when I brought it to my slicer profile it didn't wanna print it as one solid piece (hilt and blades together) so I printed them separately and the hilt came out great but the blades keep fuzing together and I cant figure out what I'm doing wrong.
ll pieces come out of the hilt fine but then when i try to retract two of the pieces kept getting stuck and when i push it into the hilt the pommel comes flying off and out comes the blade. Ive tried sanding both blades but no luck at at. Pls help me
Love your collapsable swords so much! Wondering if it's normal for the sword to fairly easily get stuck extended to the point I end up breaking it trying to collapse it again. Perhaps there is a setting I can try to alleviate this some.
This seems to be the biggest sword I can print with the Prusa mk3s. Hope to get a larger printer someday for some of the others.
The layers do like to get locked together when extended. I normally hold the blade in one hand and smack the pommel straight down on a table to get it unstuck.
Yes, or 150% because .6mm/.4mm=1.5 or 150%. This way the walls of the sword blade will still be two line widths thick. I know some people have had luck with a .6, but the slicer is trying to make .4mm walls with a .6mm nozzle so it might not work as well.
If one fuses to me a cut it apart to figure out the cause then try to reprint it. Try tuning the layer seam on the test print, or you can always print the blades in vase mode.
when I try to print the blade portion in vase mode, even after I slice and remove the top and bottom layers the blade still comes out as solid (in the preview section, and even once I tried to actually print it was solid), should I just remove the infill or is there something I'm missing? I use Cura as a slicer if that helps. Also, when I printed blade #5 with no infill, at first it slid in good, but then got stuck. it might be because of the line thickness of either the handle or the blade, so if there are any other causes I'm all ears. other than that I might just run some tests and find the best settings for Concentric mode.
You need to set Top/Bottom Thickness to 0mm in Cura. That's what I did and the preview shows it hollow as intended. Also make sure to turn on "Spiralize Outer Contour". That's how you activate vase mode in Cura.
prusaslicer dosent let you leave top layer on when printing vase mode, also the first piece of the blade on 9.4 thickness likes to blob up on the sharp edge.
Not sure I understand but you can always flip the model over. No idea what is causing the blob if you are prints in vase mode. Maybe check your printer, belts, pulley set screws, ext...
im success print blade segment 1-5 in vase mode, and the hilt.
problem is with katana cap, spring mechanism not work, hard to push. any sugestion ? :D
thx u.
I had the same problem but when i looked some of my setting were still for the blades (line width to .94mm) so try resetting them to defalt then puttint them haw you need them
Discussions — Collapsing Katana with Curved Blade
on my slicker the single blades are not hollow so is it supposed to be like that?
Yes, so they can be printed in vase mode. See the troubleshooting guide, it goes into detail on this.
would i be able to get this through patrion
it said only 5 per month or do i get all thats here now
Currently its only on here, do you not want to join here?
when I brought it to my slicer profile it didn't wanna print it as one solid piece (hilt and blades together) so I printed them separately and the hilt came out great but the blades keep fuzing together and I cant figure out what I'm doing wrong.
You can find the troubleshooting page on my website or try printing the blades separately in vase mode.
ll pieces come out of the hilt fine but then when i try to retract two of the pieces kept getting stuck and when i push it into the hilt the pommel comes flying off and out comes the blade. Ive tried sanding both blades but no luck at at. Pls help me
Love your collapsable swords so much! Wondering if it's normal for the sword to fairly easily get stuck extended to the point I end up breaking it trying to collapse it again. Perhaps there is a setting I can try to alleviate this some.
This seems to be the biggest sword I can print with the Prusa mk3s. Hope to get a larger printer someday for some of the others.
The layers do like to get locked together when extended. I normally hold the blade in one hand and smack the pommel straight down on a table to get it unstuck.
What slicer do you use, prusa slicer will not allow you to print in vase mode with a top layer on
S3D, but just flip it over and use a big brim to keep it stable.
is it possible to get the step file? I want to make a few tweaks if that is okay.
Any suggestions for using a .6 nozzle?
Yes, or 150% because .6mm/.4mm=1.5 or 150%. This way the walls of the sword blade will still be two line widths thick. I know some people have had luck with a .6, but the slicer is trying to make .4mm walls with a .6mm nozzle so it might not work as well.
also wondering this, do you mean scale up by 50%?
Scale up to 1.5x's
the cap's spring function fused together, is there a way to fix this without printing a new one?
If one fuses to me a cut it apart to figure out the cause then try to reprint it. Try tuning the layer seam on the test print, or you can always print the blades in vase mode.
Thank you so much, my kids a superexcited with their new katana's.
when I try to print the blade portion in vase mode, even after I slice and remove the top and bottom layers the blade still comes out as solid (in the preview section, and even once I tried to actually print it was solid), should I just remove the infill or is there something I'm missing? I use Cura as a slicer if that helps. Also, when I printed blade #5 with no infill, at first it slid in good, but then got stuck. it might be because of the line thickness of either the handle or the blade, so if there are any other causes I'm all ears. other than that I might just run some tests and find the best settings for Concentric mode.
You need to set Top/Bottom Thickness to 0mm in Cura. That's what I did and the preview shows it hollow as intended. Also make sure to turn on "Spiralize Outer Contour". That's how you activate vase mode in Cura.
prusaslicer dosent let you leave top layer on when printing vase mode, also the first piece of the blade on 9.4 thickness likes to blob up on the sharp edge.
Not sure I understand but you can always flip the model over. No idea what is causing the blob if you are prints in vase mode. Maybe check your printer, belts, pulley set screws, ext...
when printing it concentric does the printer or slicer effect if the pieces fuse or not?
Yes, Slicer setting are important. Is it fusing at the seams or all the way around? First layer, or all layers?
When I go to the individual blades in prusa it says that the blade is filled in, what can I do?
if you select vase mode it will be hollow when sliced. Don't forget to turn on/off the correct top and bottom layers.
how do you put the vase mode one together
Any way to print in place?
The original is, but not the curved version.
im success print blade segment 1-5 in vase mode, and the hilt. problem is with katana cap, spring mechanism not work, hard to push. any sugestion ? :D thx u.
I had the same problem but when i looked some of my setting were still for the blades (line width to .94mm) so try resetting them to defalt then puttint them haw you need them
Hard to tell without more information, you could try turning down your extrusion multiplier a few percent.
your mum
why is it a zip not an stl
Just unzip the file file and it has multiple STL's in it
lol
How did you print a top layer on the sword tip in vase mode?
You just leave top layers on.