a tina2s and it won't let it move because it sticks to the seam line
Did you try a negative extra retraction distance? I would start at -.06mm.
How do you do that?
mine melted at the beginning on the swords and test print
I sounds like your first layer height too low.
My test print worked amazingly but I printed the whole sword and it didn’t work. I’m using Bambu P1P with Bambu slicer
Its probably a bed adhesion problem or little strings that you did not notice on the test print.
infill?
It does not make much difference, there his hardly any.
Its sticking together at the seam line what do i do my settings are default for creality ender 3
I don't have a ender 3 to give you exact instructions but there is a link to a troubleshooting guide in the description,
Hi, my printer printed the test piece perfectly not a hit of a seam or any sticking, so I brought the big model in and sliced and started printing, it fused all the way down the blades after a 15 hour print, so i printed the test pieces again and they printed perfectly, iv dismantled the printed blades and can see there's a ridge of fusing all the way down, I printed Concentric with the line width to .43. still a very nice model
I wonder if it has something to do with heat or cooling since the test print was fine. I would tune the seam as small as you can with the test print. What temperature material are you printing at? Maybe also try the lower end of the temperature allowed by the material.
my lines stuck together, what should i do
yes it is at the seam line how do I take it off my retraction settings are 5mm distance and 45ms speed
At the layer seam? Retraction settings.
so do i lower the layer change settings or do i set them higher?
hi im new to 3d printing and it looks like its fusing at the seamline. Is their a simple way to fix it?
These are layer change settings. Try adjusting things like; retraction distance and speed, coast, wipe, negative extra restart.
for some reason, every time I print it, fuses together at the seam line
These are layer change settings. Try adjusting things like; retraction distance and speed, coast, wipe, negative extra restart.
Did you figure this out? I am struggling with seam line fusing also!
bro the only thing it printing for me is the skirt of the print and thats it
Good point!
Make sure detect thin walls is checked, it's likely not seeing the first layer. (Happened to me when I first attempted to do this one on a .6 nozzle before watching the youtube troubleshooting video and learning about the exact widths of each piece.
Check your nozzle size/line width?
I am using creality slicer so what do i do for the settings
I cant really tell you what setting to use as I don't have your printer/slicer. I would just slice it as normal and see the results. Make sure the segments are not touching anywhere including the layer seam. Even little strings between seams can cause issues.
Nice benchy for the big one!
Anyone got any tips for printing this?
I change my setting every five mm or so and pick the one that results in the best layer seam.
for me, first layer width to 80%, did a full bed rectangle print before to level the bed, and it worked wounders